Eagle

Do everyone a favor and wait more than two minutes before re-posting the same question. If you need to clarify something you already posted, that's why each post has an option for "EDIT" beneath it. Parallel threads merged ...

How do you know it has to be something with the TPS? I've had symptoms like that in older, carbureted vehicles decades before we had such new-fangled thingies as throttle position sensors. When I was starting out playing with cars, the only throttle position sensor was the driver's right foot. Got any vacuum leaks? How's your fuel filter?

Not much better. The long bed still isn't 8 feet inside, so you still can't put up the tailgate with 4x8 sheets in it. And there still isn't 4 feet clear between the wheel arches, so you still can't lay the panels flat on the floor.

This calculator http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/CarbCFMCalc.htmlcomes out with needing 166 cfm if you want to keep 5,000 RPM as your redline. Summit's on-line calculator https://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/cfm-calculatorreports 187 cfm Here's another calculator http://www.csgnetwork.com/cfmcalc.htmlthat reports 166 cfm. So somewhere around 160 to 180 cfm is probably good. Too small will run well at low RPM but you'll be starving for power (which the 2.5L doesn't have an abundance of to begin with. Too big and you hurt fuel mileage. The third calculator I linked to above reports 220 cfm for 100% volumetric efficiency -- which would be a VERY high performance engine, and is basically impossible. So figure around 200 cfm as the maximum you'd want (I think).

I thought you said in your other thread on this topic ( http://comancheclub.com/topic/53258-carbureter/) that you already have a carburetor. :???:

The fuel pump. Carburetors need a maximum of around 7 psi (IIRC). If the pressure is too high, it will blow right past the needle valve and flood the float bowl. I think the best idea would be to scrap the OEM fuel pump and buy an aftermarket pump made for use with a carburetor. You also need to find an appropriately sized carb. The carb used on the 2.5L Jeep engine in the '84 and '85 Cherokees was trash. If I were doing a carb conversion on a 2.5L (something I'm considering, actually), I'd look for a non-computer controlled carburetor. Back in the late 1960s, AMC had a 199 cubic inch version of the in-line 6 (the same basic engine as the 4.0L Jeep engine) that ran on a 1-barrel carb. A 199 c.i.d. is 3.2 liters, which isn't that much bigger, so a carb for that engine might work. I had a Rambler American back then. With the stock 199 engine, an more open air cleaner and a glasspack muffler, I routinely got 28 MPG on the highway.

Unfortunately, that's where the bulk of Jeep's market is these days. "Jeep" has become a commodity vehicle. They aren't interested in building Jeeps any more, they're only interested in selling vehicles.

There's a remote possibility I might be able to stir up some interest in the extended cab version The others (the short 2-door, and the 4-door) are just plain awful. The 4-door needs to get a longer wheel base and rectangular rear doors. There's just NO reason for those stupid doors on a crew-cab pickup.

... does NOT mean you know how to use it. I've been having a shimmy in my late wife's 2000 XJ recently, showing up at about 58 MPH. It's a problem, because I'm currently working a couple of remote construction sites and have to drive 150 to 200 miles each time I go there -- mostly 65 MPH highway. So over the weekend I took off the two front tires and schlepped them back to Wal-Mart, where I bought them, to have them rebalanced. No charge, because I paid for lifetime balance when I bought them. Dropped them off, walked over to McDonald's next door for breakfast, walked back and they were ready. Took them home and installed them on the vehicle. And ... now the shimmy is worse, and it starts at 55 MPH rather than 58 MPH. So ... anyone who is trying to diagnose death wobble and tells us it "can't be tire balance because I just had the tires balanced" ... I've got news for you. Oh, and I'm certain my problem is the tires, because while I was getting the tires balanced I put a set of old, barely legal, el cheapo tires I took off a used Cherokee a couple of years ago. No shimmy with those, so it has to be Wal-Mart's balance job.

Auto Zone http://www.autozone.com/engine/head-bolt-kit/edelbrock-head-bolt-kit/857875_0_0 Oops. Hold on ... just noticed that I searched for '86 Jeep 2.5L, but the fine print says these are for a Ford 429-460.

