Blue XJ

x2 And odds are that if the torque converter wasn't seated fully and you forced the bolts down to tighten it, you could have damaged the pump in the trans. If you used the torque converter that came with the new trans, make sure the snout is the same diameter. I doubt they would be any different, but its one more thing to check.

I would think you would be all set with that. The bumpers that tie in to the steering box bolts help to stiffen everything up too.

I welded the track bar mount on years ago when I first tried to chase this problem down.

Yeah, same here, or a cab and frame or something. Don't ya love for sale posts that don't include pictures.

True, but I bought a comanche 'frame' when I started my project, at least thats how it was listed, it was the frame and the cab, nothing else.

I have no idea, I do not know this person. He has his phone number listed in his ad, give him a call.

x2 I've always been a fan of these. If they made a 15" version, I'd put them on. I'm too cheap to buy new tires to go with the bigger wheels.

I have a brace that is very similar in design on mine. I also made a brace that goes from the trackbar mount to the opposite frame rail. After years of wheeling it, I get a nice loud clunk everytime I turn the steering wheel. From what I can tell, a few of the factory spot welds near the steering box have popped, even with the braces. My next step will be to use some frame plates on the inside and out and tie them together with tubing. Rusty's sells a set and so does Liquid Iron Industries. http://www.rustysoffroad.com/builder-parts/jeepspeed-racing-parts/rustys-steering-box-frame-plate-xj-cherokee-drivers-side.html Or for both sides... http://www.rustysoffroad.com/builder-parts/jeepspeed-racing-parts/rustys-steering-box-frame-plates-xj-cherokee-drivers-passenger.html http://liquidironindustries.com/XJ-Front-Frame-Plating-kit.html

Ran across this thread on another forum I frequent. Comanche taill lights for sale $60, they appear to be in good shape too. He also has what appears to be a rust free tail gate for $100 http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=276966

I wasn't too sure, I always thought the crank sensor controlled the spark and the cam sensor controlled the fuel. Maybe that's only on the newer vehicles, or like mentioned above, only when the Renix is in closed loop mode?

If you went with a single core anyway, how come you couldn't have used the Omix-Ada one? Just asking....

Isn't the cam sensor in the distributor responsible for controlling when the injectors fire?

I sent that picture in a LONG time ago, I didnt think it would ever make it in the magazine!

Yup thats me! Comanche of the month last month and in Peterson's this month Its a good couple of months.

I've been using airsoft bb's to balance my tires for about 10 years now. You need to figure out how much weight is needed to balance the tire, then throw in some extra bb's. Ive used them on 30's, 32's, and 35's with no issues on any of them.

I agree with this. A stabilizer is there to mask any little issue. I have not ran a stabilizer for the last 8 years and I do not have any wobble or vibration from the front end. If something is worn, you'll get a wobble, but the stabilizer might mask it.

My 95 still had the threaded hole for it. I ended up going with the newer thermostat housing that has the sendor port built in.

I don't have a diagram, but I did this with mine when I converted. It really only took 10 minutes with a meter to figure out what wires did what, there's only a few of them.

You can bolt the new mirrors to the old doors. They fit perfectly. But you are correct, there are no chrome ones out there.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/18469-swapping-to-97-doors-here's-the-wiring/ Here's the wiring I used. I had to cut the door lock wires in the stock switch or else I would pop a fuse each time I used them. It ended up being a bulky harness, but it got the job done.

The Rock Krawler kit would be easy to adapt. The control arm mounts just weld to the bottom of the frame rails.

Somewhere on here I did a write up for creating your own harness to get the windows/lock/mirrors to work on the newer style doors. I tried to search for it but couldn't find it. It has the pinouts of all the connectors in it and what is needed to hook them up. Sorry that's not really a help, but the info is here if you can find it. I'll try searching again tonight for it.

No participating yard within 100 miles of my location. (Metro Detroit) Closest one is Columbus Ohio. There are a few non participating ones that show up, lets hope the get added to this site. I doubt they will though, even when you call asking for a part they say I don't know, come and look for yourself.

PM Sent, Thanks Pete!

Whatever parts you want to swap.... Fenders, Header Panel, Grill, headlight surrounds, marker lights/turnsignals. wiring harness for the lights. radio antenna base