Blue XJ

You would need the inner axle seals. They are located at the diff housing, you have to pull the carrier to replace them. I don't have a part number handy, but very parts store I have ever been to has had them in stock.

I've ran front only locked, rear only locked, both auto locked and both with selectable. If you were just going to do 1, I would throw a lunch box in the front axle and call it good. I noticed more traction with just the front locked than I did with just the rear locked. Plus there is no concern about it on the street then either. Although now that I have two ARBs I find I usually only lock the rear. I get too much traction with the front lock and have a hard time turning the steering wheel on certain terrain. That's with a spool though, not an autolocker.

I built mine out of 1/4" angle, but I have my front suspension and crossmember mounted to them. I would say that 10 ga would be thick enough unless you are really beating them up pretty good.

I always use my wedding ring. If I do it fast enough, it looks like I peeled the top off with just fingers.

Not sure if it's that low of a CG, but it's 35's that measure 36" on 6" spring with lots of trimming. Image Not Found

That's a driveshaft ujoint, external clip style. I always thought you couldn't run circle clips unless you ran aftermarket shafts. I will say I haven't broke a ujoint since switching to the full circle clips, I used to break at least one per year before that. I only run Spicer 760's.

It's a disconnect front axle that year. The longer shafts are the later 1 piece design. You can use the 1 piece shaft in it, but you need to get the conversion seal for it. There is no seal in the diff for that side, it's in the disconnect housing.

He's talking a 1300 rpm difference though. If he doesn't realize that he is going 10+ mph faster/slower than he thinks he is going, there are other issues to address.

A speedometer gear is not going to change the tach reading, it will only adjust your speed.

I use Hagerty for a few of my vehicles, they also have a stated value that it is insured for. They don't require it to be parked in a garage, but it raises your rate if it's not. They also state the vehicle cannot be used for a 'daily driver' or running all of your errands. Mostly because it's insured as a classic through them. They allow it to be driven to more than just shows and parades though, you pick the annual mileage you'll need. But to be honest, in 5 years they've never checked to make sure I only drive the mileage I say I do.

I used a piece of 1" square tube between the floor and seat slider frame to raise mine an inch. I ended up welding it in place though, since the stock studs weren't long enough. I just welded new studs to the square tube and welded the tube to the floor.

I built my front bumper myself about 12 years ago. I used 1/4" plate for the winch cradle portion and the frame tie ins, the rest is 1/8" plate. I think the differences are the sides, I had mine extending back further to match the old style fenders, but the first time off road with it, the tires caught the bumper and bent them down.

Mine did not come pre-assembled, I needed a few friends over to help with it.

They would work with a lot of custom fabrication, the rear would just need a new set of spring perches, the front will need all new brackets. You would need new wheels as well, since they have a different bolt pattern.

From the A pillar back I like it. A pillar forward, not so much.

Something like this would probably be the easiest. http://liquidironindustries.com/XJ-Front-Frame-Plating-kit.html

If you want to swap to disks, find a Grand (ZJ) with rear disks in the junkyard and grab all of the brake hardware. They had Dana 35's with disk brakes. You'll want the proportioning valve from under the hood as well.

I'm interested in this as well. I had song bed tonneau cover installed, but now that I built a roll bar, I'm not sure what to do.

I think that's how mine goes. I've never really paid attention to it. It shouldn't need to read below 500, since the engine doesn't go that slow.

Lay under the front end and have your wife yaw the steering wheel back and forth. Look at each and every joint/connection and look for movement between the two parts. If anything is loose or worn out, you should be able to see it.

Axle to draglink sounds correct. However, if you noticed an improvement after replacing it, you might have something else wearing out. If everything is tight and solid on the front end, you shouldn't even need one. I haven't ran a stabilizer for almost 10 years now. I have no shimmy in the steering wheel, no bump steer and it tracks perfectly straight if I let go of the wheel.

I ended up buying the universal Antirock kit to put a swaybar back under mine. Best move I ever made. Works great on the road, and you don't have to disconnect it to go offroad.

I would have them done at the same time. That way the brakes will only need to be bled once. If they end up looking too long at first, you could always ziptie them out of the way until you get the lift on.

I think mine is right around 750-800 rpm. 4.0 (4.7 stroker) AX15 (used to be AW4)

Looks like the tail lights are good. Arent they going for about that same price on eBay? You could get tail lights and a roll bar at least.