Eagle

From FSM: After bleeding the brake calipers and cylinders the rear brake by-pass line must also be bled. Open a front caliper bleed fitting and depress the brake pedal to the floor. This will shuttle the by-pass differential valve and allow fluid to flow through the by-pass line. The brake warning light on the instrument panel will illuminate when the ignition key is in the ON position. This signals the shuttling of the valve. Re-Bleed the rear brake cylinders with the front caliper bleed fitting open. After re-bleeding the rear brake cylinders the entire system must be bled again. Bleed the brake calipers and cylinders in the following sequence: 1st -- Right rear 2nd -- Left rear 3rd -- Right front 4th -- Left front

We do. I transcribed it directly from the MJ FSM.

They do essentially zero prep work. And their paint is $#!&. I had my '88 Cherokee painted at MAACO because the original clearcoat was burning and peeling. The paint job looked ... "okay," maybe even "not bad" ... for about six months. After six months, the paint faded and went flat. And now there's rust popping through along edges where they sanded too energetically, and apparently didn't prime where they got to bare metal. I would never go there again. I think you can do better with a few spray cans.

The MJ never used a Dana 30 for the rear. The standard axle was a Dana 35. Are you sure that's not what you have?

Yes, the one on the lower block is the coolant temp sensor for the ECU.

Maybe, but I doubt you're really seeing an accurate check on your vehicle's odometer. Your vehicle's odometer records how far the vehicle actually travels -- a GPS only knows where the vehicle is relative to a set of satellites. Say you had a three-lane highway all to yourself for 100 miles. If you get in the center lane and drive, you'll go 100 miles. If you start in the right lane and drive the full distance weaving back and forth from the right lane to the left, you'll tavel more than 100 miles -- but a GPS will only know where you started and where you ended, so it'll show the same distance traveled. A GPS is okay (but not great) for checking a speedometer, but I don't think it's at all useful for verifying an odometer.

XJ springs and MJ springs are both 2-1/2" wide.

I often wonder the same thing. I owned a '99 WJ for a short while and the front VariLok worked well and was completely transparent. I think it would be a great match with a 242 transfer case, but I haven't had the money to try it.

Gotta luv thread necromancy. This thread is only five years old ... And in five years, the OP never came back to tell us if his buddy was able to diagnose and fix the problem.

Find some way to check the accuracy of your odometer before you do anything. It's not uncommon for manufacturers to set speedometers to read a couple of MPH faster than the actual speed, even if the odometer is correct. I have a 2000 Cherokee and I also have my late wife's 2000 Cherokee. Both are bone stock, and the speedometer on both reads 2 to 3 MPH fast when going past th0ose police radar trailers that display your speed as you approach. FWIW, I've looked at a lot of tire specs over the years, and all the 31-inch tires I've looked at are actually between 30.4 and 30.6 inches in diameter. If you want taller than that, you'll have to get 32s -- which will probably be around 31.5 inches.

Should we assume this is a Renix era MJ?

"Most" jurisdictions may not enforce such laws or regulations, but an insurance company looking for an excuse to not pay a claim very likely will. I know everyone ignores me, but my advice is: If it's not legal in your state, DON'T DO IT. You may get away with it for years, but one day it may bite you in the posterior.

If the alternator is working, it should run even with a dead battery. I suspect your new alternator was DOA.

I'm hoping to get the '87 Comanche Pioneer back on the road this Spring so I can proceed with getting it fixed up. It was missing the "COMANCHE" emblem on the right front fender when I bought it, so I'm looking for one to replace it. Please contact me by PM if you have one.

The '89 is about the same as the '88. Here's a link to the factory 1988 electrical manual. You'll just have to start tracing power from the battery to the main load center and see what's broken. Jeep used several fusible links back then, so it could be one of those. http://www.bteventures.com//mj1988electricalmanual.pdf

Okay -- what weight? What project?

4-pin or 7-pin?

I use the TJ shift knob (which was also the OEM knob in my 2000 XJ) and I find it to be very comfortable. It's a huge improvement over the idiotic shift knob Jeep used in the 80s and early 90s XJs and MJs.

The Jeep 2.5L was also used in some years of the Dakota pick-up. I don't know which years, exactly, nor do I know if there were any differences in mounts or accessories.

You could try just swapping the shuttle valve (the horizontal slider thingie) out of the XJ unit into your MJ unit, O-rings and all. That part is the same for both. (See the cutaway photos.)

Yep. Most are 15x7, the early base model steel wheels were 15x6 (not sure on the backspacing for those, maybe the same). Bolt circle is 5x4-1/2". Remember that OEM Jeep rims are "hub-centric," which means that the canter hole is a tight fit around that raised ring on the gub. There are other makes of wheels, both brand OEM (like Ford Ranger) as well as aftermarket, that have 5x4-1/2" bolt circle but aren't hub-centric. Some have the canter hole too large, others it's too small.

Keep in mind that, although the actual plastic switch is the same for the XJ, MJ, and ZJ, the overall distribution block/proportioning valve (the body) is not -- as can be seen in the two cut-away photos I posted above. The MJ has the proportioning function handled by the height-sensing proportioning valve mounted to the frame above the rear axle, and there are two lines from the distribution block to the rear. For the XJ and ZJ, the front valve block handles proportioning and there is only one brake line from the proportioning valve to the rear axle. That means you will have to find one from an MJ to accomplish a drop-in, OEM replacement. You can use a proportioning valve from an XJ or ZJ, but you'll have to abandon the second line and the height-sensing proportioning valve. And, since ZJs has disc brakes in the rear, I believe (but I'm not certain) that the proportioning valve for the ZJ was calibrated differently than that for the XJ. If you're going to go that route, I don't know which would work better in an MJ.

The plunger doesn't screw into the valve body, the switch body screws into the valve body. The plunger is in the switch. What I was trying to say is that brake fluid should not get to the plunger or the switch body. You need at least an O-ring, but who knows which one, what size it is, or what type of rubber it's made of? It's probably easier in the long run to replace the entire assembly -- the distribution block. (Or "valve/brake" in Hornbrod's photo)

Flares should end flush with the bottom of the sheet metal. There should be no interference with rock sliders.

Yes mine looks just like that one except its all gold and not silver No, you're referring to the entire distribution block (or proportioning valve, in the case of the XJ). The switch is just the small, plastic thing that screws into the top. If that's what's leaking on yours, that's all you need, and the XJ part is the same as the MJ part. (And I'm 98.37% certain it's also the same on the ZJ Grand Cherokee.) However: Take a look at the two cutaway photos I posted. It occurs to me that you may, in fact, need the entire valve assembly. The plunger switch itself should be isolated from brake fluid by the O-rings on the shuttle valve (that horizontal thingie that slides back and forth in the top of the valve body). If you've got brake fluid coming out the switch body, that's an indication that at least one of the internal O-rings has failed. I don't think the switch is intended to have contact with brake fluid.