Eagle

Note that the diagram shows one screw -- there are three. The steering column has an index mark. I hope you didn't obliterate it when pulling the 2-spoke wheel. You'll need it to correctly align the "new" wheel.

Yes, worn pins would allow you to feel the door moving when you lift it. The doors are attached to the hinges with aligning shims. You may just need to play with the shims.

Easy swap. The horn mechanisms are different -- make sure you get all the small parts, and print up a diagram showing how they go together.

Don't know what it needs yet. I dropped it at the shop this morning. What I can see it will need is: Header Grille RF headlight assembly RF parking light assembly RF side marker assembly Front bumper RF bumper extension/cap RF inner fender liner RF fender Front lower air dam J E E P letters for the header Possibly a RF fog light. Lens isn't broken, but the bracket may be mangled Won't know until they get into it whether or not the radiator and/or a/c condenser need to be replaced.

Beautiful truck, and some nice scenery for your "get acquainted" ride.

As "Duke" Wayne is reputed to have said, "A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do." So you're out of the MJ parts business, but you're still part of the Comanche Club family, so stick around. Check in periodically to say hello so we don't have to say mean things about you behind your back.

Nope. First, I had the vehicle professionally rustproofed as soon as I bought it. Second, until this year (and only because the other one was in the shop) it has never been driven in winter, so no exposure to road salt.

I've heard that but nobody has ever (to my knowledge) articulated a reason. Doesn't matter to me -- I don't have ABS and I hope I never do. Just another (expensive) solution in search of a problem.

No. As has already been noted, Silicone brake fluid is DOT 5. The synthetic DOT 3 and DOT 4 are just that -- synthetic versions of conventional brake fluid. A friend and I were discussing just last night whether or not the synthetic stuff attracts moisture as much as the standard DOT 3 and DOT 4 -- neither of us knows, and we don't know how to find out. I've had silicone brake fluid in the brakes and the clutch of my old '88 XJ for at least 15 years. It's great stuff, and now I'm mentally kicking myself for being to lazy to have switched the new XJ over to it as soon as I brought it home in 2000.

Folks -- either use silicone brake fluid, or flush your brake system annually. I have a 2000 XJ Sport 5-speed that I bought new at the end of the 2000 model run. Jeep made very few 5-speed Cherokees that year -- mine is one of only 2 in all of New England, according to my dealer. I've been doing my best to preserve it -- it only has 40,000 miles on it. Because of a transfer case problem with the other 2000 XJ, I have been driving the Sport for the last few days. Yesterday (Tuesday) I drove it to work, which on Tuesday happened to be at a construction site that's a bit more than 80 miles up-state (each way). Traffic is light in the morning because I have to leave very early, but it's a nightmare on the way home. Last night, as I approached the exit from one highway to switch over to a different highway, traffic was very slow and bumper-to-bumper. Being my usual olde pharte self, I was trying to keep plenty of space between me and the vehicle in front. A young woman wanted to take the same exit, but she didn't feel like joining the queue so she came up in the center lane, saw the space I had in front of me, and jumped into it. She was going to fast, though, and had to slam on her brakes to not hit the car in front. I stood on my brakes -- and a brake line popped. BIG ouchie. We were going slow enough that my airbags didn't deploy, but the right front corner was manged badly enough that I had to be towed. This Cherokee has spent most of its life in a garage, and I had it professionally rust-proofed when I first bought it. I'm sure the brake line rusted from the inside due to the hygroscopic nature of conventional brake fluid. I'm angry at myself because I always had intentions of converting it to silicone, I have the silicone brake fluid sitting on a shelf ... and I just never got around to doing it. Don't let the same thing happen to you. Silicone brake fluid doesn't attract water vapor like regular brake fluid. It's not cheap, but once you use it you should only need to replace it when you do a brake job. It's a lot cheaper than rebuilding the front end of a vehicle you can't hardly find parts for.

That sounds like a plan.

Many (most?) ZJs had CV joints, not u-joints.

Yeah. Isn't it ironic -- the liberals have been trying for years to get rid of guns. Now we get a President they don't like, so THEY are the ones rioting in the streets and then THEY start buying guns because they don't feel "safe." Don't they understand that if we were going to shoot them we would have done it years ago? If there's anything more dangerous than a liberal, it's a liberal with a gun.

Merry Christmas / Happy Chanukah / Happy Solstice o all our members. May your trees and menorahs shine brightly and bring peace and happiness into your lives.

4-banger with a 5-speed? AMC used to sell 2.5L MJs with a 4-speed and 3.54 gears ...

You can think that but you'd be wrong. I have owned an '84 Cherokee, a couple of 86 Comanches, an 87 Cherokee and an 87 Comanche, several 88s, an 89 or two (Cheroekee and Comanche, and a few others right up through the 2001 Cherokee. None of them had a hood ornament.

i`ll keep that in mind, swaping impelers may do except for the closed cooling system There's absolutely nothing wrong with the closed cooling system. A LOT of vehicles use it these days.

How to calculate lift from a SOA conversion:

Yes. The retaining ring has three ears on it that you tap with a punch to loosen and tighten it. CAUTION: You're working on a gasoline container. The fumes are explosive. The FSM (Factory Service manual) says to use a BRASS punch to avoid sparks that can set off an explosion.

Yes, for an '86 that frame looks exceptionally clean and solid. I am jealous.

J. C. Whitney has always sold adapters that allow you to use a second pair of factory wheels to run as duallies. The axle under that truck looks like a normal Dana 44, so I'll take a guess that he's just using aftermarket adapters.

I guess there can't be an overall picture. The ad says it has an 8-foot bed -- his camera probably doesn't go wide enough to get more than a 7-foot bed into one frame. Between the dual wheels and the 8-foot bed, this is a rare truck -- it's probably a bargain at $10,500.

The horizontal shocks are to control axle wrap.

The potentiometer is the white plastic thing that in the first photo says "103T" on it and has a + shaped opening, for a Phillips screwdriver. It doesn't have any leads -- it's soldered to the circuit board. If your tachometer has one, it's calibrated for 4-cyliner or 6-cylinder by turning that + shaped thingie. My friend in Greece went through that. What he found was that the adjustment range was basically all the way to one limit of travel for 4-cylinder, and all the way to the opposite limit for 6-cylinder. Depending on which way you're going (4 to 6, or 6 to 4), the difference is either a factor of 1.5: 1, or .67:1.Your tach is off a LOT more than that. Assuming your swapped-in engine idles at something like a normal idle speed, that's around 800 RPM. So a 6-cylinder tach should read 800 RPM. A 4-cylinder tach would read 1200 RPM. Yours reads 3500 RPM ... "calibration" is not your problem, there's something else going on.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/replacement-gauge-cluster-needles-221183.html