Eagle

Most of the factory alloy rims are 15x7 -- the TJ Canyons are 15x8. You can run 31x10.50-15s on 15x7 rims.

My thought is that a stock 2.5L doesn't have enough power to run 31s and be comfortable driving on the street.

As far as I know, there are NO aftermarket rims with the 5-1/4" backspacing needed to run 31" tires with no trimming of flares and/or sheet metal. But -- Jeep used the 5-on-4/12" bolt circle wheels with the 5-1/4" backspacing for so many years and in so many styles that you should be able to find something in that configuration you can live with. Any aftermarket rims will have less backspacing. That means you won't need the WJ lower control arms ... but you will have to trim to avoid interference when you turn. I'm confused by your comments regarding coil spacers. You shouldn't need anything to run 31s on Jeep rims. A 2-inch spacer will lift the front more than enough to remove the rake. I would suggest a 1-inch (or 3/4-inch, which I think is the more common size) rather than a 2-inch spacer.

That photo looks like someone has already been mucking around with it. And didn't know what they were doing.

No, it says more than that. A 207 or a 231 would not have a "Hi Lock" and a "Low Lock" plus another position. That "4WD" position is UNlocked 4WD, which means all-wheel drive. That looks a lot like a 242 shift gate, and that's not surprising in a Laredo. Grab it.

The '88 track bar doesn't have a zerk fitting in the frame end. The '91 does. AFAIK they are interchangeable. Clarification: I don't know if the Rock Auto bar for the '88 has a zerk fitting. I do know that my 1988 Cherokee, which I bought new, did not have a zerk in the track bar.

The factory recommendation for the AX-15 was gear oil rated for GL-3. But GL-3 is no longer available, and the newer GL-4 and GL-5 formulations have more sulfur, which is what destroys the brass synchronizer rings in the AX-15. According to the parts guru at my dealership, the factory changed the recommended juice for the AX-15 to motor oil a number of years ago. The Redline MTL works well because it doesn't have the destructive high sulfur content. I keep wondering if Pennzoil Synchromesh gear lube would work, but I haven't seen any reports of anyone trying it. Since my Jeeps are either before or after the AX-15 years, I can't test it even if I wanted to. Out of curiosity -- does the AX-5 have the same problem with GL-4 and GL-5 gear lube as the AX-15? Logic would suggest that they're probebly built pretty much the same, but I naver hear of anyone having lube problems with the AX-5.

Ask Hornbrod where he got his external PRNDL. No need to carve up an instrument cluster.

With a multi-weight (multi-viscosity) oil, the first number is the cold viscosity and the second number is the hot viscosity. A thinner oil (lower number) provides better cold flow and, thus, better lubrication at start-up. If the second number is "40," the performance at operating temperature is the same. To get an oil that's thicker at operating temperature, you'll need to look for an oil graded ##W-50. Which is just about impossible to find these days. Both Mobil-1 and Castrol Syntex used to offer oil with 50 in the second place, but I haven't seen it on the shelves for several years.

I like the nut setter idea! I drilled out the broken studs, threaded the holes, and screwed in 6mm bolts, using epoxy to lock them to the retainer plates. I went up from 5mm to 6mm because I think 5mm is just too small. I also used anti-sieze on the threads when I put on the flares.

Blind hole? Knock sensor.

Personally, for a street truck I think stock height suspension with 30-inch tires is perfect from an appearance perspective.

To answer this and Dzimm: I won't have any control over how these machines might be used if I get them running. I am well aware of the vulberability of Windows XP. If I send them out with XP still installed, I will run the hack that gets XP updates intended for "embedded" Windows (such as used in ATMs). It at least continues to receive important security updates, but Microsoft doesn't want the public to know about it. It's less than perfect, but it is what it is. I would certainly try to make any new owner aware of the issues with using an XP machine on the Internet, but I don't expect most people with a computer to NOT connect. That's not a reasonable expectation. What I don't want to do is get involved in anything that promotes or advocates software piracy. I don't especially like Microsoft or their business practices over the years, but the law is the law. And since I can't afford to put money into these things, everything I do is going to be from cast-offs and scrounging. For example, rather than install a pirated copy of Microsoft Office, I'll install Libre Office. It works, it's file-compatible with MS Office ... and it's free. People who are power users unfortunately seem to have a tendency to be overly elitist regarding "minimum" hardware requirements. Remember the old saying: "In a world of the blind, the man with one eye is king." For someone who can't afford any new computer, a box with a Pentium CPU and a couple of gigs of RAM is Nirvana. I used to have an Acer Aspire One netbook. It had an early Atom CPU, it ran Windows 7 Starter Edition, and it had 1 GB or RAM. Basically, netbooks are regarded as being only useful for browsing the web and checking your e-mail. I took it with me to South America for three months when I had to be there to finalize the adoption of my daughter. I had the full Microsoft Office suite on it, several other programs, and even AutoCAD LT 2000. As long as I didn't try to run multiple programs at the same time, it ran everything. If I can get these things running, they'll be for people (or small organizations) who can't afford anything else. They'll still be a lot better than nothing.

Not data, as in bits and bytes -- "stuff." I'm posting this here rather than in the classifieds because it's not about Jeep parts. A co-worker has bestowed on me three older desktop computers. Not sure of the age, but they all have OEM stickers indicating that they have (or originally had) Windows XP installed, so they're ... old. My goal is to fix them up and either adopt them out through the pastor at my church, or give them to the Salvation Army. So far, I have one of them working and the operating system restored. One seems to be dead, and I haven't tried the third one yet. All I received is the actual computers -- no keyboards, no mouses, no monitors. I've put in a request with a friendly worker at the municipal transfer station to be on the lookout for a couple of working monitors. What I don't have and will certainly need is VGA cables. If anyone has an extra, unused VGA cable they'd be willing to pass along, I'd be more than happy to pay shipping.

The Crank Position Sensor (CPS) is NOT different for the AX-15 and the automatic. It is, however, different for the 1987-1990 and the 1991-newer model years.

The factory used a steering stabilizer for the reason Carnuck stated -- to combat steering wheel kick-back when rock crawling. One of the two times I experienced real, gen-you-wine death wobble was in my 6-month old 1999 WJ that had less than 10,000 miles on it and that had never been farther off-road than my gravel driveway. The steering stabilizer didn't do a damned thing to prevent the DW.

My initial response would be to ask why, for the type of off-roading you have described, you think you need 33" tires, or a 4-1/2" lift. I bought an '88 shortbed with a 4-inch lift, I hated it, and after putting it back to stock height I could go pretty much everywhere I was able to go with the lift.

Not on my '87. The lights and roll bar were factory, and the lites were KC HiLiters. They're long gone, now. They turned into heaps of rusty tin, so I cut 'em off and tossed the scrap. But they were what they were, and they were NOT Marchal.

The factory lights for the roll bar were KC HiLiters.

It still ran?

Trace the outline on the tranny tunnel and lay down a perimeter of this stuff for the console to seat against: https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-10-ft-Gray-Foam-Window-Weatherstrip/1096049

Probably a cousin of the guy who a few years ago was advertising a "Worn" front hub kit for the Cherokee.

Steering box is not the problem.

I measured. XJ rear bar is 5/8" diameter.

You don't need a caliper to measure. Don't you have a set of open-end wrenches in your tool box?