Eagle

I'll probably buy another matching flasher for the other location this weekend and see if that might fix the problem... if not I guess ill go back to the incandescents Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk That's not the problem. One flasher is for the turn signals, the other is for the hazard warning flashers. They operate independently. Do your hazards work with the LEDs?

The proverbial VAM engines? Weren't those the older 258 c.i.d. engines?

Unless you want to build a 4.7L stroker.

Those are ALL stock shocks, though. Some were direct look-ups in the Monroe catalog, others I chased down through the process I described above. For shocks to fit a 3-1/2" lift, you'll want to find something with a mid-travel length approximately 3 inches longer. Approximately is good enoigh -- going through the Monroe listings, you'll find that the lengths for one series of shock aren't exactly the same as for another, but both are listed for stock vehicles.

I switched my ;88 Cherokee over to aluminum a long time before Mac's came out with the tank you're using. I used a racing surge tank from Moroso, the speed equipment manufacturer. It's a universal, so I had to troll the hardware stores to find the right fittings to make it work. I bolted a length of slotted angle to the pinch seam under the OEM tank location and then attached the Moroso tank to that. I put the overflow catch bottle over next to the air box -- couldn't figure a better place for it, so there it is. It has been there for at least ten years, and it works fine.

Correct. On the "open" system the radiator cap acts as a check valve. Grab a radiator cap and look at it. It has a fairly strong spring that holds the gasket down against the flange inside the radiator neck. That's the pressure seal, and the strength of that spring is what determines the pressure rating of the cap. When the pressure in the system exceeds that value, it forces the gasket off the seat and allows coolant to flow through the overflow tube into the catch bottle. Now we have to have a way of getting the coolant back into the radiator. See that smaller disc in the middle of the gasket? It also has a light spring on it. When the radiator is under pressure, the pressure holds that disc against the gasket and maintains the seal. When the system cools down, now the radiator goes into a slight vacuum. This pulls the small disc away from the gasket and allows coolant to be pulled back from the catch bottle into the radiator. The "closed" system doesn't have any of the overflow/return provisions. It relies on the air space in the plastic bottle to accommodate the expansion. That's why the plastic bottle (if you still have it) must not be filled more than halfway.

I just remembered that I had these from a similar discussion awhile ago. Might help.

Hockey pucks are used if you don't install longer bump stops. Tire size has nothing to do with it. The bump stops are to protect the shock absorbers. If you add more bump stop than necessary to protect the shocks in order to keep big tires from hitting the bodywork, you're limiting suspension travel. Either trim the bodywork ( :eek: EEK!) or run smaller tires.

i was under the impression that open cooling radiators have slighty larger compartiments to hold more coolant than closed ones which makes sense since the closed system has to build up pressure in order to raise the boiling point, which may take longer and/or be less efficient if the radiator had larger compartiments (more room, less pressure) in closed systems these compartiments are slim Both systems have to build up pressure to raise the boiling point. That's why that thing you screw on after you check the coolant level is called a "pressure" cap.

The OEM plastic bottle did NOT have a hose to the ground. If yours did, somebody had screwed with it,and that would explain why it had problems. The OEM plastic bottle (and the Mac's aluminum replacement) is an integral part of the sealed, pressurized cooling system. The cap is a pressure cap, to hold pressure and thus to raise the boiling point of the coolant to around 240 degrees F. When coolant heats up, it expands. In a normal, "open" system, the radiator cap has a two-way spring valve that allows coolant to flow out to a catch bottle, and then allows the coolant to be sucked back into the radiator when it cools down. There should be NO air in the open system. The factory "closed" system has no overflow provision on the pressure cap. To allow for coolant exoansion, the plastic bottle is filled only halfway when cold, and the remaining air space is to allow for expansion. There was no tube to allow coolant to dump to the ground. The Mac's aluminum tank, however, (like the Moroso aluminum tank I use) takes a conventional radiator tank and DOES have a fitting for a tube to an overflow catch bottle. Which means the Mac's tank can (and should) be filled completely rather than leaving half of it empty to allow expansion. http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/8956868+w600+cr1/154_0607_01_z%2bcooling_system_buyers_guide%2bmacs_radiator.jpg If someone modified your plastic tank to allow a tube to atmosphere, they defeated the purpose because it can't hold pressure when there's a vent line open to atmosphere.

how is that? Becauese the surge tank/bottle on the firewall is part of the pressurized system, so that capacity is in addition to the capacity of the radiator.

