Blue XJ

I've had good luck with the parts store one I bought. Going on a decade with no issues, it was whatever autozone sells.

I'll agree with what was said, unless you going for a low dollar one and using the crank AND rods from a 258 so you can save a few hundred on the pistons needed. 12 years ago when I built mine, I used the 258 rods, now that there are pistons readily available to use with the 4.0 rods, I'll be getting a set of them to swap over. Better quench with a lower compression ratio, along with the normal benefits of using a longer rod.

Its the Stock Honcho Bumper and a 1:10 scale Warn Winch. I modified the bumper to clear the larger 2.2 tires i had orignally, but just went back to 1.9s... Are the krawlers in your pic the 2.2's? You wanna sell them? I have 2.2's now with losi rock claws, I'd like to change tires.

Where did you get the bumper, winch light combo from? That would look good on the front of mine. Image Not Found

Not with the TeraLow. He needs the correct one. It uses it's own front case half, input/planetary gears and whatnot else. So if it is the wrong version (23 spline) he's hooped, you can't just swap the input or whatever else. But as RockFrog says, if it's the 2.5L version it is 21 spline. I always forget about the 2.5L. Good catch. I stand corrected. I knew the planetaries were different, I didn't know it had its own input.

Yep, I loved that truck, never let me down and did everything I tried. It was rig of the month a few years ago too http://comancheclub.com/topic/42614-mjotm-april-2014-blue-xjs-88-longbed/?fromsearch=1

The YJ block is the same as an XJ block. Let me know if you need the mounts back off the old motor, I could toss them in a couple flat rate boxes for you. (Yes, I am on this site too, I'm all over the place lol)

I agree with the JD2 model 3. I used one to build my roll bar and cage, along with some rock rails. They might seem expensive at first, but I've bought 2 of them new and sold both when I was done using them. They are a very easy sell and I only lost maybe $50 on each one. The infinite 8 mounting base is nice so you can mount the bender in a corner out of the way. I got mine from someone on pirate, but I think swag sells them now.

1988, 4.7 Renix based stroker, AW4, 4.56's, 32" Bfg Muds - 14/19 city/highway Same combo with 35" Truxus MT's - 12/16 Same combo with 35" BFG Muds - 13/17 Same results with the 35's after switching to an AX15.

Worst case, you could always swap the guts from the YJ into the MJ case.

Don't buy a heater blower motor from them for an XJ/MJ either. The price is right and it works, but it is clocked different than the factory one and needs some modifications to fit.

I ran one in my XJ and then put it in my MJ. Beat the snot out of it with a stroker motor and 35's with an ARB. I never had a single issue, I did upgrade to chromolly shafts after a few years, just for piece of mind.

That looks like it hurt.

If you already have all of those parts, how do you figure it will cost $5k+ to build the stroker? I bought EVERYTHING when I built mine, including a second engine to tear apart and I 'only' had $3500 into mine. Based on your post you just need some pistons, bearings and gaskets and have everything else.

a 4.7 stroker and an ax15 are a fun way to go. I originally had the motor with an AW4 and switched it to an AX15. Ton's of fun to drive and plenty of power with 4.56's and 35's.

I had a flowmaster 40 deltaflow on mine for over a decade, sounded good I thought.

I have a stroker in my 88 MJ. It's using the Renix wiring and sensors still, even though I built it from a different year. What do you need to know? Take out the old crank and rods, put in new for a basic one. Take everything out of the block, get the machining done and put in all new for a high dollar one. I assembled mine myself, with parts and machine work I had about $3500 into it, obviously not a cheap one, but it can be done cheaper. I replaced just about everything with quality parts, including the ridiculously expensive fuel pressure regulator from Hesco. With 35's and 4.56 gears I could roast the crap out of my tires if I tried. And my mileage stayed about the same as when it was a stock motor.

I have the Novak cable setup on mine, no complaints at all. Easy to install and adjust, has worked fine for 3 or 4 years now.

I get all mine from Dynotech up here in SE Michigan. They do a lot of NASCAR work as well, so I'm sure they ship them out too.

I run Bilstein 5150's and love them. They aren't adjustable, but the calving seems just right. I'm going on 10 years with them and they still look brand new.

Costco and Sam's has 4 foot LED shop lights for $35. They are worth every penny.

Or some wider tires. My 13.5" wide cheater slicks handle 500 horse 3500 rpm launches all day without any traction issues,

If you like wine, head east another hour from the falls and go to Niagra on the Lake. Tons of wineries and samples to get along with a lot of little shops.

Or a complete axle out of a 4 cylinder. It'll get you 4.10's already, and if the components are in decent shape, you'd be further ahead. Most of the junk yards around here only charge $100-150 for a complete front axle, cheaper than getting yours regeared if you find one with 4.10's already.

I grabbed a set of axles from a 2.5 auto XJ years ago. It was a D30/D35 combo with 4.56's.