Eagle

^^^ Y ^^^ Yep. Might as well use the product that's made for the purpose. I think it's called "Emblem Tape."

If the '95 XJ was a 4.0L the ratio is 3.55 (or 3.54). If it was a 2.5L the ratio is probably 4.10.

Chip tuners basically advance timing, as evidenced by the fact they require the use of high-octane fuel. The closest thing I know of to a "tuner" for the Renix is the high-altitude CPS, which allows for more advance. But the Renix doesn't really need a chip -- thanks to the knock sensor, the performance is already there. You just have to unlock it -- by filling up with high test gas. I tested this with my '88 XJ when it was fairly new. I tried running mid-grade and high test gas. On high test, I could feel the difference in the seat-of-the-pants dyno, and my fuel mileage on a trip from Connecticut to mid-Vermont and back -- carrying a girlfriend, two kids, and clothing and "stuff" for a weekend, was 28 MPG. On regular gas the mileage was never higher than 21 or 22 MPG.

You should not be having any problems. The front brakes on the MJ are fed the same as on the XJ. The big difference is the second line to the rear. Did you replace the front flex hoses? If they're old, the inside may have deteriorated to the point that a flap of material is blocking the flow.

If it spins over, it cranks. That's what "cranking" is. Do you mean it cranks but doesn't fire?

Friction modifier is needed only if the diff has a clutch-type limited slip. I disagree that "most" gear oils already contain friction modifier. My experience is that "most" do not.

Many people are of the opinion that the UCA mount on the disconnect axle is much stronger than the sheet metal bracket on the non-CAD axles. The only potential issue with using the CAD axle is that the passenger side of the pumpkin may not be machined to accept a seal, but other people have been able to make that work. Go for it.

I agree. The Comanche is a very capable off-roader in stock form. Although you can run 31x10.50s on factory rims with no lift at all, IMHO 30x9.50s with no lift make a better all-around package. Your post said "moderate" wheeling. What the word "moderate" means is probably different for everyone who reads it, but to me that doesn't suggest anything that should require a lift. This is especially true if you will be using the same truck as a daily driver.

I read what he wrote as just the opposite, but it doesn't matter. Each seal can only go in one location.

They brought them back because they offer several advantages. But they're more than reservoirs -- they're expansion/surge tanks. They are part of the pressurized cooling system, which is why the Mac's radiator and Moroso aluminum replacements use conventional radiator caps.

Out of curiosity -- you have checked to verify that the bulbs in the cluster are good, right?

It may already be gone. The circuit is normally closed, IIRC, and it relies on inserting the seatbelt tab into the buckle to make a connection that shuts off the buzzer. On my '88 Cherokee, after many thousands of miles the driver's side seat belt broke -- the little spring inside the buckle failed, and the tab would no longer stay latched. I replaced it with the one from the center rear, but that didn't have the electrical connection. I remember clipping the connector off the original buckle end and splicing the wires together to make a closed circuit, and then plugging that into the pigtail under the seat.

There's a link to the '88 electrical manual floating around here somewhere. That will answer all your questions. Found it: http://www.bteventures.com//mj1988electricalmanual.pdf

Seat belt buzzer, perhaps?

If there's 12 volts at the connector, the switch isn't bad. More than likely the brushes in the blower motor have worn out and it needs a replacement motor.

http://www.harborfreight.com/Three-Jaw-Puller-Set-4-Pc-69104.html or http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html

The 2.5L uses the same timing chain as the 4.0L, but the deck height is lower on the 2.5L and that results in slack in the timing chain. To compensate for this, the 2.5L uses a timing chain tensioner that's not used on the 4.0L. Usually the tensioner goes long before the timing chain. My guess is that you need a timing chain tensioner.

I disagree. The UCA bolts are 10mm, and that's a LOT smaller than 1/2-inch. Factory control arms with mileage on them have a lot less slop than that and rattle and clunk pretty loudly. Find the right bushings.

Dunno. THe first one in my list is also a Jeep remanufactured unit. Until I looked them up, I wasn't aware that there's a different part number for the Renix water pump than for the '91 and newer. The one in your link says it fits both the 2.5L and the 4.0L. I have always been of the understanding that the two engines use the same water pump, but there are different part numbers in the parts manuals. There are also different numbers for export, and for some years the ZJ 4.0L gets a different water pump than the XJ. Who knew? I apologize -- I suspect this isn't exactly helpful.

JR77 5122 '87-'90 4.0L 4626 215 '91-'93 4.0L (XJ/MJ) 4626 215 '94-'96 4.0L (XJ) 4626 215AD 2000 4.0L (XJ)

If you do SOA in the rear with a Ford 8.8. you're going to get at least 5-1/2 to 6 inches of lift. To go with a 4-1/2" in front, IMHO you're better off staying SUA with a bastard pack and shackles. Here's a link that may help you decide on gear ratio: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html From that, you can see that 33" tires with 4.10 gears works out to almost exactly the same as stock tires with an automatic (3.54 gear). If you're use is 75 pavement, that's not too bad, and it makes it much easier than buying a new axle and then regearing it to 4.56 or 4.88. As to the front -- if you can get a complete axle out of a 4-banger with 4.10s cheaper than regearing, go for it. I'd probably just buy gears and call it good rather than spend a lot of time trying to chase down a front axle of of a 4-cylinder XJ or MJ.

The Mopar Performance timing set is the way to do, IMHO.

I think you would do well with a bastard pack. Get some junkyard springs out of a Dakota or S10 -- one of the years that were spring under -- and make your own AALs. There's nothing wrong with a full-length AAL. After all, one of the factory versions of the Metric Ton suspension was a 4-leaf pack with the overload. How is that different from a 3-leaf pack with an AAL?

Probably. Courtesy of the Department of Redundancy Department.

SOA is NOT the way to go if you're looking for 4 inches of lift. SOA is going to net you a minimum of about 5-1/2 inches.