Hiroler

I'm still trying to get the old O2 sensor off. I made this video of my vacuum test for exhaust restriction. I think the exhaust is fine it's at 20 with high RPM and when I let off it hits 25 then goes right back down to... whatever 15-18. I'm going to fix some vacuum lines tomorrow. Notice my MAP line T's into the hose that comes over the valve cover and into the intake manifold. I'll separate them and put MAP back on the throttle body. I notice at 65mph on the highway when it gets into overdrive and struggles/ vibrates hard, the vent air shuts off. Also I'm getting 14.5 mpg. Thanks for following.

Thanks for your help Cruiser. I replaced the plugs and wires recently. The distributor internals are a bit older but I'm getting good spark on my inline spark tester. I'm not sure about the oxygen sensor, I don't think I replaced that. I suppose I can go that way next.

I have pulse to each injector. I installed the 746's today. 311k miles and the original injectors were hard to remove. Broke a bolt on the fuel rail too. The 746 injectors made the idle consistently "ok" rather than going between bad and terrible, but I still have the same problem. For the first time ever, the oil pressure gauge started working today. If it reads right, it's a little low 20-30 range. I'm stumped. Everything is clean. I guess it has to be a strange timing issue. I'll have to learn how to index the distributor and adjust the CPS. I don't understand how the fuel pump could have triggered that. I did screw up the CPS when I dropped the transmission, but that was a year ago. I'd pay someone who is good with the renix in the DMV area to work on this. Any takers!? Just to clarify the truck drives great. When it gets bogged down, prior to downshifting, it bucks and kicks. Going downhill or at low speeds it drives great.

Oh and yes I have 31/39psi at the rail....

My issues started with a fuel pump hose falling off. Replaced pump, filter, plugs wires. Runs, but rough now. Disconnecting #1 and #3 injectors doesn't affect idle.. but they both measure 16 ohms. The connector EV1 female harness side on #1 is missing a side, obviously needs replaced. Could that be my whole problem? I didn't understand the manual where it said to run 12v test lamp over them while cranking. I tested while running and they had various voltages. The truck has 300k+ miles and the injectors say "26" on the side of them. I've gone through a lot of cruser's tips, but this really started with a hose coming off the fuel pump. I haven't done C101 yet, looks like someone has had that apart in the past. I've had truck 4 years and no unusual issues. Thanks!!! Kyle

Following up - this fix worked for 500 miles but I had to replace the starter since it wasn't grabbing right anymore. The noise came back at 1k miles and grew worse so we actually pulled the transmission. Wow, what a job. New flex plate and it's quiet now, except for a small starter grind at startup. The next owner will have a much easier time getting the transmission out if needed. Those bolts had been on there for 28 years, 300k miles.

I'm waiting to borrow a fuel gauge but I expect there to be an injector issue since wiggling the #2 injector wire bogs the engine down. I checked all the easy things like MAP which previously gave me issues until I made a vacuum line T into the manifold. IAC is clean and CPS is new. I am a bit curious about that camstaft sensor in the distributor, since it runs like it has a heavy cam. Truck has 312k miles and one foot in the grave. It's got vacuum leaks and a broken exhaust manifold bolt but besides high idle the truck has run great for 3.5 years. My issue seems directly related to the fuel pump incident and I will say that the new fuel pump is loud too.

I'm following this thread. I had only a shudder or two before a hose fell off my fuel pump (1988). Now with a new fuel pump/filter etc it's gotten worse. Any chance you're near me (20904) in MD and we can go through the pain together? I am leaning towards an electrical issue on mine.

This was a nice thread to stumble upon while diagnosing my same issue. Anyone in DC/MD want to work on my '88 renix ?? :doh: It ran awesome until it shut off on I-695 & wouldn't restart. One of the hoses fell off the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, and distributor cap. Its drivable but jerks badly under any low-RPM stress. I'm running fuel system cleaner through and it's getting better - not bad at all in "Power" transmission mode. I found a couple vacuum leaks which lowered the RPM but the engine still runs like I've got a heavy cam and shudders a little bit under stress in any gear. I noticed that if I wiggle the injector #2 green wire, the engine bogged down. I suppose this could end up being a C101 connector type of electrical issue. Looking for a fuel pressure gauge now. OH HAPPY DAY!

This is what's left. I'll put a new shaft and brakes on this weekend after I get a chance to pull it apart.

I just AAA'd it 75 miles to my family's shop in PA and took an Uber to get my other Jeep. Since I was technically still on 695, the tow only took 15 minutes. The whole ordeal was very quick. I'm trying to picture how this happens. I had replaced the bearings on the driver's side, but not this side.

The google machine says up until 91 they were non c-clip, but this appears to not be the case. That's why I put it in 4wd and even tried to keep going in case it was just a driveshaft issue. I never thought about the rear axle.

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I was driving on 695 this morning and lost power. For a second I thought it was the transmission, then I pulled over, put it in 4wd to exit the highway, and soon after my rear wheel passed me. I thought '88 was a year of non-c clip dana 35? Is it possible for this to happen to a non c clip rear?