Eagle

It's not all unicorn talk. There is (or was) also another Youtube video by "Minimopar" that dissected oil filters and found Fram to be about the worst of the lot. But the real evidence is the huge numbers of Jeepers who have reported oil pressure problems, cold start knocks, and other symptoms that disappeared once they switched from Fram to a good filter. Don't ... use ... FRAM ... filters.

Check the two front and one rear flex hose. The panic stop may have ruptured the inner membrane but not (yet) blown out the outer.

Comanches usually had a factory "build sheet" concealed in them that listed all the codes for the standard and optional equipment on the vehicle. The two places must people have found this sheet are under the seat (inside the seat, up in the spring area), and inside the driver's door. But this list only shows what was installed at the factory, it won't show options that were installed at the dealership at the time of sale. The water could be from the rear window, or it could be entering where the major electrical connector for the fuse panel passes through the firewall. Or, possibly, the windshield.

well ill be re doing the fuel system so the charcoal can go to and no ac ect and my 4x4 isnt vacuum controlled so I'm good there. as far as the regulator goes, I'm having a custom fuel rail made so i can mount a boost referenced FPR. but cool looks like i know what I'm doing Saturday!! lol As Nori mentioned, the heat/vent controls are vacuum operated. So is your 4WD, but there are ways to get around that.

Back when milk companies still delivered and milk crates were made of wood and metal instead of plastic, I used a milk crate for a seat in my '47 Hudson pickup for awhile.

The spring rates are significantly different. However, the metric ton springs have either one or two extra leaves, so whether just the main leaf might be the same is anybody's guess. My guess would not ... probably not the same.

Chrysler-Jeep's motivation doesn't matter. If they don't even tell their dealers what the specs are, where would you look for them? In past years, there were people who posted periodically on NAXJA about having had their flywheels resurfaced, and the results were always horror stories. Of course, I'm sure that was because the shops milled them flat, but there was a reason why Jeep said not to machine them.

I don't know if specs are available. The FSM says the flywheel should not be resurfaced, only replaced.

If the difference was the same as for Cherokees, the optional heavy-duty suspension got gas shocks and thestandard suspension had conventional (non-gas) shocks.

It's not as hilly around me as it is around Frank the Dog, but it's not exactly "level," either. And while we have some 65 MPH highways, we have more 55 MPH highways around here. With a Renix 4.0L and 3.07 gears, 5th gear is useless under 55 MPH so anywhere but on the highway (and even there to go up some hills) 4th gear is what sees the most use. 3.55s or 3.73s would allow more use of 5th gear and that would probably help the overall fuel economy more than it hurts. Everyone's driving conditions are style are different. Gear choice is not a one-size-fits-all proposition.

1987 thru 1990 are the Renix years. You can use the ECU from any of those years. I believe '89 and '90 are considered to be a slight upgrade for performance.

If it fits, I'll be amazed. Why would Jeep have created a third tank size for the shortbed if they could have used the same tanks they were already using in the longbed?

Well, I guess it's my job to be the resident contrarian. I certainly agree that Jeep needs to be making a pickup again. A pickup based on the Wrangler? No way. Ugly, stupid, and impractical. I'm not even a little bit interested. And, given that it's based on the obscenely over-priced Wrangler, we can also be assured that the new PU will be obscenely over-priced.

The 23.5 gallon tank will NOT fit a short-bed Comanche.

There's a lot more to highway MPG than just RPM. My '88 Cherokee is a 4.0L 5-speed. Around here we don't have any 70+ MPH highways -- the fastest legal speed is 65 MPH, so that's what I drive. Can't afford tickets, or what they would do to my insurance premiums. 65 MPH in 5th (overdrive) is 1821 RPM. The same speed in 4th is 2428. I have run controlled tests. My gas mileage in 4th is the same as it is in 5th. The reality is that, overall, I would probably get better gas mileage with 3.55 gears or even 3.73s than I do with the factory 3.07s.

I have to disagree with Noriyori. I don't think 3.55 gears is "pushing" anything. You probably already have either 3.55s or 3.73s, and before making any changes you need to determine for certain what you have now. Unlike most of you grasshoppers, I'm old enough to remember when overdrive wasn't even a high-priced option in automobiles. Most vehicles back "in the day" were geared from the factory to run somewhere around 24 miles per hour per 1000 RPM. To put that in perspective, 60 MPH was 2500 RPM, and 3000 RPM was a comfortable 72 MPH cruise. The engines didn't burn up at those speeds -- after all, the redline was still 5,000 or 5,500 RPM, so 3000 RPM was well below the redline. Your choice of axle ratio should be based on your tire size and the fastest speed you normally drive on the highway. If you'll be going to a 3.4L V6, I think using 3,000 RPM as your benchmark for highway cruise is a good starting point. Here's a link to the tire size and RPM spreadsheet I crated a number of years ago. Pick your tire size, then look down the table for that tire size to see what RPMs the engine will turn at each speed. For the A904 tranny, ignore the overdrive columns and use the 1:1 columns. I don't know what "pretty stock" tires means, but let's assume you're rolling on 225/75-15s and your highway speed is 70 MPH. 3.45 gears will have the engine turning 3015 RPM at 70, 3.73 gears will raise that to 3177, and 4.10s will raise it to 3492. If you don't do a lot of high speed highway driving, 3.73s might be a good, all-around gear choice. for easy swaps, though, axles already set up with 4.10s may be easier to find. Again, if you don't do a lot of highway cruising 4.10s would probably be much nicer to drive around, and even 3500 RPM probably won't kill an engine for a long time. Link: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html

All 1984-1989 Cherokees and 1987-1989 Comanches had 10-inch drum brakes in the rear. The difference was that the standard brakes were 10"x1-3/4" drums. Those with the Dana 44, and maybe the police option (which was obviously only on Cherokees, not Comanches) were 10"x2-1/2".

Those are unusual for a Dana 35. Most D35s have 1-3/4" drums. The wider ones are basically D44 brakes. I've heard of them on the D35 but I've never seen one set up that way. Pretty sure the spreader bar (#5 in the diagram) and the parking brake lever (#6) are the same. The hold-down pins for the shoes are different, and the backing plates are different. And the wheel cylinders are different, of course.

With only 85,000 miles on the clock? What would a used Ranger or S-10 with that many miles, and rust-free, cost? (Regardless of year - just considering mileage and condition.)

In terms of physical fit and lining up, any 4.0L will fit -- up to a 2001 Choerokee or whatever year Wrangler or Grand Cherokee still had the 4.0L engine. Sensors and fuel injection aren't all the same, though.

Very nice. I envy you for finding it.

What's "nostalgic" about staying spring-under with non-factory springs and a U-bolt flip?

Don't drop the pitman arm unless you also drop the frame end of the track bar. To avoid bump steer, the track bar and the drag link need to be at the same angle. Not by looking at it, since the track bar has that big bend in it, but the direct line between the two end fittings of each bar.

Correction: The factory headlights are 35 watts on low beam. Sylvania Basic headlamps are the same. The Xtravisions are 55 watts low beam and 65 watts high beam. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sylvania-h6054-xtravision-sealed-beam-box-of-1-h6054xvbx/5081742-P#fragment-2

He will also need the '91 fuel level sender from the tank, and he'll have to deal with the reversed polarity of the fuel gauge.