Blue XJ

I'm heading to the Badlands in Indiana in the middle of September if anyone is interested. Probably running the orange trail and parts of pink.

Another couple pics Image Not Found You can see I was able to fit the main hoop between the cab and bed to save on space. It was a tight fit with 1.5" but doable.

Mine is made from 1.5" tubing... Image Not Found

Here's one reply I got on another forum. It makes sense to me and I was thinking the same thing actually.

I took my valve cover off and looked at everything. I had a few pushrods that were barely spinning some going really fast. I took the rocker arms off and there was no abnormal wear on them. When I was tightening them back down I was able to recreate the noise. I guess it mjust be valve springs sticking or something. I guess I'll remove them and reseat them. If you listen closely you can hear them ticking as I begin to torque the bolt and compress the valve spring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVWPU-VvUwA&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Mine does it as well. It has been doing I for a while and recently it picked up a tick/knock while it is running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxY9nPBwIqM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

If you have the Dana 35 your best bet would be to find a grand Cherokee (zj) with rear discs. They had Dana 35's as well so they are a direct swap, grab the trip valve too and your good to go. That's how I did mine, except I had to modify the mounting plate to fit on an 8.25.

I built the ones on my truck, just find a design you like and start building. There are companies that sell the mounting brackets for the front if you didn't want to measure and drill all the holes.

Based on that picture it looks like your rear suspension isn't doing much, the rear axle looks pretty parallel to the body still. Your front is doing all of the work. Edit: not trying to be mean, just pointing out my observation.

It just depends on how you make them. I made mine out of metal and I think they turned out great. The only issue with using metal is attaching them. I decided to fully weld them, however you could put a rubber strip on the backside so they sit flush to the body, then attach them just to the frame, that way you wouldn't burn any paint off from welding.

You won't have any issues with death wobble because of the lift. If you do get a wobble its because something is worn out. I run 6.5" of lift with no sway bars or steering stabilizer for about 5 years and have never had a wobble or shimmy in the steering wheel. If something is worn (ball joints, hubs, tie rod end, control arm bushing, track bar......) you can very easily get a wobble.

Whoops, forgot about that part! The last I saw on another build one bolt is roughly in the same place and another hole needs to be drilled then a nutsert installed. I opened the hole in the striker and bolted it to the existing hole in the body, works great. I never got around to adding the second bolt, its been at least a year and they haven't moved yet.

I think they are 3/8-16 x 1.25. You could take the front one out to double check, they are all the same.

I think I had 1500+ just in machine work by the I had the rods, crank, block and head machined and cam bearings installed. Don't forget injectors too, that raises the cost quickly. My buddy built his own turbo setup for his 4 cylinder YJ, it works rather well, but still cost a good amount since he had to upgrade the fuel delivery system to get enough fuel into the motor. A new pump, lines, fittings, an adjustable regulator to up the pressure......... it all adds up if you do it right. I was able to make an adjustable MAP sensor for mine instead if buying an expensive regulator. I have the DRB scan tool so I was able to dial it all in as well.

If you fit an Air/Fuel meter you can see the output of the O2 sensor at all times. It monitors the open-to-closed loop transition, and uses the 0-1 VDC O2 sensor output that is fed to the computer to indicate the A/F mixture on the meter. A Renix era O2 sensor doesn't operate on a 0 - 1 scale, I think it goes from 0 - 5, so a standard A/F gauge wouldn't work properly.

$3,500 for a turbo stroker is CHEAP! Too cheap... :hmm: That's what I was thinking but didn't want to say it. It must be all used parts with no machine work to the motor.

I don't agree that they aren't worth the money. I spent more than I would have liked to, but you have to pay the money to do something right so it lasts. $3500 for a turbo stroker is a very reasonable price, my NA stroker cost about the same and I did all the work myself.

Its an E-12 socket

I like mine, better gas mileage and more power than my stock 4.0. It cost more than I had budgeted for it, but a motor isn't something I wanted to do on the cheap.

You sure? It looks like the bumper is 97+ but not the grill or header panel. I am looking at this on my phone, so I could be wrong.

Aren't they studs sticking out of the bed to mount it? At least that's what mine had, had to drill out every one of them in order to put new ones in

If it belongs to a kit, my local store makes you bring the whole kit in to exchange. If not, they won't exchange it because they don't sell that piece separately. Kind of a dumb policy, just give me the new piece out of a kit on the shelf and send me on my way, its the same thing.

Do you still have the original one. If so just keep it, the pump is big enough to run a HO motor with, no need to swap any of that stuff just for the motor swap.

X2 on the ballast resistor, I've had it go out on me before, I keep a spare in the glove box now I think it was under $10.

The driveshaft will only slide into the tcase on axle droop, and only minimally. I would position the yoke in the middle of its travel, or even a little further in the tcase and then measure.