cruiser54

There will be connectors without mates depending on the equipment/options on the truck. If you want to post photos of the ones you're concerned about, after removing the obvious butt-connected crap, we'll see if we can help.

Don't worry about the connector and do Tip 28.

How noisy is the fuel pump? Even without a ballast resistor, my fuel pumps were not very loud. I'd be suspicious of the pump. Have you done the fuel pump ground upgrade?

Just an FYI. I had a heart attack on Friday shoveling snow. My wife drove me to the hospital in her 98 GC. No heart damage. They put a stent in an artery and I went back to work yesterday.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 51 COMMENTS The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

Why? Too much work for little or no gain. Put the motor in per the guide and carry on.

Good plan. The MAP line needs a thorough inspection. Long crank time is pretty standard. I'm concerned with your dizzy indexing still. Timing light has no bearing on this. It must be done only according to the instructions using a cut-away cap.

So, the steering column wasn't a Unicorn after all? Just a ham fisted PO.....

Great!! Here's another tip regarding fuel pumps: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 51 COMMENTS The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

Unibody? UniFRAME. There is a huge difference.

Just weld it. Make sure your engine and trans mounts are in good shape.

The one I had went quickly!! Post em up in the Classifieds. You should come up to Prescott with a Comanche and a few bucks. I got alot of stuff.......

Take the air cleaner box out.

Get the Volvo cap first.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 24 COMMENTS EDIT I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.

Time to spray around suspected areas with carb cleaner.

they didn't. It was a good car....for a year. Remember burping the cooling system!! We welded a funnel to a coolant cap just to avoid the aggravation repeatedly. 1.4 was a good engine. But they mounted the water pump up real high and when the level dropped in the cooling system, they cooked.

GTA was awesome!!

You could cut em to fit and paint them to match, I guess. Somebody needs to do a write-up on this.

Welcome. Hey, what year is your Jeep? What engine?

You need a diagram. Period.

Admit it. You loved those Renaults!!! Ever change the starter on an R5?

Moly chassis grease.