The installation of the Mac's aluminum tank does, indeed, convert the system to an "open" system. The Mac's bottle is not set up to function as an overflow recovery bottle. The only advantage to buying a new radiator with a cap is that you'll have a new radiator. Personally, I would (and have) replace the leaking radiator with a radiator made for the Renix years, and keep the Mac's tank that you spent good money for. If you installed a Mac's tank, you should already have added a coolant recovery bottle.

The purpose of bump stops is to limit the distance the suspension can travel in compression, so it won't damage other components. If you add a 4-1/2" lift, you'll almost certainly be running longer shock absorbers, and their compressed length will be longer than the space available if the suspension is fully compressed to the original, factory bump stops. So in order to forestall damage to the shocks, you want to limit the suspension travel so it stops before you reach the compressed length of whatever shocks you're running. If you're not going to take it off-road, which are you lifting it?

I've never seen an aluminum storm door with rounded corners, but I didn't say "door," I specifically said "window." Maybe two of these (to get enough pieces with enough length): https://www.lowes.com/pd/Comfort-Bilt-Single-Glazed-Basement-Aluminum-Storm-Window-Rough-Opening-14-1875-in-x-32-1875-in-Actual-32-in-x-14-in/50374468 Not long enough for the bottom rail, so splice two pieces together and add a stiffening rib of small aluminum angle across the inside. You could also look at low-end shower doors.

Get your new control arms installed first, so you can reposition the axle. Then install the springs, using spring compressors.

Why not take your existing locks to a locksmith and have them rekeyed to a newly-cut key?

I think I'd be tempted to buy a length of piano hinge at whatever the Canadian equivalent is of Lowe's or Home Depot, get a sheet of Lexan and a latch, and make my own. Since you already have the piano hinge ... If the Lexan is too floppy for you, what about buying an aluminum storm window, taking it apart, and using the parts to make a frame for the cap window?

Go to the Monroe web site and look up the shock numbers for a stock MJ. Then go to their dimensional charts and find the actual dimensions and end fittings for those shocks: http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf Then look through the listings for shocks with the same end fittings but 3 inches longer. If you're happy with Monroe shocks, your research is complete. If you want a different brand -- look up what vehicle those longer Monroes fit, then search shocks for that vehicle.

I hear what your saying but I just feel like it's a lot of work for something that comes stock in a jeep at that point it would literally be cheaper to buy a 4.0 Comanche and swap my lift and 4.10 rears over But the reality is that a 4.0L (or a stroker) swap is a LOT less work than a V8 conversion from another make.

Castrol Syntec. I ran 5W-50 when they offered it. That seems to have disappeared from the shelves, so now I run 10W40.

Then don't do it. Do a Jeep stroker I-6.

As you might guess from my signature, I'm interested in preserving MJs, not butchering them. I admit to being an olde pharte as well as somewhat of a purist,-- IMHO, swapping any V8 into a nice MJ is butchering it, not preserving it. If the job is done well, it will appeal to a small number of prospective buyers. It will also instantly elininate a number of prospective buyers, because they won't be interested in an MJ that has been highly modified. (That would be me, for example.) FWIW, I have seen multiple XJs and MJs with small-block Chevy conversions, and they ALL had cooling issues. That problem has been discussed here, and some people seem to have found solutions that work for them, but just be advised that it will be something you have to address. Another concern is the amount of horsepower an LS1 puts out. The front half of an MJ is a unibody, and it wasn't designed for that much power. I think it will need to be beefed up, and that's another modification that detracts from the value of the MJ as an MJ. There's an old saying that "beauty is in the eye of the beholder." If that's what appeals to you -- it's your truck, go for it. Personally, I don't see the point and, if I encountered an LS1-powered MJ for sale, I wouldn't even answer the ad.

... don't seem to have any understanding of what "restored" means. https://maine.craigslist.org/bar/5988654090.html

X3 It all depends on what you want to accomplish. IMHO, the best donor for an '88 Comanche would be an '88 Cherokee, with the same engine and transmission, because that will provide the maximum number of replacement parts. However, if your goal is to update a Renix-era Comanche to completely new running gear and electrics, then the '98-'99 XJ is probably the best choice.

The OEM hazard flasher was not load sensitive, the standard flasher was. If the truck had a tow package, then the turn signal flasher was also the non-load sensitive type.