Blue XJ

Shop around, I just got an ARB online for $700 shipped, brand new, and the shop I went to wanted $200 for labor to install and setup the gears. My buddy went to the same place, he paid about $2250 for front and rear ARB's and 4.56's gears including parts and labor.

Not an expert, but I have a 29 spline 8.25 in my truck, I swapped it into my XJ when I had it too. I picked up a Powertrax NoSlip for it originally, then grabbed some ZJ disc brakes from a D35 at the junkyard. The brakes swapped right over except for needing to enlarge a couple holes on the caliper brackets. Never had a problem with stock shafts when I had 33's. I upgraded to 35's now, so I grabbed a set of Alloy USA shafts pretty cheap, and my pinion bearing went out, so I switched to an ARB when I got new bearings/gears installed. I have ran Yukon gears, they ended up getting a lot of gear whine after a few years. I just had some Precision gears installed, haven't ran them yet, so no comment. I do have my old Powertrax No Slip if your interested in it. There is no carrier break for this axle either, just if you go to 4.56 gears you have to grind off 1/2 of a tooth to install the cross pin in the carrier.

I picked up the factory LWB gas tank skid for $50 including the gas tank and sender. Keep looking online or in junk yards, you'll find one eventually.

Can you show me where to buy new cab corners and a left bed side to fix my smashed in one that I have now?

exactly. unless you stay on the main trail, body damage will be a guarantee. its a good place to go with ATVs, though. I've been there several times and not gotten any body damage. But I don't wheel a long assed MJ either. yeah, you get by in something short. i will never take my MJ there. x2 the XJ I was in got beat up fairly good there. You 'might' be able to get by with a SWB MJ and not smash it up, but you wouldn't be having the fun you could be having if you didn't have to worry about sheet metal. There were a lot of spots to get high centered as well, unless you were running some huge tires. my MJ also will not be going there, I don't care too much about body damage, but there would be a lot when I got done with the good trails there.

I think its better to remove the top portion like in the pictures than part of the front and rear faces. If you remove part of the face, when the gear comes around and tries to make contact with the pinion there wouldn't be material there for it to contact. The ring gear might 'slip' a little until it makes contact, then when the next tooth comes around it might not mesh properly. If that makes sense.

I guess you could, but it depends on how the ring gear bolts on. This one required that tooth to be removed, since it lined up directly with the cross pin. I am pretty sure they sell notched cross pins as well, but I don't think they are as strong. edit: here's the pin http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-80-0278-1/

I've had good luck with the Mr Clean Magic Erasers as well.

Here are the pics of the tooth that needs to be ground down to fit the cross pin into the carrier. These are Yukon 4.56 gears on a stock carrier. Image Not Found Image Not FoundImage Not Found Image Not Found My last set of 4.56's needed to have a little more material ground off to get the pin past, they were also Yukons.

When you guys are running 30 spline for the front, what are you using for the diff? I am assuming the 30 spline ARB that is out? Is there any other lockers that use 30 splines in the D30 now? I haven't looked into it for a few years.

I don't git it either but we're obviously missing something. I've read it has to be done on several diff builds and on least two gear manufactorers web sites. All I can figure is it has to do with properly setting up tha ring and pinion gears. I think they have to be set up before you can install tha spider gears or a locker. Its a c-clip axle. You have to put the shafts in to get the c clips in, which means the carrier needs to be installed in the axle at that time, so the gear has to go on it first. I forgot to take a picture today, :doh: I'll snap one tomorrow for you. :thumbsup:

I'm running Alloy USA shafts in the rear axle on mine and Warn Alloy shafts in the front axle. The warns are rather pricey, but I haven't had any problems yet. Just make sure whatever you get is machined to accept a 760x ujoint with a full circle clip.

For the cross pin issue.... Even with 4.56 gears you have to grind down a couple teeth on the ring gear to get the cross pin installed. The gear set is rather thick and it blocks access to the hole in the carrier. I have a set of previously installed 4.56 gears sitting on my work bench, I'll grab a pic of the ground gears for you tomorrow.

I'd look around a bit. I just bought a set of Precision 4.56's for a decent price. I haven't looked for anything deeper lately, but I know when i regeared originally a few years ago, 4.56 was the deepest you can go in the 8.25, you might not be able to go to 4.88's

x2 definitely the best way to go, i've used one plenty of times, they work great.

Uhh...probably not a 1350. It is probably a 1310 but intended for a NON CV front driveline. Heating and plasting it with penetrant is the best bet to get it off. x2, if i'm not mistaken, YJ's didn't run a CV shaft up front, they just had ones with ujoints on both ends. More than likely the yoke is meant to accept a ujoint, with either a strap kit or a ubolt kit, causing it to not line up.

I would check the wire going to the oil pressure sender, if thats good, it wouldn't hurt to replace the sender, they are pretty cheap.

1.)Jeepcomj 2.)Cdn Glenwood 3.)pingpong (with bed sides if possible) 4.)88pioneer 5.)dakal 6.)Raoden83 7.)DJM/78 8.)possum 9.)Jpnjim (either style/bedside preferred) 10.)johnnyc 11.)Jeepcomj (set number two) 12.)jimoshel 13)89eliminator 14) Cracker 15) Cracker (set number two) 16) Blue XJ

I guess it was overdrive, whatever your in when the shifter is in 'drive'. I'm taking it out to upgrade to an ARB. I toasted another pinion bearing, so I figured while the carrier is out and the gears are getting reset, I might as well upgrade. Now I have ARB's front and rear. I'll let you know when its available, I can't do gears myself, so the axle is at my buddies shop, he should have it done next week sometime. I'm not sure what a used Powertrax is worth, but I was looking for like $325 or so.

I ran an Aussie in the front axle for a few years, never had an issue with it. It worked great and was pretty reasonably priced too.

I like my ARB's, but they are not cheap.

thats what I have and I think it sounds real good on my stroker.

I'd go 4.56. I ran a 4.0/AW4 with 32" BFG's and 4.56's, plenty of power, at 70 I think I was right at 2500rpm on the motor. It didn't hurt my mileage either, was still getting 19+ on the highway. If you could wait another week or two, I will have a Powertrax NoSlip out of my 8.25 for sale. I'm swapping it out for an ARB nd will be looking to sell the old one.

If your in 2wd and the front axle is disconnected at the CAD, the locker will remain locked and the inner shaft on the passenger side will spin together with the driver side. there will still be differential action between the two halves of the disconnect shafts while turning. Also, with a CAD when in 2wd with an open diff, your front driveshaft will not spin, or at least only minimally due to friction. When you put a locker in the front end, it will spin the carrier, which will cause the front driveshaft to spin. When I put a lunchbox locker in the front of mine, I had to find a replacement front driveshaft, since my old one was worn out, and now that it spun, it gave me vibrations. It might not become a problem for you, just figured I would mention it.