Eagle

No. The BA 10/5 was phased out early in the 1989 model year. Most '89s had the AX-15, and all '90s had the AX-15.

Those same centers fit a couple of other wheel styles.

It does depend on what you want to get out of it. Here in the northeast, the truckers still us CB, so it's useful to know where the radar traps are, as well as accidents and delays down the road. Plus if you're driving at night and getting sleepy, often you can find a similarly sleepy trucker who's willing to talk to a 4-wheeler just to help him stay awake. But for reaching out long distances (meaning more than 5 or 10 miles, depending on terrain), ham is much better.

That won't prevent the problem from recurring. Eliminating the express down will help. Of course, a valet could still just mash the down button until the window stops by itself -- or he might be lazy and just roll it down halfway go get some air flow. Maybe I'll just put a strip of duct tape over the controls ...

Why not just buy a CB radio? They aren't expensive, and you don't need a top-of-the line unit for a road trip. Also consider that many states have laws prohibiting the use of cell phones when driving, but CB radios are still largely not addressed..

I know about that repair, but that's not what happened to mine. My wife apparently used auto-down regularly, and the repeated crash stops at the bottom finally broke the bond between the glass and the regulator frame.

I'll have to dredge up the wiring diagram. The switch itself has a detent -- I was thinking if I replace it with a switch that doesn't have a detent, that might be the answer. Good idea on looking for a third wire -- I need to open up the door to see why that speaker doesn't work anyway, so maybe I can do both.

1988 red is Colorado Red, and it should still be available.

Don - That looked promising -- until I realized the same circuit breaker also handles the power locks. I don't kow that the valets lock the doors when they park the cars, but I hope they do and I wouldn't want to disable it. I think I'm going to look into replacing the driver's window switch with one that doesn't have the auto down feature.

That video makes it look like the upper shifter handle just easily pops off the lower part of the lever. NOT SO. It's REALLY on there. I've tried separating them in a vise and couldn't do it. The shop foreman at my dealership told me there was a special tool for the job, but they never used it at the dealership and they eventually threw it away to make room for newer tools in the tool crib.

Not for an MJ -- for my late wife's 2000 XJ Classic. The XJ has power windows, and the driver's window has an "express down" function -- push the switch all the way, and the window goes all the way down even if you release the switch. It's supposed to stop at the bottom. My wife used the express down a lot -- and the auto-stop must be out of adjustment, because eventually the glass came loose from the channel. I epoxied it back and it's been working ever since, but I'm careful not to use the express down function -- I always stop the window before the glass disappears completely into the door. Recently I've had to spend a lot of time at the local VA hospital. Parking there is non-existent so, against my better judgment, I've had to use their valet parking service. Even though I left a sign in front of the speedometer today "DO NOT USE WINDOW CONTROLS," when the valet brought the vehicle out for me ... the driver's window was all the way down. I'm sure he used express down. So I need an easy way to disable the power windows. If anyone is familiar with the 2000 XJ electrical harness, is there some accessible location where I can splice in a kill switch that will disable power to the windows with a flip of a switch?

The following is from my book manuscript, which is copyrighted. Please do not copy and distribute.

There is a difference. It's in the offset from the rear mounting surface of the ears to the outer surface that the rotor mounts to.

I missed the important fact that this is a '97 conversion. I just had my late wife's 2000 XJ die in the middle of the road after having been stopped for about ten minutes while I met a guy to sell an old laptop computer. Had it towed home and, 45 minutes later, it started right up. No codes. I talked to the shop foreman at the dealership (he's a long-time friend) -- turns out, the CPS doesn't throw a code when it goes tango uniform.

The resistance test is to be run at operating temperature, and I've never been able to determine how the people who wrote the FSM expect you to get the CPS to operating temperature if the engine won't start. The better test is the actual output from the CPS, which can be tested when cranking. Your symptoms definitely sound like CPS. I know they are susceptible to heat soaking -- that is, the performance deteriorates as the sensor heats up.

But, Don -- it says they use "Superior materials and sub-components." Surely Amazon wouldn't lie ... would they?

But they aren't 9/16" bolts -- they're 14mm.

Did my eyes deceive me, or does that ... thing ...have a tachometer?

No, dissing on Renix MJs is a common affliction among the envious souls who are forced to endure with the Chryco injected models.

That is NOT a stock J-truck. What is that, aftermarket injection?

I respectfully disagree. The XJ is a spring over, with the springs set up to have essentially no arch when sitting at curb weight. That means whether the spring takes on more load or is unloaded, the rear shackle is always going to more forward Because either way the spring is bending/arching more, thus getting shorter). The MJ starts at curb weight with significant arch, and as the bed gets loaded the spring flattens and gets longer. For an MJ, the basic curb weight orientation should have the shackle closer to vertical, to allow the spring to work properly as the load is increased.

Quadratec has the front flares and the retainer strips. https://www.quadratec.com/search/cherokee%20flares If you're using the original MJ flares in the rear, the OEM style flares in the front will look better than anything else, even when trimmed to fit the 97+ front clip.

But WJ wheels have a different bolt circle. They won't fit an MJ. My bad on the tire size. Basically, a 245/70R16 is the same diameter as a 30x9.50-15, and it's a tenth of in inch wider in cross section. My comment remains unchanged: I ran 30x9.50s for a number of years, before moving up to 31x10.50s, and the 30s rubbed on the LCAs at full steering lock. Not a lot, but consistently, and I NEVER remembered it was going to happen until I heard the rumble, and said to myself "You dummy, when are you going to learn?"

.5 inches larger than what? 235/75R15 was never a factory tire size, neither on the MJ nor on the XJ. The largest tire size from the factory was 225/75R15. So even a 235/75 is larger than the largest tire offered from the factory. It's 0.6 inches taller and 0.4 inches wider. Compared to a 235/75R15, a 245/70R15 is actually 0.4 inches smaller in diameter, but it's 0.3 inches wider in cross section. And that's where it WON'T fit. It's wider than a 30x9.50-15, and I know first-hand that 30x9.50s rub on the lower control arms at full steering lock. And lift does NOT eliminate that problem; the only thing that eliminates it is either wheels with less backspacing, or WJ lower control arms.

I didn't see any photos in the discussion page you posted a link to ... As to Chevy body lines being similar ... have your eyeglasses prescription checked. I can't imaging how Chevy flares would fit on an MJ without some major modifications.