Eagle

I prefer Sylvania Xtra Visions (I think that's what they're called). same light output as the SilverStars, but longer bulb life and cheaper cost.

Which seems to confirm that your jumpers probably fried the fusible link ...

Amica. Usually very good to deal with, but ... "Ve haf rrrrooools!"

Have the insurance company find another jeep exactly like yours for the money they want to give you , bet you they won't , they'll give you some reasons why they won't . I thought insurance companies were supposed to get you to the point you were before the accident ... That used to be what they were supposed to do. The primary objective for all modern insurance company's is to determine how to pay out as little as possible (or nothing at all) by finding whatever loophole they can. Yes, but I offered to effectively increase my deductible so the insurance company would pay less and I could keep my Jeep with a clean title ... and they refused. If I can't convince them to assign it a higher value ... I'm screwed.

^^^ This.

1. For a relay to work, it needs power to two terminals -- the main power input terminal, and the "signal" input terminal. The main power input is hot at all times *(or should be). The relay is an electronic switch -- the input side of the "signal" circuit is only powered when you activate the switch or whatever it is that's supposed to operate the relay. So if you're just standing next to the fender and probing the relay socket -- you won't have power to the signal side of the relay unless someone (or something, in the case of the latch relay) activates the circuit. 2. Here's an explanation of what the latch relay does, and I don't think it would cause a no-start: http://www.justanswer.com/jeep/7l0xs-function-power-lacth-relay-88-jeep.html 3. You are still using confusing terminology. "Crank" and "turn over" mean the same thing -- the starter motor is engaged and turning the crankshaft. If it cranks, it turns over. If you mean it won't start, that's "won't start" or "doesn't fire." 4. Assuming Gogmorgo is correct and that relay socket you're probing is fed by a fusible link -- you may have burned out the fusible link.

The starter relay has nothing to do with spark. How are you testing for spark if it won't crank?

So this is what I got, what I can see from here is that I have part 12 the cam cancelling w/o tilt and all I need is the retainer (13) and pin (15) Correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Looks to me like your index marks aren't aligned. They put those on there for a reason.

Hood RF fender RF fender liner Header Grille RF Headlight assembly RF Parking light assembly Bumper RF bumper end cap Front air dam/chin spoiler (whatever they call it) RF factory fog light Inner fender (engine compartment wall) bent -- can be straightened RF radiator support That's about it. I don't have a copy of the written estimate, I'm going by what I could see was damaged.

Have the insurance company find another jeep exactly like yours for the money they want to give you , bet you they won't , they'll give you some reasons why they won't . I thought insurance companies were supposed to get you to the point you were before the accident . That's what I thought, too. Apparently we were wrong. E-mail from the person handling my claim at the company: "We pay on a total loss as Actual Cash Value and not replacement cost." Of course, my counter argument is that it isn't a total loss if they use a fair actual cash value -- which is why I appreciate all the links you lads have sent me to other Cherokees for sale. I can't use links to modified XJs for this purpose, but a couple of the links to stock vehicles are outstanding -- and they still don't come close to what mine is (ahem ... "was"). So far, though, even with the comparable vehicles information, my arguments have fallen on deaf ears. Wish me luck.

It's not old enough for Early American tags in Connecticut. And the classic car insurance companies won't insure vehicles with 4WD, even if they have early American tags -- I went through that with two Comanches.

Link to the '88 electrical manual: http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me, but I believe someone has posted a link to the '88 electrical manual on this forum, and the '87 4-banger should be about the same as the '88. Your two relays are, I think, a fuel pump relay and a starter relay. The relay (and socket) have five terminals, of which only four are used. To help you diagnose this, we need to know which two you're jumping. Also need to know if you have tested the signal side of the relay and socket for power when trying to crank. But the starter relay only affects cranking. I don't think it would prevent firing. Are you sure there's no spark? Maybe the relay you're jumping is the fuel pump relay and the problem is no fuel. Which relay are you jumping -- the forward one, or the rearward one?

I don't know if they'll accept any values other than whatever book they use. My argument is that mine has zero rust, has never seen salted, winter roads, and has exceptionally low mileage, so I would have to look all over the country to find anything even remotely comparable. I don't know if the argument will work, but it's the only argument I have, so I have to play it.

Only two relays? What engine and transmission do you have? And which contact for the relay lost power, the signal contact, or the power contact?

I don't even understand the problem. The '87 MJ does not have anything called an "ignition lockout relay circuit." Then, you write that it would turn over (which means "cranl"), but then you wrote that you had to jumper the relay before it would crank (which means "turn over"). Please explain the problem better, and tell us which relay you're talking about.

Thanks, guys, keep 'em coming. Some good ones in there. No links to lifted or modified vehicles, please. Mine is pure, box stock, just as it drove out of the showroom. I need to show them high prices for comparable, similar vehicles. Or, better yet, high prices for vehicles that aren't as nice as mine was (:sniff: boo-hoo.) Gotta be stock, not lifted, modified, or customized. Thanks.

Insurance company wants to total my 2000 XJ Sport. They value it at $5400 and the repair estimate is almost exactly that amount. This is a VERY rare 2000 XJ 4.0L with a 5-speed, Up Coutry suspension, cruise control, a/c, remote electric locks, alloys, full-size spare -- the works. There isn't a nick or door ding on it, and it only has 40,000 miles on it. There's NO WAY I can buy a comparable vehicle for anything approaching $5400. I want to fight them on the value. If those of you in states outside of the rust belt could check your regional Craigs List and send me links to any late-model, low-mileage Cherokees with prices of $6,000 or higher, I'd appreciate it. Please check ASAP -- I don't know if the insurance company is working on Monday, but I hope not. I need to intercept the agent handling the claim before she declares it a total, and I need backup. Thanks.

Yay! Good job. I think that same juice works in the full-time NP249 transfer case in the ZJ Grand Cherokee.

I agree... I've never found a reason to ever need anything other then lead lip weights. Conventional balancing is only as good as the guy running the machine. Uneven wear changes the balance. Losing a weight ruins the balance. Large, wide tires are very difficult to balance, and tend not to stay balanced. The advantage to the BBs is that it's a self-correcting, self regulating system.

I've heard of it but I don't know anyone who has done it. Question: How do you know which BBs are biodegradable?

Grab it! Somebody will want it, some day. The price is certainly right.

Welcome to the Borg. You have been assimilated. That's a nice, clean truck and I think you got it for a very decent price. Considering what pickups are selling for these days, $3,000 for anything that runs and isn't a rolling heap of rust flakes is a pretty good deal.

The spare tire winch uses the factory jack handle to operate it. The jack and handle should be strapped to the rear wall of the cab, behind the driver's seat.

Dunno, and the XJ is now 15 or 20 miles away. Dark blue -- I think for 2000 they called it Patriot Blue. Send me a PM with your work phone and I'll pass it on to the shop.