Blue XJ

The 297 and 760 were interchangeable, the 260 is the smaller size that he would need if its a stock axle. They didn't switch to the 297 size in XJ's until 96. However, most ABS equipped D30's did get the 297 sized shafts regardless of year I believe.

I just bought grade 8 studs and welded them to the bottom of the bed in the old bolt locations then used regular nut on the bottoms of them.

The top two bolts are E12's. The easiest way to get to them is to lower the back of the trans enough that you can access them from the engine compartment.

I stared at it in the garage for a while today. Trying to decide if I want to finish putting the front axle together or not. I'll probably wait till the weekend.

I ran an aussie in my front axle for a few years, no complaints at all about it. I know plenty of other people running them too and have never had an issue.

yup, i have them on mine, 10x better than the old smaller ones. they bolt right on

Yup, and believe it or not, I have a D30 with FACTORY 4.56 gears in it. Apparently there were a few 4 cylinder automatic XJ's built in 1987 that got 4.56's stock, and I grabbed one from the junkyard! :D

I picked up a velcro style one for an MJ about a year ago. It seems to be holding up just fine Image Not Found

I had a posi lok a while back, it had a 'T' handle on it to activate, twist the handle and pull. Just for people that don't know, its not really a locker. It replaces the vacuum actuator in your front axle, so you can manually control the engagement of the passenger side axle shaft collar. You can also pick up a used 1 piece passenger side shaft and the $25 Warn block off kit that comes with the correct axle seal to eliminate it completely. Or make your own. I installed 2 seals about 5 years ago and it hasn't started leaking yet.

I have an AX10 as well and a nitro 4wd buggy. No pics of the nitro one, but here is the ax-10, no action shots, but here is a couple posers Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

yup, its safe

I would measure the axle that your current ones are at, and install the new ones at the same angle, assuming you aren't changing your ride height at the same time.

here's the pictures that were requested... There isn't much room between the bed and the cab, but it fits. There is a little section at the bottom of the bed that needs to be clearanced, I just used a little prybar and pushed it out of the way a little. Here is a pic showing the notch I had to make in the top of the bed. Its not the prettiest, but I plan on making a plate that wraps around the tube and then welds to the top of the bed to help tie it in more. Here is the clearance between the tube and the body. There is probably anywhere from 1/8" - 1/2" of clearance to the bed depending on the location and about 3/16" to the body in most spots. The bed is on the left, and the cab is on the right. The bottom is welded to my rock rail, which is welded to the frame. I plan on adding a diaganol brace to help triangulate the rock rail for more strength as well. Here is the foot plate to the wheel well Here is the tie in that goes from the foot plate to the frame, had I thought about the tie in sooner, I could have made the down bar longer and cut a hole in the wheel well and tied it in directly to the frame. If you want a specific picture, let me know and I can go snap one.

Mine makes the same ticking noise after I shut it down. It usually does it more if the motor is still cool when I shut it off. Its been doing it since i built the stroker 10k miles ago, I'm not gonna worry about it, unless it changes.

A couple poser shots of my old XJ the ramp at the Badlands: the rock in my buddies yard (for reference, I'm 6'3")

Not the best, but its the only time I have wheeled it so far Image Not Found Image Not Found

Sure thing, if you can wait a couple days I will snap some this weekend. There is not much clearance between the cab and bed at all. Its pretty tight against both of them near the bottom. I'm still trying to decide if its worth it to tie it into the internal cage as well, and if so, how to do that, since both 'cages' are rather tight against the body already. It took about a 12' piece for that hoop and I think just over 4' for each down bar. I can measure if you want as well, actually, I think I have my note sheet somewhere still that shows the angles of all the bends on the b-hoop as well. :thumbsup:

I bet they sell for the same price as JCR is gonna sell these for.

I agree, the thick tube does look better, but what's funny is his, being DOM, is probably stronger than all of the ones made from 3" "exhaust pipe". Blue XJ, I like how you ran the tube between the bed and cab. I have a couple questions though. Do you have any cross support between the bars? Being that tall, some extra support would be a good idea, maybe an "X". Also, are there any rubbing problems as the frame flexes? I've been working on a cage/roll bar design myself, but I want to lose as little bed room as possible. This may just be a solution :hmm: EDIT: I just saw you had a full interior cage, guess the cross support isn't a big deal in your case :cheers: I think it looks just fine with 1.5" and other than Pete's, I'm sure its stronger than any of the other ones on here. I built it for a purpose, plus, I'm not a fan of the big tube look either, too bulky and would interfere with my truck box. I do not have a cross bar between them on the outside. However, there is a matching b-pillar hoop on the inside of the cab and it does have a seat belt bar going across from side to side. I don't have any rubbing issues, at least none that I can tell. Its welded to my rock rails which are welded to the frame, and the down bars get tied into a piece under the bed that is welded to the frame, its pretty solid. I had to notch the top of the bed side to fit the tube between the cab and bed, and near the bottom, it needed to be 'massaged' with a pry bar to add a little clearance. I can get pictures if needed. Anything bigger than 1.5" would need a good bit of sheet metal clearancing on the lower portion of the bed, since it gets tighter to the cab.

looks good. off topic, but what did it take to get the anti rock to work on the front?

LWB, home built roll bar. 1.5" .120 wall DOM tubing Image Not Found

All I did when I put my cowl hood on was redrill the hole that the prop rod goes in so the hood doesn't open as far.

those are what i have, but mine are 2 piece ones Image Not Found

Everyone of mine snapped when I took my bed off. I cut them all flush with the bottom side of the bed to clean them up. I then bought 3/8" grade 8 bolts, cut the heads off, and welded them in place on the bed, acting as 8 new studs. A couple were a little crooked, but they worked just fine.

4wheelparts was offering 10% off on ARB's a few weeks ago when I bought mine from them. :cheers: