azscott

Well mine did almost the same thing and it was the master cylinder. yes it still had fluid in it. The pedal was limp amost completely to the floor...not all the way but 90%. Thought I lost the slave too but was told to change the master first and that was it. Not saying yours is a master but...mine was....and it did not leak fluid...all the fluid was still in the reservoir. Costs what...40.00 or so for a new master cylinder.... scott

Not that you may care...but you can by a direct fit formed new carpet for $125.00. I did when I pulled mine out...I was going to clean it and then decided for all the work to get it out I would replace it. Now is also a good time to think about adding noise and heat shielding if you care. I did it to my MJ and what a world of difference. Not saying you should as money may be an issue but....that jute pad they use is almost wortlhless for heat and noise. Even just a foil backed pad will cut the heat. On my MJ the heat off of the tranny tunnel was hot on my right leg and annoying. I used a noise and heat barrier on the tunnel and killed that for good. Better now that...wish I shoulda-coulda-woulda. Sreiously you guys have no idea how good it is until you put a quality noise barrier and heat foil pad down and chuck the worthless jute OEM pad. scott

It was a bad master cylinder. Not too bad of a job..a little of a pain. $50.00 for a new one from Checker. scott

Checked the reservoir...it was just below the min. No fluid leaking at the firewall..it is dry and no indications it ever leaked in the past. I will check the tranny tomorrow. I did fill it up and seem like i got some pedal back. I forgot about the reservoir when i posted. Hopefully nothing major...a master cylinder I can replace no biggy...a save...think not. I have a Jeep service manual so i will see how to bleed the system. scott

I ask as my 89 MJ ( 4.0, BA-10) has developed a loosey goosey clutch pedal. It just kinda flops around from fully let out to about half way depressed...then after that it has the normal resistance you would expect from a cluthc pedal. Seems the throw has been cut in half. When I say it is loosey goosey..it just flops areound with no back pressure or resistance. What say you? scott

Yep...the IAC. When you shut the engine off it pre-positions the IAC for a igher idle on the next startup...read that in the jeep manual...generally around the 3K range. As soon as it starts up the IAC should move back into the low idle position...which I think is extended...I have watched it before with the intake off. Mine was doing exactly what yours is..intermittent stuck at 3K idle....was a sticky IAC. scott

O.K..I will buy that

This is on my 89 MJ BA10 4.0. The PO said the reverse lights stayed on constant so he disconnected them...I think there was a sensor on the top of the tranny. He then wired in a set of small halogens on a switch for backing up. Fine for now but I am moving back to New Hamshire shortly and would like to take my Arizona Comanche with me. NH has safety inspections and everything has to work....unlike here where who gives a hoot if it has no doors..tailights...a hood..as long as it passess emissions test...your O>K. Back eas is opposite...who cares if it pollutes but it has to be safe. Anyway, anyone know of the part number for that reverse sensor on top of the BA10 tranny...I was unable to locate it. scott

Glad it worked...for both you and me. Now anyone else who has bad forward channel seals knows exactly what to use....and like I said...ain't it a PERFECT fit. Looks better than original. Scott

Mine did too ( just sat on there)...but mine did not leak...you may have a worn bushing...I think there is a plastic or fiber bushing under the shifter...can't remember. You should not leak fluid out the top at that point simply due to the rubber seal not being tight ....I wouldn't think. I did consider using two tie wraps to cinch it down. My Pathfinder is like that...the dust boot was held on tightly with a big darn ti wrap. You could join two smaller ones together maybe and cinch it around the outer edge? scott

I think this will fit...although I think you may have to take the shifter out...not sure. I know it says for AX-15 but...I read somewhere where they said it would fit. Sure looks like the one I have...who knows..maybe someone put this one on my Puegot? http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/52109_02.htm and for more boots. try here..which is where I found the one for my floor finally. Not the original one but is from a jeep and finally kept that nasty gear oil smell and heat out. http://www.thefind.com/instruments/info ... ssion-boot

I assume you are talking about a rubber dust boot? I have one on my Puegot tranny...I thought I saw one on one of my parts website will see if I can find it. I assume you are NOT talking about the one that screws to the tunnel to seal out air from coming through the floor but rather the one that slips over the shifter and sits down on the tranny. scott

Now I agree on the window wipes...no suitable sub for those and I also ponied up for them. Still have to install them...again when i take the door panels off to replace the speakers.....dang panels..on/off..on/off...

Yep one strip....it is like 8 feet or more I think. I still have 5 feet left over and there can't be 20" left in the door...so yep plenty. May be a bit fun trying to get it down the side of the window inside the door which is why I was told to remove the window first...which is why I said...screw dat....and only replaced the upper half....for now. I just could not take that constant rattle of the window when it was not rolled up and when it was rolled up the wind noise was rather loud also...as the entires OEM strip was gone. scott

I had asked several times if anyone had found a suitable sub for the window channel sealing strip...this is the vertical strp that runs betwen the front of the window and the frame that seperates that little wing window. Team Cherokee sell the OEM for 99 bucks a piece so for two windows it is 200. After trying several different types of rubber window channels the one I found that works is style 24 from precision. I had to get calipers and measure the three critical dimesnions to get on ethat fit perfect. It is felt lined and works absolutely perfect. Takes like 2 minutes to install. Now i did not run it all the way down inside the door. i chipped out what was dry rotted down to just below the level of the door with the window rolled down and left what was below that level there as it was not dry rotted and well..I have no desire to take my door panels off yet again to get inside and do what is below the level of the window rolled down. When i do remove the panels I will pull out the rest of the OEM seal and finsih it off. One piece is all you need for two full windows and costs 17 bucks....yippee. Here is the link to JCWhitney...it is style 24. Remember this does not work for the rest of the win dow as that channel is a bit larger and you can get the OEM stuff from mopar parts for 33 bucks anyway. http://www.jcwhitney.com/ALL-RUBBER_WIN ... 009944;0;0 here is a pic...I hope.. Image Not Found