Strokermjcomanche

I failed to mention that I used the tailgate handle and just got longer bolts that way you wouldn't pull the bolts through the holes, if you got any questions just let me know.

I don't have any pictures but I took out the screws for the tailgate handle and made a bracket that I could attach a couple ratchet straps to, then I hooked them to the factory bed tiedowns and pulled it forward until it was straight.

So when they installed the window they used beutyl tape and held the window in with screws(it was a mess ) , probably the reason it was leaking and rotted out the floors . So after pulling the window I cleaned all the old crap out and got lucky as there was no rust . I used a rear window from my very first Comanche, the seal was ruined on this truck from the aftermarket slider so I had to use a spare seal I had . Its supposed to rain the next next few days , so if I have no leaks I will be able to install the interior.

They had just enough parts to make one more in 2009 .

Found the source of the water leak, time for a new back glass ( The correct one) . Surprisingly there's no rust there, I don't think they used urethane for the window.

This one ?

My guess is that the collar broke on the long bolt for the tensioner

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-steel-fuel-line-repair-kit-5-16-in-x-18-in-w-14mm-fitting-800-151/9110025-P 5/16 3/8 https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-160-Steel-Fuel-Line/dp/B002ESTPMU

I'm not at home to check, but I wonder if the GM fuel sending unit line would be correct. If so you can get those your doorman and I know they come and 18 in sections. even if the nut is a different thread you should be able to steal your old one or another nut for the correct style thread

Yes they are all supposed to have one, even if it's not power steering.

As much as I want , it's not going to happen . https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/227314391656556/?ref=browse_tab&search_query=Rooftop tent&tracking={"qid"%3A"6813159696437830005"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"2729760980453101"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A2729760980453101%2C\"target_type\"%3A0%2C\"primary_position\"%3A-1%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A0%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A503%2C\"value\"%3A0%2C\"upsell_type\"%3Anull}"}

Had to get mine out a couple weeks ago .

By advice would be go buy yourself a full service manual, preferably preferably one from a dealership

Keyparts pan fit really well for my MJ , way better than a c2c pan .

Underneath seam sealed ,epoxy primed ,and then chip guarded . It'll be painted body color too .

Other side welded , seam sealed and rust sealer /preventative paint applied.i'll try to get it's painted tomorrow. Then sound deadening.

The cable is probably sticking a bit, probably need to lube the cable or replace it

That got there quick!

Full console I'm guessing?

I've heard there are 3 of those currently in the NOS flavor

WJ has the same bolts for their control arms I believe ,some of the vans do ,there's a lot of vehicles that have the same bolts if you have a junkyard nearby . My yard normally gives them to me for free.

Sometimes the front crossmember has the Vin number stamped on it as well for another place to look. It'll be in between the bumper in the front of the crossmember generally towards the driver side,sometimes it hides behind that lower valance peace.

Have you looked for a build sheet that's normally hidden somewhere in the interior?

8mm hold the Ecu to the bracket and 10mm hold the bracket to the firewall

Thank you Ben