Blue XJ

Mine came with the original rear bumper, but I took it off and built my own. The original one is just sitting in my shed now.

Thank you, unfortunately it doesn't go back far enough. Does anyone know how far back those checks can go? I need to go back to the early 90's I think. x2 I picked up an 80 the other day and am wondering if there is a way to get the history on somethign that old.

My fiance just got back from an Alaskan cruise, she had an amazing time and the pictures were unbelievable. She and her mom even got a private tour of sitka from a fellow comanche owner.

I have been there a few times, and have known these guys for a while, they do make all of their stuff in house. They started out small and are still rather small, just with big sales and good products. They probably stuck with what made them money, and got rid of what didn't, from a business stand point it makes perfect sense. Why put tons of R&D money into something that won't sell.

I picked one up this morning, if you read the reviews on amazon its a pretty basic unit and fairly slow to process a dvd or use the menu features. Sounds about right for what I want, the simpler the better, all that other stuff is just one more thing to go wrong.

You don't need overhaulin to do that, thats what mine has, it didn't cost that much.

good find, I have been looking for an XJ body for a while. I emailed pro line about 6 months ago, they said they didn't plan on creating one. I just ordered one along with bumpers for my 1:10 crawler that I have. :cheers:

yup, looks to be the RE1600 track bar, I think the replacement heim is like $43, at least it was when I bought one years ago.

I ordered the adapter from Summitracing. it slips over the smaller tube, to make it the same size as the larger one, so the larger hose works on both. I think it was <$10.

hope this pic helps for lifting locations

swing by pontiac steel for some tube and the party store for some beer, and we can bend up a set some weekend. here are the pics from further away as requested

thanks for the comments, the tube is easy enough to bend up, since I wrote all the angles down, but the sheet metal would be specific to each vehicle I think, depending on where your rock rail is, or how dented your fender is. I'll snap a few pics from further away this afternoon. :thumbsup:

I realized that I needed some tire coverage since whenever I have the window down, I ge covered with whatever I drive through. I looked around and determined that I had trimmed too much sheet metal off the fenders to use any aftermarket flares, so I decided to make my own. I used 1.5" DOM tubing (since I had leftover from my cage build) and 20 gage sheet metal. Here is the 'frame' of the flare bent up and tacked in place It attaches to my bumper mounts at the front, and it is bolted to them so I am still able to remove my bumper. And welded to my rock rail in the rear. fully welded, decided to move them up just a little to help with the gap at the top here they are finished with the sheet metal welded on. it is fully welded on both sides and ground somewhat smooth. I used a very little amount of spot putty to smooth the seam out where needed. Image Not Found Image Not Found Still need to do the other side. I have the flare bent up, just need to get around to welding it in place.

I guess I was the 1 person that bought the long bed sliders, they have held up good, I even tied my roll bar into them as well as my tube fenders I am working on.

7 slot chrome is my choice

They get easier once you learn some tricks. I can swap mine out in about an hour now, I think the first one took about 4 hours. 9/16 and 1/2" ratchet wrenches should be all you need to get everything off and back on, if you unhook the exhaust you'll need something for that too.

My fiance bought me one of those, btu the back says, "If you don't check them, I will". I wear it when we go to the bar,

I'm sure it would look fine, but I doubt that Rustoleum stone look paint is very chip resistance, or would work as well as bedliner.

On my 90, I took the body side of the harness and connected the black wire with white stripe to ground. No backup lights, but everything works just as it did before.

Mine is a LWB, but I had 4 32's and 4 35's in the bed with no issues.

I used a small spade connector and a piece of wire and grounded the correct pin on the NSS harness. I can go outside and figure out what pin it is if you need. I actually ran it inside the cab to a switch, so I have a kill switch on it now.

I'm running a similar setup, its not really cross over though, its inverted 'T'. I've had good luck with it, but if you don't get a poly spacer under the right tierod the steering will roll when you turn which results in a dead spot in the center of the wheel when you go back and forth. you can kind of see it here, mine is also over the knuckle for more clearance Image Not Found

Here's mine, its mostly 1/8" plate, except the winch cradle area is all 1/4". It ties into all the steering box bolts as well as the large one behind that. Image Not Found

Located in Southeast Michigan http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=165962

Whats wrong with Detroit in March? Its supposed to be almost 60 all week and dry. There is a ton to do and we can celebrate St. Pattys day just as good as anywhere else.