Pete M

what year is the harness from? be sure to include your truck's new specs in your signature

what the heck? all those problems fixed and still no change? just use it as an anchor and install one of these:

it was worth it

yup, if you want one that is both nice and cheap, then you need to be super diligent and maybe a bit lucky. It's just a fact that prices have gone up. (this can actually be seen as a good thing as more trucks and parts are being saved that would otherwise have been crushed, but it sucks when you're trying to get in to the hobby. ) Cali is one of the best places to be, as trucks that are very solid are far more plentiful than in the midwest and so don't carry as much value.

every single applicable fix (not all years have the same issues) from Cruiser needs to be done to every MJ so after you find the problem at hand, don't stop.

like, the very same day... this year?! congrats!

there is no way to control the timing (except for the CPS mod that ticks the computer and gives it a tiny bit of advance). like any modern FI system, the computer controls the timing for you and tweaks in in real-time for the best results. but computer failures are rare. more common is a simple sensor gone bad, fuel pumps, vacuum leaks, or wiring issues (grounds are a real problem). For example, the fuel pump grounds behind the taillight and corrosion there can cause all sorts of wonky things to happen. If you haven't yet, see the link in my signature and find Cruiser's MJ tips. most are wiring related.

hard to say as most guys seem to want the slider.

just to expand on the second bit, technically the timing can be "off" (for example if the distributor or timing belt is off a tooth) but you cannot tweak it a degree or two like older engines as the computer will always try to put it where it wants it.

there are sensor testing procedures in the link in my sig. timing is controlled by the computer.

welcome! be sure to add your truck's VIN number to the registry forum so we can find out the build date. being stuck on defrost usually indicates a vacuum leak and based on the photo of the inside of the dash I'd start looking there.

adjusting the caster is something you can do with basic tools and a bubble angle finder.

I assume the alignment shop gave you a printout of the end specs?

I love the swap-ability of chevy stuff. is that coolant hose as kinked as it looks in the pic?

I gotta ask since the knowledge of our old trucks seems to be getting rarer theses days, but does your alignment shop know HOW to adjust the caster? also, there is a thread i the link in my sig that will show you how to measure the ride height and compare to factory.

indeed. we had a similar day installing a ujoint into a junkyard front driveshaft for my buddy's f250 (his original shaft's CV joint was wasted) only to find out at the end of the day (and I mean the end of the day since our comical rust-fightin' hijinks took alllllll... stinkin'... day) that the shaft he bought was an inch too long. (turns out he grabbed one from a coil sprung 250)

noisy in what way? bushings gone bad? isolators worn out?

there's nothing wrong with 3k on the highway.

still rocking my older craftsman USA-made 1/4-3/8" sockets and wrench sets. overall they have been good to me. for 1/2" sockets I have a mix of harbor freight, Cobalt, and... miscellaneous. I super-seriously need to upgrade the 1/2" stuff but until then I just stop by lowes when I break one.

any muffler shop should be able to fab it up and route it wherever you'd like.

you can easily lock the CAD for free using one of a variety of methods. should be a couple of 'em in the link in my sig.

there's a chance I'd be driving "by" on the weekend of the 14-15th on the return trip from colorado.

that question deserves its own post in Tech.