Eagle

I think Eastwood says to dump in a bunch of sheetrock screws and shake them around for awhile to knock off the loose rust.

Here's the cutaway view: As you can see below, it's the same switch in an XJ proportioning valve:

Eastwood has a kit to line fuel tanks with epoxy to seal against rust.

It's not a sensor, it's a plunger switch. You can use one out of any Cherokee or Grand Cherokee. The switch is the same for all of them, although the valve/block bodies are different.

Good question, and I don't know enough to make an informed suggestion. I think I would disconnect them "out of an abundance of caution."

Looks to me like the rear flares are several inches short of extending to the bottom of the sheet metal -- which is exactly what I expected. I guess your definition of "fits just fine" is different from mine.

^^^ Agreed.

2-door or 4-door, the XJ rear wheel openings are smaller in every dimension than the MJ. They won't fit.

If you're at 3" over stock now, with the new axle and settlement you'll be at 2" to 2-1/2". So to net another 1" of lift with a shackle you need a shackle that's 2" longer than stock. These things are 8" long at minimum. The stock shackles are around 4-1/2" eye-to-eye, so this Ironman thing is at least 3-1/2" longer. That means it will create 1-3/4" (or more) lift compared to a stock shackle.

A rebuilt 2.5L would be the least expensive route, as well as the easiest. But ... in terms of difficulty, a 4.0L swap would cost more because you would have to also obtain a matching transmission, as well as a new ECU and wiring harness, but the cost of freshening up a 4.0L shouldn't be orders of magnitude greater than a 2.5L. They are, after all, basically the same engine. In fact, I'm struggling with the same decision right now. And I'm no closer to a decision today than I was eight months ago when all Jeep projects came to a screeching halt when I was admitted to the hospital for an acute gallbladder attack. I need to decide soon so I can start gearing up for the project this summer.

Ah, so. Sic transit gloria mundi. So maybe the best option is to just pop in a factory instrument cluster ... which the OP has stated he doesn't want to do.

The "bumper hitch" with the 2,000 pound limit was the factory step bumper. My guess is that the OP's receiver/bumper is at least as substantial as any Class II hitch that was sold for the MJ. Ditto the mounting -- all the aftermarket MJ Class II hitches mounted to the sides of the frame rails with those same three bolts on each side that the factory bumper mounted to. That said ... the MJ (and the XJ) was never rated to tow 5,000 pounds with a standard transmission. The 5,000-pound tow pacjage was only with the AW4 automatic, with heavy-duty cooling system and an external tranny cooler.

Spend the money for a Sun Super Tach and don't look back.

With an AX-15 I believe the MJ was rated to tow only 2,000 or 2,500 pounds.

Correct. That wire on the distribution block is for the brake system warning light. When one circuit (front or rear) loses pressure, there's a shuttle valve that slides inside the distribution block to close that switch. The reset procedure is to stomp on the brakes HARD and sharply a couple of times to reset the shuttle valve to the center position.

Where did you find info on an inductive pickup? I didn't see any link to instructions on the AutoZone site, and the OP said it came with "a thing to splice into the tach wire," so I assumed it came with "a thing to splice into the tach wire."

If you have to splice into the tach feed wire, it doesn't have inductive pickup. There's also a tach signal in one of the yellow diagnostic connectors. Try poking the green wire in there. http://www.bteventures.com//mj1988electricalmanual.pdf Scroll to page 19 for the diagnostic connector pinouts.

There was a special Jeep tool for separating the upper and lower halves of the shifter. Several years ago the shop foreman at my dealer told me they never, ever used it, and they finally threw it out to make room in the tool crip for tools that fit the newer vehicles.

Yes that's it and yes I did as you said and it did nothing Then it appears you got a defective unit. Take it back.

Its a basic 40$ tach you can buy at auto zone. Think its like a auto guage? Does it have a brand name? Not that it matters, it sounds like the color coding of the wires is fairly standard. Did you try the check-out procedure I posted? This one? http://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gauge-accessories/tachometer/equus-3-3-8-in-black-bezel-electric-tachometer/255933_0_0?checkfit=true

Sounds like a Sun Super Tach http://leverfamilysite.com/images/PDF_Files/Microsoft%20Word%20-%20Sun%20Tack%20How%20do%20I%20hook%20up%20the%20wires.pdf Note that these instructions say to connect to the negative terminal on the coil. I have a Sun Super Tach in the '88 Chief. The instructions include a basic function test before making the final installation. The test instructions are: Clip the black lead to the negative battery terminal. Clip the red lead to the positive battery terminal. Clip the green lead to the negative terminal of the coil, or the tach signal point [which you can also tap off the appropriate terminal in one of the two diagnostic test blocks -- you can find that in the factory electrical manual on-line] When all [three] connections have been made, start the engine. Confirm the operation of the tachometer.

Actually, 31s will fit (on OEM Jeep rims) with no lift at all, and work very well with a 2-inch budget boost. Once you go higher than 2 inches you start to need other things, such as control arms and adjustable track bars. I bought my '88 Chief with a 4-inch lift and drop brackets, and I wheeled it like that on 31s for a couple or three years. Then I had an attack of sanity, removed the lift, and I was much happier.

Where did you find dimensions? I didn't see any specs when I clicked your link.

So what? The bushing that comes in the shackle doesn't fit the spring, it's the frame end. If it'll hold up a full-size pickup, it'll hold up a Comanche. There's also a Chevy shackle that's virtually identical to the MJ shackle, but I don't remember what year or model it fits, and I don't have a part number.

You seem to be approaching this in reverse. The usual sequence is to (1) find that certain trails require more ground clearance than your rig provides; (2) select a larger tire size (and wheel size if the tires are too large for OEM wheels; and then (3) select the amount of lift necessary to run the selected tire size. Before I would consider trying to answer your question, I would want to know why you think it's necessary to lift your truck, and how you arrived at the choice of a 3" to 3-1/2" lift.