Blue XJ

He is drilling holes in the track bar bracket not the frame.

Based on those two boxes, I'd say Moog and Precision are the same part.

I used to have one that looked like a manual's knob, you just had to push it down to get it out of park. I doubt I have any pictures of it, but an eBay search would probably bring up a lot.

I may have to go pick one of those up. Looks nice!

Mines an 88 but my tcase and instrument panel are from a 90.

This is the one I bought http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Y-924-Speedometer-Cable/dp/B005UKZCZI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MHHH3PW8FJGMMH5RF34 The speedometer end on it doens't match the picture, but the end that is actually on it appears to be a much more robust design. Mine is a 4x4. I had cruise control, but it didn't work, I ended up having to get the non cruise cable, since I needed the part going to the speedometer. This one works great. Edit: I see you ordered one. Sorry I was late with the link.

x2 Drill a lot of holes in the rubber and you should be able to knock it out.

You should be able to do a Google search for Comanche speedometer cable and find one. I think the one I bought was for a 90 Cherokee and it fit fine

I just bought a replacement online. I'm pretty sure I got it from Amazon. You either need the cruise or non cruise control version. They only sell the t case side of the cable if you have the cruise version, nobody makes the short piece. I think I paid less than $20 for it.

I used the ZJ hoses but I made new hardlines from the splitter blockthing too. The old lines weren't looking all that good and I figured it was a good time to spend $15 to replace them. Disregard my comment about the parking brake. I am using ZJ cables, but I also hav a console/parking brake handle from an XJ installed. So my lengths would be a lot different then a normal MJ's.

What disc conversion are you using? I used ZJ hoses and parking brake cables on mine.

I have a set of these on my bumper, they are almost too bright! http://www.roughcountry.com/4-inch-led-round-lights-70004.html They have a square version too if you wanted square http://www.roughcountry.com/2-inch-led-square-lights-70003-1.html For the price, they are well worth the money, the light output is pure white and really bright.

I had the JD2 on a home made stand using an Infinite8 mounting plate. I was able to mount it in the corner of the garage and then just pull the pin on the mounting plate to rotate everything when the tube was swinging around. It made it so I was able to always have it mounted to the floor and it never got in the way. http://www.swagoffroad.com/Infinite-8-Tube-Bender-Mounting-Plate_p_44.html

As long as its thick you should be ok. I just used synthetic wheel bearing grease.

The storage box was actually a box to mount a CD changer. The top compartment held the changer, you had to knock the back of it out for the wiring to pass through. The bottom was a storage cubby.

I had a JD2 as well, I have no complaints using it. I bent hundreds of bends with 1.5" HREW and DOM with it and had no issues. Just get a good grease for the follower, makes it easier and doesn't beat up the bender.

Mine stopped the leak, they have different seals out there, I think it was a dual lip seal that I bought. It has a second lip in it that rides on a new piece of metal so it stops the leak. A lot of times the seal ends up wearing a groove in the crankshaft and if you just replace the seal, it doesn't fix the leak because the groove is still there. With the double lip seal, it rides in a different spot on the crank.

That's my process as well.

HREW bends a little easier than DOM, but I never really noticed that much of a difference, My JD2 would bend either with no issue. If it's just for a hoop on the bumper, you can probably get away with pipe. Just know the application you'll be using your Jeep for, if you'll ever rely on this part to keep you from seriously getting hurt, use tube.

Sounds like a neutral safety switch iissue. Check the switch on the clutch.

If the pinion on the 8.25 is a different length it will change the geometry. I don't remember from when I did the switch, but it should get you close enough. Id tack it, toss it under the truck and measure your pinion to driveshaft angle to confirm.

I'd take it apart and clean it. It definitely sounds like an issue with the NSS.

I used the biggest pair of vice grips I could find on mine and had to hit them with a hammer to get it loose. Thanks for the reminder, I forgot to order a replacement plug.

Looks just like the Toyota trucks that broke in half

Neutral safety switch on the trans mount unhooked? Or the clutch safety on the clutch pedal?