Blue XJ

Remove the old headlights Install new housings that accept H4 bulbs Insert HID bulbs into housings Mount ballast to fenderwell Plug old headlight harness into ballast plug new ballast harness into HID bulbs. Its really that simple, took no more than a half hour and its the best upgrade you can do for lighting. I can turn my 100 watt KC's on and barely notice them when my headlights are on. check out the link I posted, he has comparison pics.

No. The strikers are in a different spot. Other than that and the wiring, they will bolt right up.

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Its 1.5" .120 wall DOM for the exterior portion of the cage, the interior cage is 1.5" .120 wall HREW. I picked up a JD2 Model 3 bender a few months ago to use for this. This is my first project with it. I thought about converting to air over hydro, but its really not that bad to bend it by hand.

Thanks. I finished it up today, got everything fully welded and painted. I have to add a couple braces down to the frame still though. Image Not Found

the best way to check it is using the FSM and an ohm meter. There are charts for the Renix sensors that show their resistance output based on what they are measuring, its really the easiest way to check to see if the sensors are functioning properly.

I worked on my cage some more, got my bed hoop bent up and ready to install. Now I just need to make some down bars for it that tie into the wheel wells, then down to the frame.

Air temp sensor should be in your intake manifold. Mine is rearward of the throttle body and has 2 black wires coming out of it. Mines a 4.0 manifold though.

Based on the display, the air temp shouldn't be reading -40F. I would check the connector on that sensor, it should be reading close to ambient temp when first started and it will warm up as the engine warms up. If the TPS only reads up to 7%, I would say its bad. It should be close to 0 at closed throttle and greater than ~75% when at wide open, with a smooth transition throughout the range.

A 1018 code should mean no serial data on the serial data circuit. No clue what that means though. edit: here is all of them http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/jeep.shtml

Maybe its the automotive engineer in me, but unlike the rest of you (from the sounds of it) I would want my front bumper to buckle if I hit something. I'd much rather have the front bumper crush instead of being a solid hit and me taking all of the abuse, or even the front frame rails right behind where the bumper mounts. Is cheaper to buy another ~$400 bumper than have to fix buckled frame rails, or busted up knee caps when you slide into the dash. just my $.02 and I do like the look of that bumper, it reminds me of the old BPI front bumper, but I don't think they are around anymore.

Here are the pics.... Image Not Found Image Not Found The box sits about 5" above the rail and there is about 6" of clearance between the bottom of the box and the bed. The only thing I noticed so far is my 19" plastic tool box doesn't past the opening because of the linkage for the latches. Once its past that, it would fit just fine. And here is my little helper..

x2 looks a lot better now

They have their SUV boxes on sale too actually. I went tonight and picked one up. It fits good one the width, the lower body of the box could probably be about 6" wider and still fit between the rails though. There is some room underneath it too. The sides aren't tapered in like mentioned above, its completely squared off in the corners. I'll snap a few pics in the daylight tomorrow once I secure it to the bed. Either way, it was worth it for $83 out the door.

Thanks for checking into the dimension for me. I was about to grab my phone and go call the store actually. The 12" deep part is a little tight. I have the long bed, so I'd be able to go a bit wider than that and still have decent bed space. Maybe tomorrow I'll head to the store and check it out in person. I'd like there to be a little space under it if possible too, that way I can still slide lumber under it and get the full length of the bed for it.

I think shipping would kill the deal, considering I can get the new one for less than $100

I picked up the Warn locking hub conversion for my D30 for a heck of a deal from a guy local to me. It seems like a decent kit, it makes the weak point the axle hub, so hopefully no more broken ujoints/shafts. I have only broke 1 hub so far, but for $40 its cheaper to replace than the axle shaft. However, if I didn't get the deal that I did, I wouldn't have spent the money on that kit. I had other issues that led me to wanting manual hubs. And just to brag a little. I picked up a D30 with 4.56's, ARB, warn alloy shafts, warn hub conversion kit, 760 ujoints, an extra set of brake rotors and braided brake lines for $700!!! :D

For your headlight upgrade, I would recommend getting in touch with this guy http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=152560 and buying the HID kit from him. I had him install them on my MJ a few months ago, by far the BEST $125 I have ever spent on any modification. These lights are true HID's and make the lights on my 08 Caliber look nasty yellow. They install in about 20 minutes as well, with no cutting or splicing.

Thanks for the links, those were a little more than I was wanting to spend though. Thats the main reason for looking at the one at Lowes, the price is right. I'm mostly undecided since I have a tonneau cover on it now, not sure which one I would rather have. I like having stuff in the bed and nobody knowing its there. I'd probably end up making a locking spare tire mount for the bed if I went with the box.

I'm not a fan of the taper either, i don't know the exact measurement, I'll have to go and look at it. The fullsize box says its 70" wide, and this one is supposed to fit for rangers and trucks that size, so I assume its the correct with for an MJ.

I noticed in the Lowes ad today that they have their compact truck box on sale for $98. My neighbor works there, so I could get another 20% off. Anybody use this box? Is it worth it for the price, or is it fairly flimsy? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none

I run the RK 3 link kit on the front of mine. I have had it for about 4 years now with over 10k miles on it. I haven't had a problem yet, the only time I had any sort of wobble was when my ball joints were worn out, I haven't ran a steering stabilizer since i installed it either. Also, I found it a lot cheaper than the price listed above. I bought the 3 arms, joints and frame mounts for about $300 from DC4WD.com, but then again, this was a while ago when I got it. I also picked up their track bar to have the complete setup.

Thats what I don't get. I didn't change anything, other than the tires and it knocked it down 4mpg, oh well. I don't drive it much.

I went with a Rock Crusher cover from jasin over at jeepinoutfitters. Its a ncie looking cover, the fill plug is pretty high, so just watch how much fluid you put it, it will fill up the tubes before it over flows out of the fill hole. I think I added an extra 1/2 quart to mine, just for a little more oil. http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts ... oduct=1518

With my stroker, 4.56's and 32" BFG's I was getting about the same, 17 city, 21-22 highway. Now that I have 35" Truxus, I am down to about 15 city, 17 highway.