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Awinski

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About Awinski

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    Can Spell Comanche

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  1. Thanks! This pic should help give reference. In all honesty it's more to help get an extra wide prp in there.
  2. Did some work this weekend. Took the tcase hump out as it's a 2wd truck anyway and gave myself some leg room. Made some fish plates for the rockers and tops of the frame rails. Then I made a rocker to rocker support bar and tied it into the top of the frame rails. This will all connect to the main hoop for the roll bar.
  3. Will be making my own, what I will decide on I'm not sure of, aluminum or fiber glass. Part of my did want to use the original bedsides with wide 60° trailer fenders front and rear, sort of like an early mustang Kyle look. Thanks man
  4. Got some new lights in the front. Used the truck to haul some wood with only minor tire rub. The comanche is sitting stagnant for a month while i finish the jk to sell. With these hot summer months I have no desire to drive it with no a/c anyways. I think I'm going to tear it a part again in order to make it even lower, remove the bed back half and use a set of hanneman bedsides then make my own fronts fenders. Truck will be about 4" off the ground to the frame when I'm said and done.
  5. Some more pics of the rear mounting. Those are 1&1/8 nuts welded to the frame with supports. Just locate axle and make mounts. Pretty simple stuff and I can change the ride height or geometry with spacers and longer bolts at any moment.
  6. Rear has two bolts in the x, two front bolts on the slop of the frame. If you look up the newer mustang irs on ebay you can see there are 4 vertical attachment points. It's that simple. Make some brake line adapters, and get a yoke made for a standard u joint and done. I'll try to remember to grab some pics tomorrow
  7. Handling is something that is definitely better but I havent really fine tuned it enough yet to know how hard I can take a corner. Definitely 100% better than stock lol. Rear axle is just 4 vertical bolts but I'll try to get some soon.
  8. So I got it bolted together and have been driving it so far this week. Drives great, minor bump steer but that's due to the extended tie rods (tie rods and arms have a different swing radius causing a minor toe change) it's very minor and only when one wheel hits a big bump, maybe 10° in the steering wheel. Should be fixed with inner tierod extensions that will be here this week. Realistically they should be 3" long but all that is readily available to me is 2". So I may have 3"ers machined eventually if it's still any bit noticeable. Other than that the cobra wheels have a 24-28mm offset, something in that area, and I'm on the high end for manual rack caster (3°). So I will be looking to move to a wheel with 40-45mm offset to make steering a bit easier, it's still "one hand-able" but I never need an excuse to buy a set of wheels.
  9. With a back injury plaguing me earlier this week I finally felt fit enough to go out to the garage again last night. Got the braces done and the suspension is ready for some cleaning and paint. Woot woot. Made a 3/16 plate to spread out the load on the bottom of the frame rail. Then 2x2 1/8" wall square tubing to tie everything together. This should add the most strength possible while keeping everything very light weight. While it most likely wouldnt be driveable in this event but it should hypothetically keep the crossmember from ripping off the frame in the event of a front end collision.
  10. solid axles i usually set up 7 or 8 for non steering assist, hydro assist 9-11
  11. Got the driver side control arm mount off. Man I am not looking forward to doing that on the passenger side... cold chisel has been my friend.
  12. so a lot of this being a good or bad thing depends on a few things. if youre a crawler, have a shorter drive shaft or have a large amount of droop it might be okay to have the upper longer. but if you want geometry to stay consistent at speed, have a good split travel (12" shock 6" up, 6"down), and have a nice long drive shaft that won't bind then having the upper a bit shorter is a good idea. if you're driving through whoops offroad or a back road at speed and you're getting constant caster and camber changes it's not going to be pretty. also if you're geometry changes through travel to be undesire-able this can be a huge minus if you ever change the ride height or something of the like. personally for me, i try to keep my uppers in the 80-90% length of the lowers, have 1/4" tire diameter separation at the axle, and 1-2" less at the frame, completely dependent on the desired setup. so in the end it's going to be whatever compromises you're comfortable with.
  13. Some times I forget most people don't build suspensions as a day job. Most of the mustang 2 stuff comes in around 58.5-60" wheel mounting surface, mine is 65". Either way whatever you decide to do ifs or solid axle always here to help a bit as I'm sure I'll be picking your brain when I eventually engine swap.
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