Eagle

Buying a club account, on Photobucket or anywhere else, doesn't solve the problem that all the photo links in old posts are dead. Move or copy the images to a new hosting service, and the links will still be dead unless and until someone goes into each and every post with images and manually edits the links.

That wouldn't surprise me, either, and it also won't surprise me if all those companies go out of business rather quickly. What they fail to grasp is that the end users have come to expect the Internet to be basically free. We all know that it costs a company money to maintain servers and to provide a service, but nobody asked them to offer us free photo hosting. They came to us and said, 'Here it is -- use it!" So we did. Then they started piling on with advertisements. Yeah, okay, the ads pay for the service, we get that. But when they piled on so many ads that they interfered with the usability of the service, the use of ad blockers became a self defense mechanism for the users. If Photobucket had not been so greedy about the way they managed the ads on their site, users wouldn't have needed ad blockers. So now Photobucket can't make [enough] money from ads, so they want to charge the end users. But the amount they decided on simply isn't reasonable. All it's going to do is drive people away. And I can't escape the thought that this is ultimately what they want -- to get rid of the pesky freeloaders (like most of us) who only have a few hundred or a few thousand images hosted under the [formerly] free service so they can devote their server space to the photo and video professionals who have far too many images hosted to even think about downloading them and moving them elsewhere. I think more people are going to start hosting their own photos. We can sign up for our own web hosting, with lots of server space, five or ten or more dedicated e-mail addresses, and technical support for creating our own, personal web site for a LOT less than $399 a year. Photobucket is just going to push more people to do that sooner than they would otherwise have done so.

This does not work for me. I'm running Firefox as my browser, what are you using?

This is why I have never liked or trusted the concept of "cloud" computing. Sure, it's convenient -- when it works, and the "cloud" is available. But once they get you hooked on "the cloud," they can change the terms of service and jack up the price at will, and you're held hostage. I agree with Yellaheep -- the damage this has done to the Internet community is incalculable.

CPS was my first thought. I guess I'll call the dealer tomorrow.

Does anyone know if there's a source for those (or similar -- also needed for the gas tank) J-bolts?

No distributor on the 2000 XJ. Coil pack went bad maybe five years ago. Threw codes all over the place. No codes for the CPS?

You can use the front axle from a ZJ Grand Cherokee (1993 thru 1998) or a TJ Wrangler. You can use the transmission and transfer case from a YJ or TJ Wrangler, but the transfer case may be "clocked" wrong and hit the tranny tunnel in the MJ. And you may need to get creative with the transfer case shift linkage.

2000 Cherokee 4.0L, 127,000 miles. Stopped at a McDonald's for a drink. Pulled out onto the street, drove half a block, and it died about three car lengths before a traffic light. Wouldn't restart -- just cranked, no fire. Check engine light came on. Had Triple-A tow me home. Hooked up scanner -- NO CODES! Turned the key, and it started right up. No more check engine light. Any thoughts? Now I don't know if I dare drive it or not. And none of my other vehicles are running at the moment.

There was a factory no bumper location? Yes.

Seatbelts and retractors are also MJ specific, IIRC. It has a chrome grille -- what does it have for a gauge cluster?

That's minor. The big problem is remembering all the forums and all the posts where you have images, and going back to edit every link to an image. And ... many forums don't allow users to edit their posts after a short time-out period. This is a nightmare, and it's going to create a LOT of pain for a LOT of people. I "only" have 230 images on Photobucket, but they're scattered among roughly 20 albums. It took me three evenings to download all my albums -- and that just gets them onto my hard drive as .ZIP files. I still have to unzip them, find a new place to host them, upload them to the new host, and then cruise three or four forums to find all my old posts with images -- and see if I'm allowed to get into the old posts to edit the links. Piece of cake. So how was your day?

The only way to retain the height sensing valve is to retain the original MJ front distribution block. The front distribution block has to have two outlets, one for the primary rear brake circuit and one for the bypass circuit. The XJ/ZJ/WJ proportioning valves don't have a secondary outlet. You could eliminate the bypass circuit, and just run the one line to the height sensing valve. That will work fine as long as you don't have a problem with the front brakes. If you lose the front circuit, though, instead of getting full power to the rear brakes you'll only get as much (or as little) as the height sensing valve is allowing. If the bed isn't loaded, that's probably not very much.

Then I suspect the clutch, not the tranny. Tranmissions don't usually "tick" when they go bad, anyway.

If I were doing it, I would first pull everything out of the good truck, clean and paint the inside of the engine compartment, then swap over the 4.0L wiring harness first. I'd do the engine and drive train last, after the harness is all in place.

Was it making the same ticking noise before you changed the clutch?

Short answer: No. Long answer: No. Especially not if "road" includes rain or snow or ice.

Correct. No, NOT correct. As we have documented many times, in many different discussion threads, the lower front outlet on the MJ distribution block/valve is NOT the primary outlet. It is ONLY an emergency bypass circuit, and it sees brake fluid pressure/flow ONLY if the front brake circuit fails. To run a single line to the rear brakes, you connect the "nose" outlet to the rear flex hose. Look again at the photo in post #33 of this thread.

It doesn't have any connection to the speedometer, either. It can't -- the speedometers on the Renix MJs are mechanical, driven by a cable. It is literally a timer. It starts running when the ignition is turned on, and it stops when the ignition is turned off. It doesn't count to exactly 80,000 miles -- the factory made a bunch of assumptions about probable average usage, and built the timer to count down to when an average owner would hit 80,000 (or so) miles based on engine run hours.

140,000 miles? Barely getting broken in. The Jeep 4.0L engines are usually good for 250,000 to 300,000 with just routine oil changes and maintenance. Wish I had taken pictures of the MJ when I dug it out of a Muskydime bush where it had been sitting for the past 5or6 years. The guys son had worked on the fuel injection and put 3 wrong injectors from something in it and didn't replace the orings on the fittings and the original owner just parked it after his son fixed it because it wouldn't run and it was leaking gas everywhere out of regulator side...Now she purrs like a kitty cat I love it when kids "fix" things. Back in my Hudson collector days, the guy who owned the 5 & 10 cent store down the road (that should give you a hint how old I am) GAVE me his old Hudson, which was a twin to the one my grandfather once had, because his son had "fixed" the head gasket and it wouldn't run after that. Of course, his son had never heard of gasket compound, or a torque wrench. The guy obviously expected that I was going to have the car towed away. I wish I had a photo of his (and his son's) face when I pulled the head (very easy on a flathead six), gooped up the same gasket sonny had used, put it all back together, fired it up, and drove it home.

140,000 miles? Barely getting broken in. The Jeep 4.0L engines are usually good for 250,000 to 300,000 with just routine oil changes and maintenance.

A desperation marriage made in hell. :rotfl2: You only tell yourself that because you can't admit that you secretly envy those of us with Renix MJs.

The timer does not reset itself. The factory says they cannot be reset. Some people have figured out how to open them up and reset them, but most of us ignore it. The O2 sensor is supposed to be replaced every 80,000 miles. I just do it at multiples of 75,000 because that's easy to remember.

No, because using a used heater core would be a huge mistake. The newest XJ core you can find will be 16 years old. I've seen heater cores fail in less than 16 years, so you'd be doing all the work to install a part that could fail next week. Buy a new one.

"Renix": The ignition & injection system in the '86 through '90 Cherokee and Comanche was a product of a joint venture between Renault and Bendix. Thus ... RENault + bendIX.