Blue XJ

That's what I started with when I built mine. Made it easy to do what I wanted to it.

Saw this pop up on my local forum. http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?p=4907945&posted=1#post4907945

I like this idea, I might have to copy it. I currently lay mine across the front of the bed and zip tie it to the tie down loops in the corners. It's underneath my toolbox this way so it's somewhat protected from the elements. I used to leave it in the open all the time and the mechanism corroded enough that the jack quit working properly.

I have the same switches as above, they are a perfect size to use in the stock switch location on the dash, next to the headlight switch and the cigarette lighter. They fit into the holes that the factory switches are in perfectly. The best place I have found to buy those switches is www.otrattw.com I have a switch panel that I made, it's bolts to my center console in the front, below the ash tray, I have 5 or 6 of them mounted in that. And I have my 3 ARB switches mounted rearward of the shifter, in the ash tray spot (ash tray for the 97+ center console) Image Not Found

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I've never thought of that, I like that idea.

Sounds u-joint related to me, probably the one down by the rear axle, but I would replace both of them on the driveshaft.

With 31's - 32's you will want 4.10 gears. I tried 3.55 gears with 31's for awhile - it sucked. 32's will be even worse. Why don't you just get a set of "thick" 4.10 gears for the D44 - no need for a new carrier. Are you 2WD Charlie? I agree with this as well. You'd want at least 3.73's but 4.10's would probably be the best. I used to run 4.56's with my 32's, with a 4.0/AW4 combo, seemed just fine to me. 2500rpm at 70 and lots of torque off road.

My last set of Spicer 760's lasted about 9 years, and most of that is driving on the highway to an offroad park to get beat on, then driving home. I replaced them a few months ago with another set of Spicer 760's and am planning on getting the same time out of those as well. If they only lasted a few weeks, I would say it was installer error, or the shafts are damaged.

Where is it leaking from? It could be the actual steering box too. Mine leaks at the top where the input shaft is.

Check to make sure it's the pin. The hinge could have pulled off of the body as well.

If you clean them up, you just need a 1/2" wrench for the final torque, makes it pretty easy.

Either of you guys still want the trans? It's getting moved closer and closer to the curb each week.

I still use the stock bolts, but I took a tap and cleaned up the threads in the driveshaft. I can screw the bolts all the way in by hand now and just need the wrench to torque them.

If I'm not mistaken, there is also a smaller bolt about half way up on the passenger side. I seem to recall it needing a 1/2" socket to remove, It's been a long time since I pulled the motor though, so I could be wrong.

cool story

Senior Engineer at a Defense Contractor.

Double post - delete

I've ran a Rock Krawler 3 link for over a decade. I haven't had a single issue, still using the original joints that it came with. There shouldn't be any more stress is the system, it only takes 3 points to define a plane, any more than that and it is over constrained and will bind somewhere. Just use the axle mount on the diff since it is the stronger of the two.

x2, After my last set of Goodyear Wranglers, that came stock on my Ram, I will not buy another. Horrible wet performance and I barely managed to get 30k miles out of them.

If the injectors are leaky, it could be the oring that is on the top and bottom of the injector. They are fairly straight forward to replace and cheap to buy. It could also be the injector body itself, there is a seam between the two halves that like to leak when they get old. If you need to replace the injectors, Ford Mustang ones are a common swap and fairly inexpensive to buy. As for getting injector cleaner into them while it isn't running, I'm not sure on that one.

Its probably the rear main. Its not a hard job to replace, but it's very time consuming.

Depends on the look you want. I put them out on the Jeep (BFG MT KM2) and I put them in on the Ram (BFG Long Trail)

I used the ARB style switches, they fit right in the openin with no trimming needed. Ibuy them from here, good prices, good selection and fast shipping. http://www.otrattw.net/Contura-II-III-SR/

There is no picture showing for me, I have no idea what you are talking about.