Blue XJ

X2, what did it take to get it to work? Edit: I went ahead and ordered it, not the cheapest for a tcase shifter, but I figured I have welder, I can get it to work one way or another.

I made the same one a few years ago to mount my ARB switches. Works good takes a little hacking up of the console,if the switches are deep, or have a lot of wires.

X2, 7" is too narrow to run a 33" tire, unless they are the skinny ones BFG has.

I have a set of the Rough Country 4" round LED lights, I would recommend them. $100 and they put out a ton of light.

Looks like a non c clip axle to me. No place for yhe clip to go. Sounds like you didnt tighten the bearing retainer bolts enough. Edit: looks like everyone already stated what I put, i should have read the whole thing first.

Never really added it up but I probably have ~$18,000 into mine. Jeep was $50, engine was $3500, front axke $5000+, rear axle $2200, trans swap $1500, tcase $500, tires and wheels $1500, plus all the odds and ends, lights, switches, winch, on board air, roll cage, tube flares, roll bar, (plus the price of the bender and welder to make that stuff). It adds up fast, but its been over 10 years.

I picked up a 23 spline input for mine on another forum for $50 shipped. There is a change to the case in 94 i think, there is a thick and thin input bearing design, make sure you get a gear that matches yours.

Same here but with a stroker.

I didn't have much luck reusing existing stuff when I swapped mine. I ended up making my own circuit that reverses the polarity with a couple relays.

You don't need a welder. I just bolted the new latch to the body using the old bolt, its been workimg fine for 5+ years now

I have a set of 4" LED fog lights on mine. They are way too bright to use on road,I almost wish I kept the KC's I had on there.

I ran RE springs for a while but felt they were too soft, I had to add spacers when I put my winch on to prevent it from bottoming out. I've ran Rock Krawler coils for about a decade now with no complaints. For shocks I would recommend Bilstien 5150's.

I have a set of vent visors on mine. They work to add airflow and thats about it. Best way to eliminate the leakes is to put the fixed windows in. Or upgrade to 97+ XJ doors and eliminate them altogether.

I'm glad I made my own, the Rusty's ones are ugly. I'm not bashing them as a company either, I've ran many of their products with no issues.

I'd probably be in for a set for a LWB, or even a SWB if you only made one, I could always weld more metal on myself.

I like your idea for the t-case. Can that handle be adapted to work with the stock 231 handle?

No it won't, the 89 has a 21 spline input, the 99 has a 23 spline input, also, the outputs are a different style for the rear driveshaft.

Use a jack and raise the front up until it sits how you want it to, then measure how much you lifted it, that is the size of spacer that you need.

I'm not sure if they still sell them, but I went with Alcan springs for the rear of mine. I bought them separate from the lift, but they are spring under lift springs for the Comanche.

It could be that, it could also be a faulty and/or dirty/sticky IAC on the throttle body.

I swapped from an auto to a AX15 out of a 98XJ. I ended up using the clutch for a 98XJ, the flywheel for my year Jeep, so the crank sensor worked, and the master and slave from a 94XJ, since it was an external setup and the master packaged under the hood.

The 249 in 97 and 98 Grands has a locking viscous coupler, that locks the front and rear together in 4 low. The viscous coupling goes bad after a time and is VERY expensive to replace. That is why a lot of 249s get replaced with a 242 when (not if) it goes bad. I understand that, and I don't disagree, I was just commenting that there is a locking version of the 249 out there. I would never put one in anything I owned though.

I thought it was to keep the leaves out of the gutters?

Where are you located? I think i have a solid rear window in my shed still. Its yours if your local.

I'm not sure, it was from a TJ though, actually a bearing too, had needle bearings in it, not just a bronze bushing. My crank had two diameter pilots on the rear, I used the bearing that fit in the larger outer one. You know what, disregard my post, I have a stroker, I'm running a 258 crank.