Eagle

^^^^ What he said.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/51588-dreaded-flickering-headlight-syndrome/

Actually, he's a top-shelf wrench, and one of only two people other than myself that I allow to work on my vehicles. That's why I was so astonished to see how he was trying to bleed the clutch.

If the fluid level in the [clutch] master cylinder isn't going down, you're not losing fluid. If you're not losing fluid but the clutch isn't working, the fluid almost has to be gradually weeping past the seals on the piston in either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. Unfortunately, I don't know of any way to effectively test to isolate which is the likely suspect. One other possibility is that air is being allowed in during the bleeding process, and then takes a few days to migrate to where it interferes with clutch operation. (And I'm not sure if this theory makes any sense.) How are you bleeding? The reason I ask -- An old friend (even older than I am, which those who know me may find hard to believe) is a retired AMC/Jeep service manager. He retired when the dealership he had worked for since he was 16 years old was sold. Many of his old customers prefer to bring their AMC cars to him rather than find somewhere else to service them. I went to visit him one day and found him under an AMC Hornet, swearing a blue streak. He was trying to bleed a clutch -- by himself. I was amazed to see a professional doing what he was doing, but there he was ... His procedure was to fill the [clutch] master cylinder, sit in the vehicle and vigorously and rapidly pump the peddle several times, then crawl under and open the bleeder for a few seconds. Then close the bleeder, and repeat the process. I told him I was pretty sure he was just foaming the brake fluid, and I asked him to try it the way my grandfather taught me. I sat in the vehicle, with him underneath. He opened the bleeder. I pushed down on the peddle -- slowly -- until it stopped, and which point I told him to close the bleeder. Then I let the peddle up, pumped it slowly about three times, let it up, and told him to open the bleeder. Repeat process maybe half a dozen times. That did it. If there's any air at all in the system, too much pumping turns a few big bubbles into a gazillion little bubbles. Over time, they reunite into big bubbles, and that's when you get a spongy peddle. At least, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

What year MJ and what engine?

Found a photo on another site showing a plug in that location. Rockfrog, do you have any idea what the thread is for the switch, so I can track down a plug for that opening?

Yeah, that's the spot. But my transfer case has never been serviced, and I didn't see any wires or connector hanging down there. My friend, the former Jeep shop tech, told me that he remembers some XJs coming in with what appeared to be a transfer case leak. He said the t-case on some models was supposed to have a rubber plug, and the factory sometimes forgot to install it. I'm wondering if that's what happened here. The FSM wiring diagram shows a transfer case mode switch, but it doesn't tell me if the switch is located on/in the transfer case, or on the linkage.

I think I destroyed the transfer case in the 2000 XJ. Recently I've started hitting the highway twice a week to go to construction sites at the far end of the state. Started hearing some unusual noises, but couldn't pin them down. I finally decided that the source might be the transfer case (Selec-Trac, NP 242). I got underneath today, and put in just over a quart of Dexron/Mercon. That's not good -- the capacity is 1.35 liters. The whole back of the transfer case seemed very dirty. While filling it, I noticed something odd -- a boss with what appears to be a tapped home, and nothing in it. See photo: The hole I'm referring to is just below the ID tag, and just to the right of and slightly above the fill plug. Looking at an older 242 t-case on a motor in the yard, there's a sensor in that location. Mine has no sensor. I believe the sensor is a 4WD indicator switch, but my dash indicator lights are working normally. I can't see how a switch like that could have backed out and fallen off the vehicle, so I'm left with the unhappy thought that the factory left something out, and we've been gradually spraying ATF out that hole since the vehicle was new in November of 1999. Unhappily, refilling the t-case didn't make the noises go away, so I think I'm probably looking at a transfer case replacement/rebuild. Grrrrrr The other thing I find interesting (and not in a good way) is that I have the 2000 XJ FSM. The illustrations of the 242 transfer case do NOT show that boss, or any hole in that vicinity other than for the speedometer drive gear....

I would be interested but you're too far away from me to make it even possible, let alone practical. Somebody wants it, though. As the saying goes, "They ain't makin' 'em like that no more."

