cruiser54

Sometimes I feel like we need a whole sub-forum to consolidate all the taillight threads we already have....... People can't find them. People talk about making them. People wanting to know what else would work. People hoarding them. People showing off aftermarket ones. People finding NOS ones. Make it the second sub-forum. Right above the technical one.

Or have yours welded while it's off.

Never mind the ground behind the taillight. Do this instead. And, do the dipstick tube stud and the braided strap at the firewall. No time at all to do. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 49 COMMENTS The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

One of the better British cars. Parts no issue.

So, I think A (light green with tracer) might be what you're looking for.

Have you done the ground refreshing and snugging up of intake fasteners along with replacing those pesky vacuum hoses at the intake?

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 49 COMMENTS The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

LOL.

Simple to check for vacuum leaks. don't need no smoke... At idle, spray carb cleaner on suspected areas. Idle will change immediately when you hit a vacuum leak.

Go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1 through 5.

Always!! Better yet, as a matter of maintenance, do Tips 1 through 5 at www.cruiser54.com

HUGE undertaking for no real benefit.

So, cleaning the CPS and it's connector did it? From Tip 7: "Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off."

If the pan is not leaking, do not remove it!! Just drain and fill with Dex/Merc. Buy a gallon. Have you adjusted the TV cable yet?

First off, I'm gonna have more questions than answers here. Fuel and no spark leads me to coil/dizzy area. But, I can't help but wonder if you bumped something during the ISC replacement. Pull the dizzy cap. See if the rotor is seated properly. Are the spark plugs wet? Of my Tips, which ones have you completed?

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 22 COMMENTS EDIT I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.

Yes. I love it.

I had one. It's expensive and has no way to see the level without opening it up. And then it leaked...... A new radiator is $120. Cheaper than the tank. $8 for a recovery bottle and some small line from the radiator neck to that tank and you're done.

check the intake and exhaust manifold fasteners to be sure they're snug. And check these hoses.

Go ahead and use it.

Pressure bottle and cap failure and no availability of good replacement parts.

NR2802 from Napa will go right in and give you open cooling system.

The bulb makes the switch hot to the touch.

My vote is pull the head, have it gone through or slap a good used one on and wait the year or two.