Blue XJ

The 249 in 97 and 98 Grands has a locking viscous coupler, that locks the front and rear together in 4 low.

The case in mine is a 90, it locks the front and rear together in neutral.

I used a pilot bearing from a TJ when I swapped in my AX, everything fit perfectly. Try getting a different bushing before machining down the one you have.

You can buy the motor it has for $50 direct from Roush http://www.roushyatesparts.com/racing-engine-p/ryscfa410.htm That would be a good start to getting you what you want. Probably another 30-40K for the trans and tcase, then you'd just need axles.

I would get a new intake and carb for it, would be much cheaper and easier than swapping in a fuel injected 4.0. I have a quadrajet on one car, once it is fine tuned, it works perfectly, and I have a Holley from the 60's on another, which also gives me no issues. Both of these cars sit 350+ days a year and get maybe 500 miles on them a year.

I would, but mine is from a 97+ XJ. If that's the same style that you have I'll swap ya.

Mine is the opposite, i have a 231 but the shifter for a 242, it hasnt caused me any issues yet.

With 6" springs on a LWB with a SYE, my rear pinion is set at 8 degrees up. Not much at all.

I have the smaller sized Kobalt box from Lowes in mine. I wish it was a couple inches wider front to back to make it easier to fit my toolbox in, but other than that, I'm going on 5 years now with no issues.

You would need a standalone harness for the engine. There are plenty of companies out there that will take a stock Chevy harness and modify it to what you need and also modify the computer to work for you as well.

I've had the JCR OTK kit since it came out, actually, I was their test rig for the first prototype setup. I think,its been about 12 years now, I just finally had to replace the tie rod ends, the boots ended up tearing and mid and water would get in them. I run the Rock Krawler track bar with their drop frame mount. It's a double shear setup at the frame, and you upgrade to a 5/8" diameter bolt at the axle, using the stock bracket. On road I have no bump steer. Offroad its noticeable, but not bad enough to change it in the last 12 years. For $300 the steering is a nice setup, just takes a little bit of work to modify the axle to run it.

:thumbsup: might as well, I'm pretty sure its a direct swap from the 8 1/4 Is that true? I have a set of disks I took off my 8 1/4, that originally came from a D35. I was going to sell them, but if its a direct swap, I'll put them on the 8 3/4 under my Duster.

Thanks for reminding me to check mine. Mine has also been reading 120ish for a while, after spending a few hours on the trail it gets up to 200 on the gauge, but it takes hours to get there. I'm gonna check the temps at the radiator and t-stat housing tonight.

If he gets the whole axle, there wouldn't be any compatibility issues. I would get one with the larger ujoints, unless you never plan to go offroad with it. Even with the larger ujoints, you can use the spare shafts that you have, they would fit fine, just have a smaller set of ujoints. I think mine is from a 95, but as long as you stay with a high pinion one, you should be good.

Ive rebuilt a few of them. Setting the gears properly is the hardest part. You reall only need a dial indicator and a lot of patience to do it though. Must easier to do on a bench then it is to do under the vehicle.

Thats what I wanted to confirm and thanks to all for the replies! I bought their cheap leveller with it too. The plastic handle came off the second time I used it. I ended up welding a nut in its place and I use a ratchet to spin it now.

I've used the 1 ton many times. It's a little short on some vehicles, but it gets the job done. I had to do the last one (Vette) from over the fender, since the boom wouldn't reach. The most I've lifted with it was a 4.0/AW4/231 combo. My buddy just borrowed it to pull a fully dressed 460 big block.

We took it to the Dream Cruise this year, it was a hit, tons of people were asking about it, a few wanted me to build them one.

I usually have 1 big trip a year with a few of my buddies, normally its in September, but we could change it to August if you guys didn't mine a couple Rubicons tagging along.

I bought the go kart parts online, that included the hubs and tie rods. The frame I made myself, the wheels and tires were from my cousin who races go karts. All said an done I have about $150 into it, about the same price as a new Radio Flyer town and country wagon. If I had to buy the wheels and tires it would have added about $200 to that, so I probably wouldn't have built it.

That's what mine looks like too, same seats, but in tan with a 97+ console. I was able to use the 97+ shift boot as well to fill that opening aroud the shifter. Had to scoot the console rearward a little though, the boot would bunch up and make it tough to get into 2nd.

$2.94 around here. Its about the only good thing about election time.

This is my buddies write up from a long time, they are holding up great. http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=46943&highlight=

I might be interested based on what they look like.