Eagle

On 17" rims those are 30-1/2" tires, which makes the diameter about the same as most 31s. The width will be a bit narrower, though.They should work okay if you like the wheels.

Keep in mind that it's probably illegal to cut and weld your track bar. Get in an accident with a home-modified part like that and kiss your insurance goodbye.

Don't wait to flush the brake lines with new, clean brake fluid. I'm the guy who just wrecked a 40,000 mile 2000 XJ 5-speed because I didn't think to flush the brake fluid periodically. Hit the brakes hard to avoid a woman who cut me off in traffic, and a line popped.

Agreed, the right front is the most difficult. Dunno about Classic Tube. I bought a set from them for the rear axle of an MJ with a Dana 44, and what I received wasn't even close. Also not remotely like an MJ (or XK) Dana 35. Only thing I could think of was that maybe they were for a full-size Cherokee with a Dana 44 -- but why would the brake lines be different on that? They finally made good on it, IIRC on the third attempt, but that required my sending them the old lines to use as a pattern. I can do as well as they did for a lot less money.

None of the hitches you suggested include snow plow mounts.

This is why they make adjustable track bars. That's what you need, and with a 5-1/2-inch lift make sure you get a good one.

Nope. Not even going to ask. In addition to wanting to use stainless, I've seen what shops do when replacing brake lines. I don't want any part of it. I'll do it myself because that's the only way I can be certain the new lines are bent as nearly as possible to be the same configuration as the originals. At this point in my life. there is only one other person I'd trust to work on the brakes on any of my vehicles, and he doesn't work for that dealership.

We need to know what axle is under it. The u-bolts for the Dana 35 are not the same as for the Dana 44. If it's a 2WD it probably has a D35, but you need to be sure before you buy u-bolts and find they don't fit.

Two words: "Lucas Flamethrower" Next best thing to 747 landing lights.

I've never heard of a single unit that combines a front receiver hitch with a snow plow mount.

Finally some good news. I made enough noise that the company sent their head appraiser (for this state) to the shop to review the damage, and the claim. He found that the rep handling the claim hadn't done a detailed valuation on the vehicle. He asked if I had the original window sticker, which I didn't, but I was able to get a build sheet from the dealer and I sent that to him. He submitted that to a company theu use for valuations, and that increased the value by a few hundred $$. And in going over the repair estimate with the shop, he found they had checked a box to remove and replace a part that didn't need to be replaced -- it should have been remove and reinstall. So that lowered the repair estimate by $300. The combination means they're going to repair it, not total it. I am relieved. But the repair covers the collision damage, not the brakes. So, once it has been repaired, I'll have it flat-bedded home, and when the weather gets decent (or when I get a garage cleared out), I'll do the brakes. Lesson learned -- I'll use stainless steel tubing, and silicone brake fluid. Bookmark this for future reference: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Stainless-Steel-Brake-Line-Coil-Coil-Kits/1351510/10002/-1

The flex plate is part #8 in Hornbrod's diagram. That was my thought, as well.

Any sort of reach-out goes in "The Pub." Requests for parts you need go in the Classifieds.

Is there a disable on the driver's door? On my 2000 XJ, there's a push button switch on the driver's door control panel to lock out the other doors.

I prefer Sylvania Xtra Visions (I think that's what they're called). same light output as the SilverStars, but longer bulb life and cheaper cost. yeah I think the main difference is the silver stars are a "crisp white" color vs "bright white" or some nonsense like that. The difference is that the SilverStars have a blue tint to the glass to simulate the color of HID headlights. The problem is, any tint you put in the glass has to reduce (to at least a small degree) the amount of light that's transmitted through the lens. The XtraVisions are clear glass. But ... the key factor for me was the bulb life. The SilverStars have a rated life of 150 hours for the low beam and 50 hours for the high beam. The XtraVisions are rated for 850 hours low beam and 200 hours high beam. The wattage is the same: 65 watts high beam, 55 watts low beam. (The factory sealed beams were rated at 65 watts high beam but only 35 watts low beam.) Considering that the XtraVisions put out the same light as the Silverstars (or more!), cost less, and last orders of magnitude longer ... it was an easy decision to make IMHO.

I prefer Sylvania Xtra Visions (I think that's what they're called). same light output as the SilverStars, but longer bulb life and cheaper cost.

Which seems to confirm that your jumpers probably fried the fusible link ...

Amica. Usually very good to deal with, but ... "Ve haf rrrrooools!"

Have the insurance company find another jeep exactly like yours for the money they want to give you , bet you they won't , they'll give you some reasons why they won't . I thought insurance companies were supposed to get you to the point you were before the accident ... That used to be what they were supposed to do. The primary objective for all modern insurance company's is to determine how to pay out as little as possible (or nothing at all) by finding whatever loophole they can. Yes, but I offered to effectively increase my deductible so the insurance company would pay less and I could keep my Jeep with a clean title ... and they refused. If I can't convince them to assign it a higher value ... I'm screwed.

^^^ This.

1. For a relay to work, it needs power to two terminals -- the main power input terminal, and the "signal" input terminal. The main power input is hot at all times *(or should be). The relay is an electronic switch -- the input side of the "signal" circuit is only powered when you activate the switch or whatever it is that's supposed to operate the relay. So if you're just standing next to the fender and probing the relay socket -- you won't have power to the signal side of the relay unless someone (or something, in the case of the latch relay) activates the circuit. 2. Here's an explanation of what the latch relay does, and I don't think it would cause a no-start: http://www.justanswer.com/jeep/7l0xs-function-power-lacth-relay-88-jeep.html 3. You are still using confusing terminology. "Crank" and "turn over" mean the same thing -- the starter motor is engaged and turning the crankshaft. If it cranks, it turns over. If you mean it won't start, that's "won't start" or "doesn't fire." 4. Assuming Gogmorgo is correct and that relay socket you're probing is fed by a fusible link -- you may have burned out the fusible link.

The starter relay has nothing to do with spark. How are you testing for spark if it won't crank?

So this is what I got, what I can see from here is that I have part 12 the cam cancelling w/o tilt and all I need is the retainer (13) and pin (15) Correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Looks to me like your index marks aren't aligned. They put those on there for a reason.

Hood RF fender RF fender liner Header Grille RF Headlight assembly RF Parking light assembly Bumper RF bumper end cap Front air dam/chin spoiler (whatever they call it) RF factory fog light Inner fender (engine compartment wall) bent -- can be straightened RF radiator support That's about it. I don't have a copy of the written estimate, I'm going by what I could see was damaged.

Have the insurance company find another jeep exactly like yours for the money they want to give you , bet you they won't , they'll give you some reasons why they won't . I thought insurance companies were supposed to get you to the point you were before the accident . That's what I thought, too. Apparently we were wrong. E-mail from the person handling my claim at the company: "We pay on a total loss as Actual Cash Value and not replacement cost." Of course, my counter argument is that it isn't a total loss if they use a fair actual cash value -- which is why I appreciate all the links you lads have sent me to other Cherokees for sale. I can't use links to modified XJs for this purpose, but a couple of the links to stock vehicles are outstanding -- and they still don't come close to what mine is (ahem ... "was"). So far, though, even with the comparable vehicles information, my arguments have fallen on deaf ears. Wish me luck.