Eagle

That sounds like a plan.

Many (most?) ZJs had CV joints, not u-joints.

Yeah. Isn't it ironic -- the liberals have been trying for years to get rid of guns. Now we get a President they don't like, so THEY are the ones rioting in the streets and then THEY start buying guns because they don't feel "safe." Don't they understand that if we were going to shoot them we would have done it years ago? If there's anything more dangerous than a liberal, it's a liberal with a gun.

Merry Christmas / Happy Chanukah / Happy Solstice o all our members. May your trees and menorahs shine brightly and bring peace and happiness into your lives.

4-banger with a 5-speed? AMC used to sell 2.5L MJs with a 4-speed and 3.54 gears ...

You can think that but you'd be wrong. I have owned an '84 Cherokee, a couple of 86 Comanches, an 87 Cherokee and an 87 Comanche, several 88s, an 89 or two (Cheroekee and Comanche, and a few others right up through the 2001 Cherokee. None of them had a hood ornament.

i`ll keep that in mind, swaping impelers may do except for the closed cooling system There's absolutely nothing wrong with the closed cooling system. A LOT of vehicles use it these days.

How to calculate lift from a SOA conversion:

Yes. The retaining ring has three ears on it that you tap with a punch to loosen and tighten it. CAUTION: You're working on a gasoline container. The fumes are explosive. The FSM (Factory Service manual) says to use a BRASS punch to avoid sparks that can set off an explosion.

Yes, for an '86 that frame looks exceptionally clean and solid. I am jealous.

J. C. Whitney has always sold adapters that allow you to use a second pair of factory wheels to run as duallies. The axle under that truck looks like a normal Dana 44, so I'll take a guess that he's just using aftermarket adapters.

I guess there can't be an overall picture. The ad says it has an 8-foot bed -- his camera probably doesn't go wide enough to get more than a 7-foot bed into one frame. Between the dual wheels and the 8-foot bed, this is a rare truck -- it's probably a bargain at $10,500.

The horizontal shocks are to control axle wrap.

The potentiometer is the white plastic thing that in the first photo says "103T" on it and has a + shaped opening, for a Phillips screwdriver. It doesn't have any leads -- it's soldered to the circuit board. If your tachometer has one, it's calibrated for 4-cyliner or 6-cylinder by turning that + shaped thingie. My friend in Greece went through that. What he found was that the adjustment range was basically all the way to one limit of travel for 4-cylinder, and all the way to the opposite limit for 6-cylinder. Depending on which way you're going (4 to 6, or 6 to 4), the difference is either a factor of 1.5: 1, or .67:1.Your tach is off a LOT more than that. Assuming your swapped-in engine idles at something like a normal idle speed, that's around 800 RPM. So a 6-cylinder tach should read 800 RPM. A 4-cylinder tach would read 1200 RPM. Yours reads 3500 RPM ... "calibration" is not your problem, there's something else going on.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/replacement-gauge-cluster-needles-221183.html

And, lastly, on the first generation clusters the instruments did not go to zero when you shut off the ignition. They stayed wherever they were pointing when the power was shut off. I'm not 100% certain that applied for the 1986 model year, but I know that was the case with the '84 XJ Wagoneer I once had.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Body/Hinges.htm

Snow is the opposite of sand -- you DON'T want soft tires to try to "float" over the surface, you want the tires to dig down through the snow to something solid. Higher pressures (street pressures) are good. Narrow tires are better in snow than narrow tires, but ... you've got what you've got.

Is the upper hinge pulling away from the door post, or does it just need new hinge pins?

One thing you can do with an idle tach (or any aftermarket tach you can hook up) is to see if a change in throttle results in the same change on both tachs. Say your dashboard tach reads 3500 RPM at idle, and an external tach reads 800 RPM. Move the throttle enough to bump the reading on the aftermarket tach to ... let's say ... 1500 RPM. That's a change of 700 RPM. Then you look at the dash and see if the tach in your cluster also moved by 700 RPM -- if it was 3500, it should now be reading 4200 RPM. Then run the idle tach up another 500 or 1000 RPM, and see if the tach in the cluster also changes by 500 or 1000 RPM. If the change is consistent, then the tach in the cluster is reading properly but the needle isn't positioned correctly. I ***THINK*** (based on reading posts about installing decals to make the gauges into white-faced instruments) that you can carefully pull the needle off and reposition it.

An idle tachometer is a hand-held diagnostic instrument. You would know if you have one because it would be in a drawer or on a shelf in your garage or workshop.

Full name is San Carlos de Bariloches. If driving from Chile, head south from Santiago to Osorno, spend a night in Osorno (or nearby), then head east to cross into Argentina and San Carlos.

Do you have an idle tachometer? Your second photo shows it reading 3600 RPM at idle -- it should be about 750 RPM. You need to compare what this tach is reading against a tachometer that you know is reasonably accurate.

You wrote that you have a 2.5L. Do you have a serpentine belt, or conventional V- belts? If you have V-belts, you need a water pump with "forward" rotation. If you have a serpentine belt, you need a water pump with reverse rotation. They share a housing and bolt pattern, because both can go on the same engine. You'll need to verify which pump you got.

My late wife was from Chile. I've seen a LOT of Chile (except for the very southern part -- wife said it's cold down there). Also saw Macchu Picchu, and a place named San Carlos in Argentina that was a lot like being in the Swiss Alps.