74 and up

Which line of SMP? They make one line that is "Absolutely the cheapest option that will work long enough for you to sell the vehicle, or maybe to get you to the liquor store and back" and another that is "Not the greatest, but at least it isn't BWD." T-Series is what they call the terrible stuff, and the P/Ns are the same as the better stuff but with a T on the end. IE the automatic TPS is a TH67 for the better one, and a TH67T for the junk one. I didn't know that. Times change -- back in my pony car days, Standard was the go-to brand for points, condensers, caps and rotors.

The Renix system always requires a bit of cranking before the engine starts. That's the nature of the beast. However, once it starts it should stay running. Have you cleaned the IAC (Idle Air Controller) and adjusted the throttle position sensor?

Historically, I've needed mine on average maybe once every four or five years. However, Connecticut is now using that liquid "auto eater" salt solution, and that REALLY eats up brake lines. My 2000 XJ 5-speed came within 50 bucks of being totalled this past winter because a front brake line popped. I'll be replacing with Cunifer line, which is supposed to be more resistant to corrosion. With three XJs and three MJs (not counting the hulks), I expect to be using the flaring tools a lot more over the next few years.

Have you checked the fuse for the TCU?

I agree that there's no magic or mystery to the double flare. But ... the key is a GOOD double flare tool. The cheap ones just don't work, and not everyone is willing to shell out $60 or $100 for a tool they hope to use only once. I don't know if the parts stores lend out double flare tools, but that might be worth looking into. Whatever you do, DON'T buy a cheap flaring tool and think "It'll be good enough for one little job." It won't. Handle the size adapter carefully. There's a 3/16 flare adapter still hiding in the engine bay of my '88 Cherokee, somewhere -- I did that brake job at least ten years ago. It took awhile, but I was finally able to source a replacement for just the adapter, without having to buy the entire tool and set, so I'm back in business.

Full-time transfer case "option"? I wasn't aware the Grand Cherokee came any way other than full-time. The early ones had some funky transfer case that the off-roaders hate -- 247, maybe? -- that didn't do something. Was it no low range? The later ones (in the ZJ series) I thought all had the 242.

If you can find a stock length that's just a little too long, you can get by with that -- but it doesn't look good. And you want to be sure there isn't so much excess that it hangs down and can get caught on something. Just be sure you don't get a piece that's too short -- 6 inches too long will work, but a half inch too short won't work. Don't try to make tight bends freehand -- more than likely the line will kink, after which you can throw it away. Use something as a mandrel to make the bends. x I found this on Amazon. I've had two of them (a large and a small) in my toolbox for decades.

Brake hard lines are generally not available as pre-fit, even for current production. The size is 3/16-inch. Length -- take a tape measure out there and measure it. You'll have to buy one that's a few inches too long, cut off one end to the correct length, and double flare it.

I used to run 85-140 in the tranny of my racing Javelin. Back then I couldn't find it in auto parts stores, I had to buy it from the local White truck dealer. They used it in the big trucks. That wasn't caused by the weight of the gear oil.

3/16 inch.

With the 242, the front should not have the CAD, so that much is correct. The D44 was not part of the 242 option, it was part of the trailer towing package, so the rear axle could be either a D35 or a D44 -- more likely a D35.

You are referring to the power/comfort switch. When set in "comfort" mode the shift points were at a lower RPM and not as crisp. In "power" mode the shift points were raised to a higher RPM and shifts were a bit firmer. Most of us just set the switch in "power" mode and forget it. The HO change you are referring to was simply the elimination of the switch, and hard-wiring it to the "power" setting. If you have the switch (and it works), you don't need to "upgrade" anything, or change your TCU. Just flip the switch.

I know my '68 Javelins and AMXs had points and condenser, but those were the 290-343-390 engines. I think the 304-360-401 series got electronic distributors before '81. I had a '78 full-size Cherokee with the 360, and I **think** it had a Prestolite or Autolite solid state distributor.

I'm confused. Did you blow the rubber flex hose from the rear chassis to the axle, or did you blow one of the hard lines from the block on the axle to the rear wheels?