Eagle

Here ya go: This doesn't show the axle end, but this is what the arm should look like when connected. Even better: http://comancheclub.com/topic/45839-mj-height-sensing-brake-proportioning-valve-adjustment-procedure/

No, it's swinging across the vehicle centerline, correct? You wrote that it swings left to right. The basic position for it should be swung to the right (passenger side) and up, so the arm is parallel to the ground.

You have an '86, which is pretty much a unique animal. Your transfer case could be one of two, and for the MJ those two were used ONLY in 1986. Do you have Command-Trac or Selec-Trac? You're saying the light doesn't come on when 4WD is engaged, but the whole purpose of the light is to tell you when 4WD is engaged. If the light isn't coming on -- are you certain the light is the problem? How have you verified that 4WD has really engaged? BTW -- your photo of the right side panel seems to show a clock. You might want to reconsider drilling holes in it -- you might destroy the clock circuit board (I'm not sure how much space it uses internally). You have a full gauge cluster -- what other gauges do you want?

That's the load sensing (or height sensing) proportioning valve for the rear brakes. The purpose is to reduce pressure to the rear brakes when the truck isn't loaded, so the rear brakes don't lock up too soon and cause you to spin out. As the bed is loaded, the bed drops relative to the axle, causing the arm to move and increase the amount of pressure to the rear brakes. However, that swinging arm is supposed to be horizontal, and there should be a connector link to a ball stud on the differential housing. Yours appears to have been disconnected by some previous owner. There are photos in other threads here that show how it's supposed to look. Do some poking around in this discussion area and the D.I.Y. area, or maybe someone who remembers where to find the photos will jump in with a link.

Good news that he got it working. If the "new" cluster came from a 6-cylinder, the tach probably doesn't read correcttly. The good news is that that style cluster is the newer style ("newer" as it relates to the Renix years, with the mechanical speedometer), and those have a potentiometer on the back of the tachometer that can be used to adjust it to read correctly for a 4-cylinder. If it came from a 4-cylinder, no adjustment should be required.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/search/?text=Brake%20master%20cylinder&isApplication=true&isInterchange=true&referer=herofitmentForm-newveh#

The tachometer is electronic, not mechanical. It receives electrical pulses and "counts" them, converting that into an RPM reading. The electrical pulses for the tachometer come from the ignition. What it's doing is counting how many times the coil sends a spark to the spark plugs.

It will 'work' even if it's the wrong one. It just reads incorrectly. ^^^ What he said.

There's an entire forum dedicated to the 4.0L stroker engines. I've lost the link to it but I'm sure Hornbrod has it.

If I remember correctly, there are two contacts where the tach head attaches to the printed circuit. Under the hood, there are two small, yellow "thingies" (highly technical term there) with flip caps on them. Inside, there are contacts for running some basic diagnostics. The smaller of the two has six terminals (receptacles). That's the one with the feed for testing the tach. You can check it by taking the cluster out of the dashboard and running jumpers from the test terminals to the tach head. I'm not set up to scan the diagram of the diagnostic connector. As drawn, it shows two columns and three rows. The right side of the block has two notches cut out of it. Oriented that way, top right is #1, #2 below that, #3 bottom right ... then #4 top left, #5 below that, and #6 bottom left. #1 is the positive tach feed. #3 is the ECU ground -- you can use that for the tach ground, or just ground it to the engine block.

The seal inside the master cylinder is leaking. You'll have to replace the master cylinder.

The 0331 heads were the first to have the bosses for mounting the coil-on-rail coil packs. All 4.0L engines before 1999 for the Grand and 2000 for the XJ used a conventional coil. If the head doesn't have mounting bosses for the coil pack bolts, it's not an 0331.

He replaced them. Does act like a secondary ignition issue though. Sorry -- I missed that.

Check your spark plug wires. If they are the originals, the insulation may have broken down and they may be losing spark energy to any metal they pass near. When this happens, it feels like a misfire -- mostly because it is a misfire.

The gears and chain should be the same, from what I've seen. For reasons known only to some AMC engineers who may be long dead, the deck height on the 2.5L is just a bit less than on the 4.0L, so a timing chain that would be taut in a 4.0L is slack in a 2.5L. So for the 2.5L they used a tensioner inside the timing cover. It's not uncommon for the tensioner to wear out before the chain.

We're talking about spinning the oil pump shaft with a drill, not the engine.

How is an oil pump going to start picking up oil if there's nothing between the gears but air? What you are describing is a self-priming pump, and automotive oil pumps are not self-priming.

Things haven't changed that much. The AMC FSMs from the mid-1960s said to pack a new oil pump with Vaseline as a way of getting a prime.

Pretty neat. I wish I had known about that twenty years ago.

Not in this corner of the world. At least, not when I was crewing on the stock car. Even a new engine that we knew had assembly lube on the cam, cam bearings, crank and rod bearings, and cylinder walls got the oil pump spun over with a drill until we had positive oil pressure. Until we saw oil pressure, the engine was only cranked over by hand.

That's incorrect. The early 4.0L engines used a multi-part pan gasket that had to be sealed with silicone where the parts met. Often, it didn't work. Somewhere in the 90s Jeep changed to a one-piece pan gasket. The newer gasket works on all years and is far superior to the old, multi-part gasket.

If the oil pump has lost its prime, I don't see how spinning the shaft with a drill is going to help anything. All you're doing is trying to pump air with a pump made for viscous liquids. But -- whatever you don, DON'T crank the engine any more. The cylinder walls are dry, the bearings are dry, the camshaft is dry ... everything is dry, and has no lubrication. See if you can rig up some Rube Goldberg arrangement to force feed some heavy oil back through the oil pressure sender hole to get oil back into the system, then try spinning the pump with the drill.

The tenth digit of the VIN is the year. But ... the VIN system changed from 1988 to 1989. Explained here: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/jeep-vin.html Your VIN is 1 J 7 F T 3 6 L 3 K L 445397 1 = Country of Origin (USA) J = Make (Jeep Company) 7 = Vehicle Type (Truck) F = Gross vehicle weight (4,001 - 5,000 pounds) T = Model Line (my FSM says T is a 2WD Cherokee) 3 = Trim Level (Pioneer)(Another source says Chief) 6 = Body Style (???) L = Engine (4.0L) 3 = Check Digit K = Model Year (1989) L = Assembly Plant (Toledo, Plant #1) 445397 = Serial number This site makes it easy, but isn't specific as to how they do it: https://www.decodethis.com/vin/1J7FT36L3KL445397 I've looked into three different FSMs and about six web sites. They are NOT all consistent as to what some of the code mean. They do all seem to agree that you have a 1989 Jeep.

Considering that Santa Claus is between 500 and 1600 years old (depending on which tradition you regard as correct for his origins), he's probably seen a few things ol' Timmy hasn't even thought of yet. It's like they say, age and treachery beats youth and vigor every time.

Even if it was a Comanche? Or especially if it was a Comanche? :) A 1971 Comanche would be quite rare ...