I thought the Renix fuel gauge sender was 0 to 88 ohms. That's what my '88 factory Electrical Troubleshooting manual says.

Does anyone have a good source for Old Man Emu shocks? What should I expect to pay for a set of four?

The late model XJs have the transfer case with the sealed output shaft. This leaves a comparatively long unsupported length of output shaft. The factory realized early on that even the 1" lift of the Up Country suspension option created vibrations, and there was a tech bulletin calling for a transfer case drop to correct it. I don't think a transfer case drop is going to be enough to compensate for a 3" lift. IMHO the most economical fix is a hack-n-tap SYE.

Basic question: I know the small wiring in the factory harness restricts light output somewhat, but how can it cause flickering? In my experience, flickering headlights has been caused by the headlight switch failing.

The effect of getting the O2 sensor back in play should be improved gas mileage. Without a functioning O2 sensor, the ECU runs in open loop (warm-up) mode, which uses a pre-set fuel delivery map (which is overly rich, like running a carburetor with the choke on during warm-up) that doesn't respond to sensor input.

The first thing to check is whether or not you have power at the horn when the button is pressed. On my '88 Chief, I had power at both horns, but no sound. Removing the horns and cleaning up the ground contacts fixed it.

Stop looking. Rusty's springs have a well-earned reputation for being junk. There's a reason Hell Creek's springs cost so much more than Rusty's.

Except for posts 3, 5, 9 and 21 ...

Or not. Remember, 235/75-15 was never an OEM tire size. Whatever your truck's original size was, 235s are bigger, which means you travel a little bit farther and faster for each revolution. Your speedo might say 75 MPH, but that may not be accurate. If (and it's a bif "if") the speedo was fairly accurate for the OEM tire size, you may be rolling up to 5 MPH faster than your speedo is telling you. The advice from other posters above, to verify your actual speed with a GPS, is good advice.

Oh damn! I was off ~150 RPM. Excuuuuuuuuuuse ME! :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: The tach is probably off way more than that............ Gotcha! :banana: Actually, my comment was directed toward the OP's post that he has 29" tires.

Read my first post, down at the bottom. :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk :???: :???:

235/75-15 with 3.55 gears at 75 MPH should run at 2395 RPM in overdrive, 3195 in 3rd gear. With 3.73 gears it would be 2525 RPM, and with 4.10 gears it would be 2775. Those numbers were calculated based on the actual revolutions per mile of a 235/75-15 tire, NOT based on a theoretical calculation for a "29-inch" tire.

Do you by chance know the part number you are referring to for quieter one? I see a $35 Walker SoundFX that is #18387. Is Tru Fit the quieter one, #18113? When I look up both, they are approximately the same price at most vendors. The SoundFX is a turbo-type muffler. It fits perfectly and the quality is there, but it's louder than OEM. I ordered a SoundFX for the 2001 XJ I was fixing up for my daughter. I didn't like the tone -- too loud for this olde pharte.

The Duratracs are an off-road tire. Our XJ spends 99% of it's time on pavement. I'm looking for a good highway tire that's going to ride well, give good mileage, and not make a lot of noise. The original Wrangler Radial was the OEM tire on the XJs and MJs in the 1980s, before Jeep switched over to the SR/As or whatever they used later. I had those on the 2001 XJ I was fixing up for my daughter. Hornbrod doesn't like them, but I do. But they don't offer that tire in a 16-inch size, so I have to find something else.

I'm going to need some 16" tires for my wife's 2000 XJ. Stock size is 225/70-16. I'm trying to keep the cost down, but get decent tires out of the deal. I was leaning heavily toward a Cooper Discoverer H/T. Yesterday I was in a Wal-Mart and I spotted a Goodyear tire I've never seen before. Turns out it's a Wally World exclusive, and the price is right. Not available in 225/70-16 but it is available in 235/70-16. It's called the Wrangler Trailmark. Does anybody know anything about it?

Mechanically, it's not "advanced." It's just that it's glued in, and very difficult to cut out an old one without breaking it. It's also adding a degree of difficulty because, even if you get a used one out intact, if you don't get the mating surface absolutely clean, it will leak after you install it.