Blue XJ

You could always make your own with about 25 feet of tubing and some sheet metal. Image Not Found

Thats how I did mine, put a really big tack in each of the 4 corners of the spring perch, carefully drove it to make sure there where no vibes, then burned them in solid on inside and out of the perch.

I welded two tabs to my axle that the shock mounts between. They are centered on the tube, if I remember ill take a pic

Any idea where to get the speeding gears now? The dealer by me said the long gear that we need is no longer orderable. I've been looking for one for a while.

You could always make your own like I did Image Not Found

Speedo cable goes to the transfer case, not the trans.

That was my first thought too.

I had about the same done plus reconditioning the rods, and installing the pistons on the rods, I think it was about $1400

I get about the same as I did before the swap. About 15 city and 17 highway, but I am not light in the pedal at all. This is with a 4.7, 35's and 4.56 gears.

It is a 3/8-16 bolt, I think its like 1 or 1.25" long.

I used implement paint on mine, nice and cheap ($40 a gallon at Tractor Supply Company) and easy to spray. I added some hardener to it as well, its pretty solid and seems to be holding up good.

Thanks. :cheers: It has a new windshield and some dents now, but still looks about the same.

Yes, because any complete jeep you buy for $500 is going to have ball joints that are in better shape than your current ones.

Just rent the one at the parts store. Every store around here rents them, its like a $100 deposit, but you get it all back when you return it, just make sure to ask what their time limit is.

Don't take the hub nut off, just remove the three hub bolts on the back and pull the hub out with the shaft still attached. Press the upper joint out first, then the press 'bolt' can go through the upper ball joint hole when doing the bottom one. I've done them quite a few times (about 8) they aren't that bad, first time will probably take a good 4-5 hours to do all 4.

I agree. I have the 5150's on the front and 5125's on the rear. Rides great.

10 seconds is pretty quick to get on the trailer, but either way, it only takes 1 revolution to bend a rod because there is water in the cylinder.

6.5" RK coils and 3 link with 6" Alcan SUA leafs Image Not Found Image Not Found

I regeared to 4.56 when I had 33's. Now that I have 35's I really wish I went with 4.88's. I have an 8.25 as well, so its not an easy option. I thought I read somewhere that recently someone came out with a 4.88 out there for the 8.25, but I never looked into it myself I have a 4.7 stroker with an aw4.

this is exactly how I was thinking of doing it in my head. I'm already sold on this. Maybe when I get around to it I'll post a write up. Hopefully this makes sense to you, its what I came up with on mine. Its been two years and everything is still working just fine... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19567&start=0 Make sure you cut the wires I mentioned, or else it'll pop fuses when you hit the lock button.

x2 I created the entire wire harness for them, it wasn't too bad if you know wiring. I think I posted the pin out on here a few years ago, the harness I made just needed 2 power supplies and a ground for everything to work. I can't comment on the glove box not opening, since it hits my cage before the door. Image Not Found

X2. I've had mine on and off several times and never used the tool, never had a leak either.

There are numerous members here who have bought rust free running MJs for $500 or less. I have bought 3 so far. They are out there. MJs are not all that hard to find. You just have to get out of the rust belt. I agree, I bought the cab and frame for mine for $50, the cab was rust free.

I have 6" springs with plenty of sag and 35's fit fine. You might need to trim a little more, or flatten the weld seam in the wheels wells so they don't catch the tire. Longer bumpstops are a good idea too.

Filled up for $3.09 around home, drove 175 miles north and filled up for $3.39