Blue XJ

Nice writeup, I'll have to give this a try. It'll come in handy when using my on board air.

95-96 XJ swap is PnP for the 91-92 models. For PnP on a Renix you have to use the 91+ brake switch and splice some wires. I think if you retain the Renix switch you must grind the brake rod flat to make contact, but I haven't done a Renix model swap. I have a 95XJ booster in my Renix MJ. I ended up just getting brake light switch from a 95 and making a bracket to mount it. I always had issues with a sticky switch when I tried to reuse the Renix one.

I welded a piece of angle iron on my frame to act as another cross member. In the middle I drilled a hole and welded a big nut to it. I lay the tire down in the bed so it is aligned with the crossmember I added (attached to the frame, under the bed) and then I run a bolt down through the rim into the nut on the crossmember. Just make sure to keep the correct size socket in your truck to unbolt the tire.

Mine has the buckets out oy my old 90 Cherokee Laredo 2 door. I had to make my own brackets to mount them, but they are extremely comfortable.

Just a comment about SOA or not. I am running 6.5" SUA springs on mine with an extended shackle. The ride quality is actually much nicer than I expected once I put qood quality shocks on it. I ran cheap Gabriels that fit for a while and it rode like a dump truck, not I have Bilstein 5125's out back, and it rides almost as good as stock in my opinion. So I wouldn't worry too much about ride quality if you remain spring under.

Thanks for the offer, but I got looking around online last night and found a 155mm Howiter can for $22, so I ordered a few. The sad part is, I have probably 500 of them at work sitting in a scrap pile, but I can't take any of them.

I have a smaller 50 cal can bolted down in the bed that I keep my air chuck, air hose, and other air tool supplies that I use with my on board air in. Then when I go 4wheeling I have 2 20mm cans that I put in the bed, one has all of my recovery gear in it. (winch remote, snatch block, shackles, tow strap, tree saver and gloves) and the other one gets all of the spare parts and fluids. (ujoints, tie rod ends, pieces of hose, misc. nuts and bolts, oil, trans fluid, steering fluid, brake fluid) And then of course I have a few in the house filled with ammo. I'd like to get a couple spare 105 cans, or mortar cans. I could put my spare axles shafts and driveshaft in them. Would be an easy way to secure that stuff in the bed.

Thanks, I've always had plans to bob the bed, I think when I last measured I could remove about 15" from the rear without a lot of work. I just never got around to it, and then I painted it, so it was too late. I'll have to replace my cab corners this summer, so maybe I'll bob it then, since I'll have to repaint it anyway.

They sure are pretty close, they could be brothers! Not quite the same spot, but I can make that climb in the XJ. Image Not Found The MJ is a little too long to make it...(There might be a bed bob in the future though) Image Not Found

I'm married. Part of our tax return went to a new trans for the Jeep, a case of ammo and some go fast goodies for the wife's hotrod. As long as momma's car gets some attention, we have no issues. And the rest of it went to daycare for the kiddo.

Shoulda bought the 29 spline version instead and upgrades shafts as well. Its almost like free money, may as well spend all of it!!!

I always liked this one too... Image Not Found

A few from the Badlands.... Image Not Found Image Not Found And a not so poser.... Image Not Found

Distributor hold down broke and shot the dizzy out of the block. A screw driver and a ratchet strap was all I needed to get it home.

X2. The best depends on your budget. You can upgrade to 760x joints as well as long as there is clearance for the c-clip.

If it kills your battery, you need a bigger/better battery. Mine is wired directly to my battery and causes no issues.

What sized tires? Doesn't matter for mismatched ratios, just asking. I have 4.56's with 35's and I wish they were deeper.

If they aren't too wide and you have a welder, I don't see why they wouldn't work.

Take off your Mutli-Function / Turn Signal / Hazard / Call it w/e you want switch, And run your brake switch straight to pin #14 I had the same issue ages ago, Took me a ton of searching to figure this out How is re-doing the back lights, easier then running a single cable two feet into an empty pinout? O.o I didn't say it was easier. Just another option. Plus he would maintain a functioning brake light on both sides as well as a turn signal this way.

I did mine the easy way and separated the bulbs in the back. I have one bulb for brake and one for turn now.

I think you are correct.

Torx head shouldered 7/16" fine thread bolts. Good luck finding replacement ones in a store, maybe McMaster sells them, but make sure you get the correct grade.

To do 4.5" lift I had to straighten the hard lines to get enough length.

For 3" of lift I would just do YJ lines. I ran them at 4.5" with no issue, you can straighten the hard line on the frame for a little more length too.

I like the idea of this kit, I think I'll pick one up. My shifter has given me issues for years. Thanks for the pics, and I'll follow your build thread for additional ones.