Blue XJ

Didn't really take any pictures along the way honestly. Not sure why I didn't, I took hundreds while building the MJ, but none really of the Duster.

72 Duster, Fuel Injected 440, TCI Streetfighter 727 Trans, 8 3/4 sure grip with 3.91's, 315/35r17 out back and 225's up front. Complete QA1 front suspension, SS springs out back with Race Car Dynamic tuned Bilstein shocks and disc brakes at all corner. Puts about 375 to the wheel and runs 11's.

Thanks

We design and build what's in the background of my pic in the other thread!

I'm working still, apparently I am an essential employee to keep all of you guys safe! If we need to use the product that I work on in our country, we are screwed!

Mine had 147k before I built the stroker. That one had about 35k on it before it wiped a cam lobe and ate a lifter.

Thanks, I thought those were Matchbox cars you had in them, not 1:24 scale! They might be too big for my intended purpose then, but I'll still take a look at them

For anyone that has ordered these, have they shrunk when washed? I'm in between getting a large and having it fit until I wash it, or getting an XL and having it to big until I wash it, assuming they shrink.

Mine is easy, I used to own a Blue XJ when I created most of my online forum names, when I sold it and built the Green MJ, everyone already knew my Blue XJ name, so I just left it. I have the same name on non automotive forums as well.

Are those individual shelving units for the cars? If so, where did you get them? I could use one or two of them as well.

My other toy that I have in front of two toys that I play with at work. 72 Duster 440, 727, 8 3/4

Drivers side fender tube is cut? Probably to get the steering box bolts out, I think I had that tube too close to the bolt to get a socket on it, but it was a new box so I didn't care. The guy put a 4.0 in it and was disappointed in the power compared to the stroker it had, so he attempted to put a 305 in it and then a 355, neither of which ever got finished. I still have 2 tubes in my garage to go from the rear tube flares to the back bumper which would eliminate the bottom portion of the bed back there and create an armor slider to protect the bed.

Glad to see my baby being brought back to life. The guy who bought it from me sure did a number to it, it only lasted a week or two after I sold it until it never ran again. I have no idea how you will get a dash in there with the cage in place, it blocked the old dash pretty good, I wasn't able to open the glove box more than a couple inches even. Does all the primer mean that the rust was taken care of? The cab corners were getting pretty rough when I got rid of it.

What write-up is needed? All of the wiring connections are listed in my first post

So $30 with no bids (interest) in it?

I picked up a Samsung 300gb solid state drive for $100 a few weeks back during Amazon Prime days. It's amazing how cheap things have gotten.

The DRB that I just sold worked with the OBD 1 and Remix systems, you just swap the cartridge that is in it.

You should be able to set different resolutions. I run 3 monitors with my laptop on win7 at work, they are all different sizes running different resolution. The question would be, does it support the correct aspect ratio, go into the graphics properties and see if there is an option that matches the tv resolution (??? x 1080)

How could the tires turn while on the tow dolly? Did you have the ignition on to unlock the steering column? I don't think you do that on a tow dolly, only needed when flat towing.

I technically had one of those too. I replaced the dash in it with one from an XJ. So the dash had an XJ VIN and the rest of the truck had an MJ VIN.

I have been running a Champion brand aluminum radiator in my big block Duster for 3 or 4 years, it keeps the monster motor at 180 just fine regardless of outside temp. I'd buy another one based off my current experience.

I have a Reese one that looks very similar. I have no complaints with it, that style can be a little difficult to connect because it is rigid, but it's not too hard. If it was going to get a lot of use, I would say get a self centering one. If it's occasional use, that will work fine. Make sure to get magnetic tow lights and 4 safety chains as well. The HF magnetic tow lights didn't work for me. They both blinked when I turned my signal on, and the brake light portion worked for about 300 miles, then quit working. Edit: Even after the Jeep lost traction and pulled me into a ditch on the side of the road, the tow bar held up fine, no damage to anything, and everything stayed connected. It is this bar, I went with Reese because it is a big name brand and only a few dollar more than the no name brand one. (which is probably built by the same company) https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-7014200-Adjustable-Tow/dp/B001IH6W7O

My Comanche was a numbers non matching 1 of 1 with that VIN. That's pretty rare.

We used to backpack all the time and had a tent small enough to carry on our back. Now that kids came along, we've upgraded a little to this... Didn't get out as much as we wanted to this year, but we have a few more trips planned.

You're giving them too much credit I think. I'd say there's a 50% chance any given Dorman product will even fit, and then if it does I'd give it a 20% chance of it lasting more than a year. I'd take my chances on untested junkyard parts rather than new Dorman junk. Unless they just take "failed" OEM NSSes, clean them out, and sell them as new. And even then I'm sure Dorman would find a way to screw it up. I've never understood why there would ever be a need to replace an AW4 NSS under any normal circumstances. They look intimidating enough but it's just a set of contacts on a wiper. Just clean it out every so often and you're golden. I've never, ever seen one failed, just full of crud. For $5 a pop I completely understand why people would buy them just to have, but I've never seen where someone's actually needed to replace one. They're made in Taiwan. The reason many folks replace them is that they break them taking them off. X2. I cleaned mine a few times, the last time I tried, it broke taking it off. I bypassed it with a wire and drove without backup lights for 9 years until I switched to a manual trans.