Eagle

I thought all MJs used 14mm U-bolts for the rear axle. The XJs used 12mm. I've standardized on 1/2-inch -- it's slightly larger than 12mm, and since I don't expect to be using my MJs for any heavy hauling or towing I figure good, new 1/2" U-bolts are at least as good as rusty 30-year old 14mm U-bolts. But -- I'm dealing with a mixed fleet of XJ and MJs, so I try to simplify where possible.

That's only good for up to about a 4-inch lift. Any more than that and you run out of real estate on the bracket.

^^^ This. Jeep had a model called the Commander, I believe, so you need to get the registration corrected. If you have a title, check what that says, too, because it probably agrees with the registration.

Nope. The external tranny cooler was an option that came as part of the trailer tow package.

I wonder why it only works with automatics. All my Renix vehicles are manuals.

He has lots of videos on youtube. Search for the REM videos. You posted a link. It's your responsibility to post the link to the video you want us to watch.

Okay, I watched the video and I didn't see a scanner even mentioned. What I did notice was at 3:45 -- he's rockin' a Dana 35 rear axle under that beast. It also looked like the vehicle he was recovring in one of the snow scenes was an MJ. New Jersey license plates, but I don't know of any terrain like that in New Jersey. Maybe at Rausch Creek? Not Paragon. Aside from the fact it's closed, I've been all over Paragon, and that ain't it.

No, they did not. Factory track bars were all solid. I have owned everything from an '84 XJ (the first year) to a 2001 XJ (the last year). ALL factory track bars were solid.

Rusty's adjustable track bar is hollow tubing. I've lost track of how many I've seen or heard about that failed in any of a number of ways on the trail. The reason for the difference is $$$.

I forgot about the bolt pattern difference. My bad.

On 17" rims those are 30-1/2" tires, which makes the diameter about the same as most 31s. The width will be a bit narrower, though.They should work okay if you like the wheels.

Keep in mind that it's probably illegal to cut and weld your track bar. Get in an accident with a home-modified part like that and kiss your insurance goodbye.

Don't wait to flush the brake lines with new, clean brake fluid. I'm the guy who just wrecked a 40,000 mile 2000 XJ 5-speed because I didn't think to flush the brake fluid periodically. Hit the brakes hard to avoid a woman who cut me off in traffic, and a line popped.

Agreed, the right front is the most difficult. Dunno about Classic Tube. I bought a set from them for the rear axle of an MJ with a Dana 44, and what I received wasn't even close. Also not remotely like an MJ (or XK) Dana 35. Only thing I could think of was that maybe they were for a full-size Cherokee with a Dana 44 -- but why would the brake lines be different on that? They finally made good on it, IIRC on the third attempt, but that required my sending them the old lines to use as a pattern. I can do as well as they did for a lot less money.

None of the hitches you suggested include snow plow mounts.

This is why they make adjustable track bars. That's what you need, and with a 5-1/2-inch lift make sure you get a good one.

Nope. Not even going to ask. In addition to wanting to use stainless, I've seen what shops do when replacing brake lines. I don't want any part of it. I'll do it myself because that's the only way I can be certain the new lines are bent as nearly as possible to be the same configuration as the originals. At this point in my life. there is only one other person I'd trust to work on the brakes on any of my vehicles, and he doesn't work for that dealership.

We need to know what axle is under it. The u-bolts for the Dana 35 are not the same as for the Dana 44. If it's a 2WD it probably has a D35, but you need to be sure before you buy u-bolts and find they don't fit.

Two words: "Lucas Flamethrower" Next best thing to 747 landing lights.

I've never heard of a single unit that combines a front receiver hitch with a snow plow mount.

Finally some good news. I made enough noise that the company sent their head appraiser (for this state) to the shop to review the damage, and the claim. He found that the rep handling the claim hadn't done a detailed valuation on the vehicle. He asked if I had the original window sticker, which I didn't, but I was able to get a build sheet from the dealer and I sent that to him. He submitted that to a company theu use for valuations, and that increased the value by a few hundred $$. And in going over the repair estimate with the shop, he found they had checked a box to remove and replace a part that didn't need to be replaced -- it should have been remove and reinstall. So that lowered the repair estimate by $300. The combination means they're going to repair it, not total it. I am relieved. But the repair covers the collision damage, not the brakes. So, once it has been repaired, I'll have it flat-bedded home, and when the weather gets decent (or when I get a garage cleared out), I'll do the brakes. Lesson learned -- I'll use stainless steel tubing, and silicone brake fluid. Bookmark this for future reference: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Stainless-Steel-Brake-Line-Coil-Coil-Kits/1351510/10002/-1

The flex plate is part #8 in Hornbrod's diagram. That was my thought, as well.

Any sort of reach-out goes in "The Pub." Requests for parts you need go in the Classifieds.

Is there a disable on the driver's door? On my 2000 XJ, there's a push button switch on the driver's door control panel to lock out the other doors.

I prefer Sylvania Xtra Visions (I think that's what they're called). same light output as the SilverStars, but longer bulb life and cheaper cost. yeah I think the main difference is the silver stars are a "crisp white" color vs "bright white" or some nonsense like that. The difference is that the SilverStars have a blue tint to the glass to simulate the color of HID headlights. The problem is, any tint you put in the glass has to reduce (to at least a small degree) the amount of light that's transmitted through the lens. The XtraVisions are clear glass. But ... the key factor for me was the bulb life. The SilverStars have a rated life of 150 hours for the low beam and 50 hours for the high beam. The XtraVisions are rated for 850 hours low beam and 200 hours high beam. The wattage is the same: 65 watts high beam, 55 watts low beam. (The factory sealed beams were rated at 65 watts high beam but only 35 watts low beam.) Considering that the XtraVisions put out the same light as the Silverstars (or more!), cost less, and last orders of magnitude longer ... it was an easy decision to make IMHO.