Blue XJ

This will work if the central axle disconnect on the front axle is disengaged. Since he pulled into his driveway in 4wd, then presumable shut off the engine without shifting to 2wd first, it is still engaged. So he will either have to start the engine, shift to 2wd and turn it off, or remove the front driveshaft, or lift a front tire off the driveway. Why? Because the NP231J made before 1994 does not have a true neutral. In neutral it locks the front and rear driveshafts together. Shifting the transmission into Neutral and the transfer case into 2wd will always work. x2, I was going to comment the same thing, I didn't know the year they changed it, but I know my tcase locks the front and rear outputs together in neutral.

It's about 6.5 hours for me, but I've done the drive at leas a dozen times, would be up for it again depending on when.

That was my thought as well, although I would never use it for that purpose. Other than steering, there really isn't any fluids under the hood to keep cool.

Did they make any XJs that have the 29 spline 8.25 and 4.56 gears? Nope, I grabbed a set of stock 4.56 axles years ago, I think they were from an 88 or 89 with a 2.5 auto. Since then I have swapped to a 29 spline 8.25, I agree with the above. 4.56 and 33's is about perfect, 4.56 and 35's is a bit under geared. Now that I have a manual it seems better, but I really wish I went with 4.88's. I'm running the 8.25 with a stroker motor and heavy 35" tires and an ARB with no issue yet. I have alloy shafts in it as well though.

I've been running this kit for over a decade. I just finally rebuilt the crawler joints, due to them getting rather rusty and the ball seizing up. It doesn't come with a crossmember, but it doesn't require one either, just two brackets that bolt/weld to the frame rail. I pieced their kit together, but I have thier long arm kit, coils and track bar and mount, no issues with it in the last 10+ years.

Should I deflate the tire first? You would have to, you have to break the bead of the tire to put the balance beads inside of it.

I have balance beads in my tires, as do my buddies with beadlocks. They balance out just fine. I assume the reason they aren't DOT approved is that the bolts could loosen up, which means they could fall out and hit other cars, or the tire could completely come off. Just a guess. Take a few bolts out, you'll be able to tell if they are real.

I guess I don't mind it, give the leg a good work out. I'd prefer that over my big block duster with manual steering. Takes everything I have to turn that wheel in a parking lot, too much weight over the front end. Why do they suck in drive throughs? You don't even have to hit the gas when letting the clutch out. It's almost like lifting your foot off the brake to move a little.

I'd put the one with more tread on the right rear. Even with an open diff, the power is more likely to go to the right side.

Why do they suck in drive throughs? You don't even have to hit the gas when letting the clutch out. It's almost like lifting your foot off the brake to move a little.

Yeah. That was good. But I'm kinda partial to December 2013.............. I think April's of this year was a pretty nice looking rig too. :dunno:

Post a picture and we can help, I have an idea of what you are talking about, but can't picture how it is actually happening, a picture would make this much easier.

I just switched my auto out for a manual. It's mostly a trail only trucks that does get driven on the road occasionally. I only go offroad in the rocks and technical trails, my next trip out will definitaly be a change of pace, hopefully I like it. Comparing the auto to the manual, it's like a night and day difference. I didn't change anything else other than the trans, with the manual, it's definitely a bit quicker feeling, due to the different gear ratios. The throw on the shifter isn't very long, I'd say it's fairly standard, comparable to a cheap economy car shifter throw. They do make a short throw shifter for it if you wanted one though.

I am spoiled. I am 55 miles from Jegs and about 125 miles from Summit. Even standard shipping sometimes gets to me next day. I just didn't think of ordering through a dealer as being faster because for me it usually isn't. I'm further than that and standard shipping ALWAYS gets to me the next day, as long as I order by about 2pm.

I bought a set from Autozone, they were Mr Gasket brand, have held up to heavy wheeling for about 8 years now. I think they were $12.99

That thing has been for sale for years. I remember seeing it posted on my local Jeep board a few years ago, he wanted $20k+ for it back then if I remember correctly.

I would think any 5th wheel camping trailer would far exceed the payload of the Jeep. Both in pin weight and overall trailer weight. Just because it can and has been done, doesn't mean it's a good idea.

I have a Lincoln 140 amp machine. I generally run it on flux core when I weld thicker stuff, since it burns a little hotter. I have used it to build my Jeep from the 'frame' up, it's welded everything I've tossed at it up to about 1/4" If it's thicker, I just bevel the edges and doa couple passes. I would recommend a 220v welder if you are able to use/afford one. I was limited to only being able to get a 110v, otherwise I would have gone 220v and been able to weld anything.

It looks like you might be right, the grill has an R/T badge in it. There is a lot of difference between an RT and an SRT. Looks like the scat pack is an RT with the SRT motor.

x2 I have two trucks, neither one has ever gotten anything in the bed other than what I toss back there.

That looks sharp! Not too horrible of a price either for an SRT

You design, engineer, manage and release the part for production. Following it from initial design through to production. Gotcha. Heard the term a few years ago when talking to a buddy I graduated with, but never asked what it actually meant. On a brand new automotive design, approximately how many parts does a single engineer see through from design to release? Depends on the commodity you are working on, but I'd say on average it was about a dozen parts at a time. +/- based on part complexity. For the Challenger I had fixed glass, interior and exterior mirrors, sill moldings, windshield wipers, cowl screen headlights and front and rear fascias. For the vehicle before that, I had maybe 10 sheetmetal components and fixed glass.

You design, engineer, manage and release the part for production. Following it from initial design through to production.

x2

Seeing as how I was the release engineers for the mirrors, I will have to disagree. lol I've driven hundreds of Challengers, once everything is adjusted properly, the blind spots aren't too bad. The worst one is over the hood towards the passenger side, since you think the edge of the buldge is the edge of the car, but there is really another 2 feet to the edge.