Blue XJ

From what I have gathered from searching online, most of the cam failures in the strokers can be sourced back to the P5249464 valve springs that everyone was originally using. These are the Magnum V8 springs, which apparently have a much higher spring pressure than the stock 4.0 springs. At least that's what I came up with after doing hours of research on replacement cams.

I had a real bad lifter tick and when I pulled the valve cover, I noticed there are 3 or 4 lifters that no longer spin while the engine is running, I'm assuming its a wiped lobe on the cam. While I had the valve cover off, I also noticed that the lifters bleed down completely in about 10 seconds after I kill the motor. It's starting to stumble pretty good at idle as well lately. I have a new set of Mopar Performance lifters and a MP cam to go in it, just have to find the time, and some warmer weather. I didn't even think about the Hesco cam, forgot all about it somehow.

It was a Crane 753901, the one that most people recommend back when strokers were just taking off. It ran great with it, but like most others, it's starting to have some issues. I picked up a Mopar Performance cam for it, but its still sitting in the garage, it's been single digit weather for almost a month now, don't have the ambition to change it yet.

Hopefully that works for you, since they are like $10 only.

I built mine about a decade ago, I just recently experienced a cam failure, but from the sounds of ot, most people that used the same cam also had a failure. Mileage went up and so did power. The only downside I experienced was the ~$4K it took to build one myself, but obviously I used all quality parts and had everything machined to freshen it up.

Should just be the blower motor resistor. If you look in the heat duct that is in the passenger footwell you should see a few wires plugging into a sensor. That sensor has resistors on it to control the power going to the motor. Usually when it goes out, high is the only speed that works, but I would check to make sure it is still functioning before replacing the blower motor.

It's not the DRB3, its just the DRB for that vintage. You need the Jeep Eagle adapter for it as well. I am lucky enough to have one, it works good at live streaming data and testing certain systems and sensors, but there are no stored codes with it.

Ive had 3 or 4 different gears over the years for all the tire sizes I've ran, I've never had to do anything with the cable. Just buy the correct gear, the one I picked up a fee months works fine, so they are still out there.

I have 5150's out front and 5125's out back, the ride is perfect, IMO. I'm running 6-7" of lift with the 10" travel version of the shocks.

Yes, they are fine. Image Not Found (Right side of the bumper)

X2 on the 5150's, they are a very nice shock. I've ran them since about 2005 and they are still working great, I had to replace the bushings, but the shocks look brand new still. The ride is nice and smooth.

A quick google search came up with this for the 'conversion' seal. Spicer 46470 Chicago Rawhide 11800(CR 11800)

Warn also sells a conversion seal. At least they did years ago. It goes in the disconnect housing where the current seal is, it has a smaller ID to seal on the smaller 1 piece shaft. I used that setup for years with no issue. Another benefit, you wouldn't have to disconnect your steering and disassemble the driver side as well to pull the carrier out to install a seal. You'd just need to pull the passenger side shaft out.

What does he consider the right truck?

My buddy has a 5.9 ZJ that he just swapped an AX15 into. It's a pretty fun Jeep now, he has had it about a year now, only major issue so far is the viscous coupler is on its way out and once in a while everything on the dash goes dead for a few seconds. Other than that it's been problem free. It's hard to say if its worth getting one, even the newest on is 17 years old, it's hard to say what type of life any of them have had for that long.

I had something similar happen, I was selling something for $10 (value was easily $100, I just wanted it gone) He asked if a 6 pack of beer would cover it instead of $10. I said sure, then he asked if I would meet him somewhere 1/2 way. I told him I will be throwing it in the garbage the next day because I would rather throw it away then go through that much hassle for $10. I never heard back.

Nice looking truck! Does the WJ booster make a big difference? I have the 96 XJ one currently and would like a little better braking performance. Is it worth swapping to the WJ one? Was it a direct swap, or was anything special needed?

He's a bit over the towing capacity yhen. The quad cab 2wd is only rated for 9200 And it goes down when options are added.

I have a 2011 quad cab with a Hemi. Over 40k miles, my average MPG is 13.5, I do 90% city driving. Last summer I towed my travel trailer a lot, it's about 6200 pounds with about 900 being tongue weight, the truck handled it great, nice and stable. No real complaints other than the transmission calibration really sucks (5 speed) and a slight shutter when MDS kicks in. I do wish I bought a crew cab though, our car seat (rear facing) has to go in the middle to fit, its a bit of an inconvenience.

I took a second hood and cut the center out, then welded it on to my current hood. I trimmed out the center too, so its fully functional.

They are an awesome tire. I just sold them and made the switch to BFG Muds, they aren't as good, but should work for what I use it for now.

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If you like those, get some Moabs from a TJ Rubicon, they'll bolt right on. Paint them black to match those.

x2 My CO2 tank works awesome. I also have on board air. I used the stock Sanden air compressor for it. I have an inline tool oiler to provide oil to the compressor. Then a stainless braided high temp hose coming off the compressor, a check valve, oil/water separator, and an air manifold. Coming off the manifold I have a gauge that goes into the cab, on/off pressure switch, air line going to an air chuck on the front bumper, blow off valve, a regulated output for my ARB lockers, and a hose going to a 3 gallon tank mounted under the bed. From the tank I have another air chuck mounted in my bed that is regulated to 100psi to run tools off of.