Blue XJ

x2 definately grab the axles if the price is right. my buddy just bought a set for his TJ and ther dealer has recently raised the price to almost $5k for the pair. They are pretty stout axles (D44 version) and would be a good swap for a D30/D35 You would need new wheels though, and possibly 16" ones to clear the brakes, not sure if 15's fit.

If your interested in running a winch on the stock bumper as well, you could go this route too http://www.detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php

That is not death wobble. If you've ever had death wobble, you'll know it. The wheel will rip from your hands and your life will flash before your eyes. I do agree with the other things to check though. Whenever I have a wobble its usually a bad ball joint or loose/worn track bar at the axle end. I almost wonder if its possible for a ujoint to bind when the wheel is turned, causing a vibration? :dunno:

The regular price was $129 and I had a 20% coupon so I paid just a little bit over $100. Will definately pay for iteself as I'm doing ujoints again this weekend. Had a wheel bearing pressed a few weekends back which ran $17 at the shop. Almost forgot, it was the 12 ton model shown here http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-sho ... 33497.html I picked up the 12 ton one a few months ago for $70 with a super coupon. It sure has come in handy.

I would leave the rear how it is, and lock the front. I have had locked front / open rear, open front / locked rear, and locked front and rear. The biggest noticeable improvement was the front locker. I ran just an Aussie up front for quite a few years and really enjoyed it. I did not enjoy having a lunch box in the rear, so I switched to a selectable. Of course now I have no complaints with front and rear arb's, but its not cheap. The best bang for the buck is a $250 aussie up front.

They are always for sale on vehicles being parted out up here. I have a few sets in the garage, but they all have a future for them so I can't part with them.

I wasn't planning on using the ECU or the IP, I have a full set of aftermarket Autometer gauges to use for the gauge cluster. I'm thinking I can strip down the new dash of most of its wires and only hook up the applicable ones, like the headlight switch, hvac controls and the electrical switches. Am I wrong thinking I can leave my current XJ wiring intact, and just hook up these new components to replace the old ones?

I picked up the dash out of a 99 XJ and had a few questions. I currently have a cage inside the jeep, which makes me hesitant to do the swap in the first place, since I'll have to cut it out and redo most of it. My big question is what all is needed? I have the dash, but do not have the steering column yet, or the heater/AC box. Is it necessary to pickup the newer style heater box assembly, or are they interchangeable? If they are interchangeable, is it straight forward to hookup the HVAC controls from the new dash to the old heater box assembly? Also, what wiring needs to be done? I won't be using the new style IP, I have a full set of autometer gauges to use, so I won't need that wiring. The only thing I can think of needing in terms of wiring is the courtesy lights, and the center stack electrical for the switches and lights.

I built my stroker about 4 years ago. I have just under $3,000 into it. About $1300 of that is the machine work that I had done. The only parts that I reused were the block, head, valve cover, oil pan and front cover. All the other components, including the valve train were replaced.

I used 1.5" for mine. I bought the interior portion of the cage from D&C Extreme. It is a good starting point, but its their XJ cage, so the front half still needs a little modification done. I added some extra tube to it. To tie it in, the rear portion of it lands right over the 'frame rails' and I used 1/8" steel for feet plates. The front bars come down and have 1/8" feet plates as well. Then under the truck, I used another foot plate against the floor, and dropped a piece of tube down to the support arm of my rock rails. I don't have any good pics online Then for the roll bar portion of it, I attached the down bars to my rock rails. And then the rear down bars go through the wheel wells down to the frame.

x2, has worked for me every time too.

I bought mine when I realized my XJ's suspension mounts started rusting out. I wanted a change and came across an MJ for $50. There wasn't much to it, but I tore the XJ down completely and used all the parts to build the MJ. Before: After:

x2 on their customer service. i had my rear pinion nut on the t-case loosen up about a year after my sye install. It tore apart the speedo sleeve on the output shaft. One quick phone call and he had everything I needed, plus a few extra parts, including a new speedo gear (that are discontinued at the dealer) to get my speedo working again. They were all at my porch about 14 hours after my phone call.

Did you scuff up the paint? I was thinking about doing this and haven't decided if I want to do the brush on Herc, or the spray on U-Pol Raptor liner. The Raptor liner seems to ge better reviews, since it seems to stick better. Maybe its just more forgiving about the prep work. Looks good though.

They had the connectors with o-rings on the shelf at the Napa by my house. I think they wanted $12 each for them.

living the good life.... Image Not Found

I have the Autopal housings with an HID conversion. The lights are insanely bright, but the autopal housings could be better. They have a decent cutoff, but there are a few stray beams that get thrown rather high off to the left, which end up right in oncoming traffics eyes. The Hella ones are probably worth the extra $20.

just make sure that the new steering stabilizer isn't just hiding the wobble. a lot of people replace the stabilizer and think they fixed all their problems, when in reality they just masked it.

how tall are they? i wonder if it would fit on my roll bar in the bed.

Are they new doors, or did you just swap the mirrors? (sorry if you answered this already) Got any pics of the strikers on the door jamb for the new doors? Also, what part number did you use for the blinker relay?

I think mine are alcans, they hold weight pretty good, had a half a yard of dirt in the bed the other day and it barely sagged. they flex fairly well offroad too, but ride a little stiff, i think its mostly the shocks.

my car came with mobil 1 0w40 in it since new. my last oil change was after 5k miles, i drained out just under 3 quarts of oil, its supposed to have 5 in it. :eek: I'd say even with 25k miles on the car, its burning some oil. :shake:

Its never given me a problem, but now that it has a body on it, I might have to limit the travel somehow. I think what I have in the picture below is all that it should ever need. Although, I used it up north this weekend, there were a few times where the rear axle was horizontal and the front was vertical and it pulled me through the obstacle. :rotf: Image Not Found Image Not Found

I have a tube chassis for my crawler, so there are no mounting provisions for the body. But here is the body painted and resting on top of the truck Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I'm not sure what to do for tire clearance, I'm going to trim the body some, but this crawler has pretty extreme travel. Image Not Found And this is what I modeled it after for the paint scheme... Image Not Found

Well, the body showed up in the mail today, but I don't have time to play with it. I'm going to paint it to match my old Cherokee that I had. The body fits my AX10 perfectly, but I have converted to a tube buggy chassis, looks like I might have to convert back to the original frame to get it to fit. I'll snap some pics on Monday when I am back in town.