Eagle

There's an assembly code stamped on the side of the block, near the distributor. Next to the distributor there's a boss with a recessed, square drive plug in it. If there are any non-standard rings or bearings needed, there will be one or more letters stamped on that boss. The following are from the 1994 FSM, but I think they should be the same for 1991: P = One or more rod bearings 0.010 undersize M = All crank bearings 0.010 undersize PM = All crank bearings and one or more rod bearings 0.010 undersize B = All cylinder bores 0.010 oversize C = All camshaft bearings 0.010 oversize

Didn't the XJs with the long console have a molded duct that runs inside the console to direct air to the outlet at the rear of the console? I'm going from vague memory -- my '88 XJ has the mini-console, so I can';t use that as an example.

Or turn down the ends of the 3/8" bolts and thread to the appropriate metric thread.

IMHO, for a short-term "fix" the bastard pack is the way to go.

I had a 31x10.50-15 under my shortbed.

I do not understand how, if the truck is stationary with the wheels on the ground and blocked so it can't move, you are rotating the front axle. Are you crawling underneath and putting a pipe wrench on the axle tube? Or are you referring to the front driveshaft?

The factory bumper and brackets have not been available for several years.

Don't think so. To provide 1.5 inches of lift, they would have to be 3 inches longer than stock MJ shackles.

Maybe some additional explanation will help. The location of the heat or A/C air outlets is controlled by vacuum-actuated flappers. The dash control doesn't move the doors directly, it controls a vacuum switch that then controls where the flappers are set by using engine vacuum to move the flappers. When there's a vacuum leak, the default position is to direct air up through the defrost outlets. The usual failure that causes this is the line from the vacuum resrvoir behind the front bumper, and it often fails where the vacuum line runs under the battery tray. But any significant vacuum leak can create the same problem so, since you're looking at busted vacuum lines, before you waste any time trying to diagnose the air flow issue, fix all the vacuum lines you can find and that very well may cure your problem.

Ideally you should extend the bump stops by the same 1-1/2 inch, but most people wo do a 2-inch budget boost run the stock shocks with no bump stop extension.

Visually, no. Put it in 2WD, jack up on front wheel, and see if you can rotate the tire manually. If the transfer case is in 2WD, the driveshaft can turn so you'll be able to spin the wheel. If it's in 4WD, the driveshaft can't run so you won't be able to spin the wheel.

What do you mean by "build it"? It should be easy to find an 8.8 with 4.10 gears and a limited slip differential. No re-gearing or "building" necessary. Just add a set of spring perches and a pair of wheel spacers (the 8.8 is narrower than the XJ/MJ axles) and bolt it in.

Short of leaving it stock, that sounds like a good choice.

A friend of mine did the driver's side floor in his MJ using a section cut out of one of my parts XJs.

We need more info. You said "rebuild," but you mentioned JB Weld on the block. Did you rebuild the original block, or did you build a junkyard engine? If you used a junkyard engine, what year is it from? If it's a '91 or newer, whcih flywheel did you use and whick crank position sensor did you use?

Most of the factory alloy rims are 15x7 -- the TJ Canyons are 15x8. You can run 31x10.50-15s on 15x7 rims.

My thought is that a stock 2.5L doesn't have enough power to run 31s and be comfortable driving on the street.

As far as I know, there are NO aftermarket rims with the 5-1/4" backspacing needed to run 31" tires with no trimming of flares and/or sheet metal. But -- Jeep used the 5-on-4/12" bolt circle wheels with the 5-1/4" backspacing for so many years and in so many styles that you should be able to find something in that configuration you can live with. Any aftermarket rims will have less backspacing. That means you won't need the WJ lower control arms ... but you will have to trim to avoid interference when you turn. I'm confused by your comments regarding coil spacers. You shouldn't need anything to run 31s on Jeep rims. A 2-inch spacer will lift the front more than enough to remove the rake. I would suggest a 1-inch (or 3/4-inch, which I think is the more common size) rather than a 2-inch spacer.

That photo looks like someone has already been mucking around with it. And didn't know what they were doing.

No, it says more than that. A 207 or a 231 would not have a "Hi Lock" and a "Low Lock" plus another position. That "4WD" position is UNlocked 4WD, which means all-wheel drive. That looks a lot like a 242 shift gate, and that's not surprising in a Laredo. Grab it.

The '88 track bar doesn't have a zerk fitting in the frame end. The '91 does. AFAIK they are interchangeable. Clarification: I don't know if the Rock Auto bar for the '88 has a zerk fitting. I do know that my 1988 Cherokee, which I bought new, did not have a zerk in the track bar.

The factory recommendation for the AX-15 was gear oil rated for GL-3. But GL-3 is no longer available, and the newer GL-4 and GL-5 formulations have more sulfur, which is what destroys the brass synchronizer rings in the AX-15. According to the parts guru at my dealership, the factory changed the recommended juice for the AX-15 to motor oil a number of years ago. The Redline MTL works well because it doesn't have the destructive high sulfur content. I keep wondering if Pennzoil Synchromesh gear lube would work, but I haven't seen any reports of anyone trying it. Since my Jeeps are either before or after the AX-15 years, I can't test it even if I wanted to. Out of curiosity -- does the AX-5 have the same problem with GL-4 and GL-5 gear lube as the AX-15? Logic would suggest that they're probebly built pretty much the same, but I naver hear of anyone having lube problems with the AX-5.

Ask Hornbrod where he got his external PRNDL. No need to carve up an instrument cluster.

With a multi-weight (multi-viscosity) oil, the first number is the cold viscosity and the second number is the hot viscosity. A thinner oil (lower number) provides better cold flow and, thus, better lubrication at start-up. If the second number is "40," the performance at operating temperature is the same. To get an oil that's thicker at operating temperature, you'll need to look for an oil graded ##W-50. Which is just about impossible to find these days. Both Mobil-1 and Castrol Syntex used to offer oil with 50 in the second place, but I haven't seen it on the shelves for several years.

I like the nut setter idea! I drilled out the broken studs, threaded the holes, and screwed in 6mm bolts, using epoxy to lock them to the retainer plates. I went up from 5mm to 6mm because I think 5mm is just too small. I also used anti-sieze on the threads when I put on the flares.