Blue XJ

i leave it in comfort all the time, i never really notice any difference.

yup. i took my xj with 6" springs and unbolted the control arms, wheeled the axle out from under it and put it under the mj and bolted the control arms back in.

Be careful with what spray adhesive you use, most of them say do not use for automotive headliners.

Thats what my next mission is, to find a set of the switches from a 2 door.

I updated the first post with the wiring that I used. There are some wires in each door that weren't used, I just cut them short and taped them off.

I've bought all mine from ACE hardware. Just a standard grade 8 1/2" bolt and nut.

I bought the harbor freight tire changer when it was on sale for $40. The thing works great, I have probably mounted/dismounted 50 tires with it, never had a problem.

I bought headliner material from JoAnne Fabric and recovered mine. Clean the old stuff off as good as you can, then clean the board, and using headliner adhesive, attach the new one.

THANK YOU!! Your spot on, that's a good read!! LOTS of great ideas from his build!! Now there is a guy who can weld!! PURE CANDY!! CW Here is the original version of his build thread, its a VERY long read though, lots of talking along the way, like 61 pages worth. lol http://jeepin.net/forum/showthread.php?t=42186 Cool guy, I bought my MJ gas tank and skid from him, and his brother used to live a few miles away from me, we wheeled quite a few times together. (me and his brother)

x2 on the smaller rear doors.

Well, I got the door locks to work tonight. Its actually pretty simple once you realize what the door switch circuit does. Its actually a ground switch instead of a power switch. I plan on making a wiring schematic for it this weekend and posting it here. I'm going to try and get the mirrors wired up as well.

I went out and played with it tonight. The windows are working properly and I got 1 door to lock, but now it won't unlock or re-lock. My relay harness works perfect, energize one relay it provides +12v, energize the other relay is provides -12v. I just need to get it working with the stock door switch and I'll be all set. I thought I had it wired how the FSM showed, but I guess it was wrong since it didn't work. I'll give it another go tomorrow. Its close if I got one door to lock, I'm just missing something simple I think.

Not the best pic, buts hard to get all of it in one shot Image Not Found

Well, I looked at it while at work today and I think I found out how to wire yup the relay circuit so the door locks work. And I think I can use the same circuit for the windows, it switches the polarity coming out of the relays to reverse the motors. I think I need to put a couple diodes in the circuit and I should be able to hook both door switches to the same circuit for the locks without backing everything. I'm going to try it this weekend. If it works, I'll do a full write up with a wiring diagram and pictures. :cheers:

here's just about about every one out there. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

Good deal, thanks. I read the JP one, but they leave out all the important stuff. I'll give him a pm thanks.

I put my console in today, it fit good, I didn't use the rear bracket, but I'll fab something up for it, it kind of moves around more than I want. To fill the gap at the front to the old dash I think I'll make a little panel to hold my ARB switches, should finish it off nicely.

I downloaded that last night, It has what I need in it, but I can't figure it out. Its a little more confusing that what I can figure out, I'm definately not an electrical person.

I tore into the doors today using the pinouts listed above. The main thing that is confusing me now is the door lock relay circuit, I can't find any info on it. Anyone recall seeing this before?

I found the pin out of the connectors from JP's website, they did a very lacking write up on the swap. MODERN DOOR SWAP Driver (left) 8-way Cavity Circuit Gauge Color Description 1 P71 20 YL Left power mirror (up) 2 P76 20 OR/YL Left power mirror (down/right) 3 M1 18 PK Fused ignition b (+) 4 P74 20 DB Right power mirror (right) 5 Z1 12 BK Ground 6 P75 20 DB/WT Left power mirror (right) 7 P72 20 YL/BK Right power mirror (up) 8 O1 14 YL Master switch window lock out Driver (left) door Cavity Circuit Gauge Color Description 1 Q28 14 DB/WT Master switch to right rear motor (down) 2 Q18 14 GY/BK Master switch to right rear motor (up) 3 Q16 14 BR/WT Master switch to right front window motor (up) 4 Q17 14 DB/VT Master switch to left rear motor (up) 5 Q11 16 LB Master switch to left front motor (up) 6 Q26 14 VT/WT Master switch to right front motor (down) 7 P35 18 OR/VT Master switch to power door lock relay 8 Z1 12 BK Ground 9 F81 12 TN Master switch to power feed (switched positive) 10 Q27 14 RD/BK Master switch to left rear motor (down) 11 P36 18 PK/VT Master switch to power door unlock relay 12 Q21 16 WT Master switch left front motor Passenger (right) 8-way Cavity Circuit Gauge Color Description 1 P59 20 LB/RD Remote keyless entry lock control 2 P55 20 DB Remote keyless entry unlock control 3 P35 20 OR/VT Power door lock relay 4 F81 12 TN Power window switch feed (switched positive) 5 F35 16 RD Power door lock relay feed 6 Z1 12 BK Ground 7 P36 18 PK/VT Power door unlock relay 8 G26 20 LB Door ajar key in Passenger (right) door Cavity Circuit Gauge Color Description 1 P34 16 PK/BK Power door lock (unlock) 2 Q22 16 VT Right front power window motor (down) 3 Q26 14 VT/WT Master switch right front window motor (down) 4 Q16 14 BR/WT Master switch right front window motor (up) 5 P33 18 OR/BK Power door lock (lock) 6 7 8 9 Q12 16 BR Right front power window motor (up) 10 Q1 14 YL Master switch window lock out 11 12

I picked up a set of 99 doors with power windows locks mirrors and heated mirrors. I am going to be swapping them onto my 88 MJ with manual doors right now. I spent a few hours in the garage with the FSM and figured out the wiring. You have to create a relay circuit that reverses polarity. I will sketch up what I did and post it later, but here is the wiring. I'll made it a nicer schematic later, but for now, here's the connections. In order to get it to work properly, I had to cut the pink/black and orange/black wires on the passenger door that ran from the lock motor to the passenger switch. Its pin 1 and 5 in the large connector. If you don't cut these two wires, it will pop a fuse every time the door lock is tried. And for the relay, here is the pin out, I'll make a diagram when I get time. Any other wires in the doors were not used. The drivers door has extra wires for the rear door windows. And the passenger door has extra wires for the remote keyless entry (RKE) module that I did not use.

I was thinking it was just swapping the motor over, not all the wiring. Oops, its been a long week, :doh:

Maybe I am not understanding properly, but to run a HO head/engine in your Renix jeep, you just need to make an adapter for your TPS. Everything else swaps right over, at least it did on mine.

No worries, you didn't 'help' me lose it. i wasn't really willing to pay more than $20 shipped for a cargo light.

Yes, it would work. I am running a 95 block and manifolds with a 7120 head in my Renix era jeep. I made my own adapter for the TPS and EVERYTHING else just plugged right in. I agree with the above as well, there is no budget stroker. I spent $1200 just on machine work for my block and head on mine. I think I have just under $3k into my stroker, I kind of stopped counting once it hit 2k. :dunno: