Eagle

Does anyone have a good source for Old Man Emu shocks? What should I expect to pay for a set of four?

The late model XJs have the transfer case with the sealed output shaft. This leaves a comparatively long unsupported length of output shaft. The factory realized early on that even the 1" lift of the Up Country suspension option created vibrations, and there was a tech bulletin calling for a transfer case drop to correct it. I don't think a transfer case drop is going to be enough to compensate for a 3" lift. IMHO the most economical fix is a hack-n-tap SYE.

Basic question: I know the small wiring in the factory harness restricts light output somewhat, but how can it cause flickering? In my experience, flickering headlights has been caused by the headlight switch failing.

The effect of getting the O2 sensor back in play should be improved gas mileage. Without a functioning O2 sensor, the ECU runs in open loop (warm-up) mode, which uses a pre-set fuel delivery map (which is overly rich, like running a carburetor with the choke on during warm-up) that doesn't respond to sensor input.

The first thing to check is whether or not you have power at the horn when the button is pressed. On my '88 Chief, I had power at both horns, but no sound. Removing the horns and cleaning up the ground contacts fixed it.

Stop looking. Rusty's springs have a well-earned reputation for being junk. There's a reason Hell Creek's springs cost so much more than Rusty's.

Except for posts 3, 5, 9 and 21 ...

Or not. Remember, 235/75-15 was never an OEM tire size. Whatever your truck's original size was, 235s are bigger, which means you travel a little bit farther and faster for each revolution. Your speedo might say 75 MPH, but that may not be accurate. If (and it's a bif "if") the speedo was fairly accurate for the OEM tire size, you may be rolling up to 5 MPH faster than your speedo is telling you. The advice from other posters above, to verify your actual speed with a GPS, is good advice.

Oh damn! I was off ~150 RPM. Excuuuuuuuuuuse ME! :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: The tach is probably off way more than that............ Gotcha! :banana: Actually, my comment was directed toward the OP's post that he has 29" tires.

Read my first post, down at the bottom. :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk :???: :???:

235/75-15 with 3.55 gears at 75 MPH should run at 2395 RPM in overdrive, 3195 in 3rd gear. With 3.73 gears it would be 2525 RPM, and with 4.10 gears it would be 2775. Those numbers were calculated based on the actual revolutions per mile of a 235/75-15 tire, NOT based on a theoretical calculation for a "29-inch" tire.

Do you by chance know the part number you are referring to for quieter one? I see a $35 Walker SoundFX that is #18387. Is Tru Fit the quieter one, #18113? When I look up both, they are approximately the same price at most vendors. The SoundFX is a turbo-type muffler. It fits perfectly and the quality is there, but it's louder than OEM. I ordered a SoundFX for the 2001 XJ I was fixing up for my daughter. I didn't like the tone -- too loud for this olde pharte.

The Duratracs are an off-road tire. Our XJ spends 99% of it's time on pavement. I'm looking for a good highway tire that's going to ride well, give good mileage, and not make a lot of noise. The original Wrangler Radial was the OEM tire on the XJs and MJs in the 1980s, before Jeep switched over to the SR/As or whatever they used later. I had those on the 2001 XJ I was fixing up for my daughter. Hornbrod doesn't like them, but I do. But they don't offer that tire in a 16-inch size, so I have to find something else.

I'm going to need some 16" tires for my wife's 2000 XJ. Stock size is 225/70-16. I'm trying to keep the cost down, but get decent tires out of the deal. I was leaning heavily toward a Cooper Discoverer H/T. Yesterday I was in a Wal-Mart and I spotted a Goodyear tire I've never seen before. Turns out it's a Wally World exclusive, and the price is right. Not available in 225/70-16 but it is available in 235/70-16. It's called the Wrangler Trailmark. Does anybody know anything about it?

Mechanically, it's not "advanced." It's just that it's glued in, and very difficult to cut out an old one without breaking it. It's also adding a degree of difficulty because, even if you get a used one out intact, if you don't get the mating surface absolutely clean, it will leak after you install it.

Good news. Thanks for the follow-up.

The 8.8 you have has already been converted and set up for your MJ, correct? Why would you want to go through all that again? Buy the rebuild kit, for sure.

Buy it. Convert it to an XJ floor shifter. Win.

Yeah. TJ coils give LESS lift when used in XJs and MJs. I would have guess 2" rather than 3".

Right. The aluminum wheels are 7" wide, the steels only 6", so that will limit the maximum width of the tire you can run. But you shouldn't have an issue putting 235 widths on a 6" wheel. Actually, most of the factory steel wheels are also 15x7. The absolute base wheel (the one with nine rectangular slots, as shown in post #8) were 15x6 -- everything else was 15x7.

Jeep did the same thing with the early Cherokees -- the base models came with a smaller capacity tank, to lower the curb weight and help boost the fuel economy a fraction of a MPG. The difference was an internal baffle - the tanks looked the same externally.

Your synchros aren't bad, so put those fears to rest. If the synchros were bad, you'd be hearing a symphony of scary-sounding noises when shifting, and shifts would be very harsh and "notchy." I'm pretty certain that what's happening is that the clutch isn't fully releasing. I would try bleeding it again. You could also try changing tranny juice. The factory spec for that transmission was 75-90 GL-5 gear lube, but I think the factory later backed off of that because of the sulpher compounds in GL-5 lubes. However, that's more of an issue with the AX-15 transmissions, it may not be as big an issue with the Peugeot BA 10/5. The next time I service mine, I'm going to use Pennzoil Synchromesh transmission oil. It was formulated specifically for newer transmissions like the NP3500/3550, but I've read reports that it performs favorably in the BA 10/5 as well. In my '88 Cherokee, I've also been running a molybdenum additive. It's no longer available from the source where I bought mine, but there used to be an on-line place called, (IIRC) "Mr. Moly" that should have it. Or -- go to an on-line vendor of firearms reloading components and buy micro-fine molybdenum powder and mix your own. That's what I'll be doing the next time. Moly powder is super slippery, plus it has an affinity for metals so it sort of plates the parts ir comes into contact with, and greatly reduces friction.

Does it grind shifting into 1st and 2nd? Does it pop out of gear when coasting/decelerating? If "no" to those questions, the problem likely isn't the synchros, it's probably that the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Try bleeding it again and see if that makes a difference. Also, what are you using for transmission lube? I have an '88 Cherokee 4.0L. Despite the BA 10/5's bad reputation, mine has lasted 287,000+ miles and stil shifts well. It IS hard to shift into 2nd gear, especially when cold, but otherwise it works fine. A couple of tricks I've picked up, which may or may not work for you: if it doesn't want to shift into 1st from a stop, shift into reverse and then into 1st. Going from 1st to 2nd, either "granny" shift it (like only rn it up to about 1200 RPM in 1st before shifting) or shift at exactly 2000 RPM. And don't rush the shift -- it's not a drag race transmission.

Heck, there are LOT's of Cherokees in junk yards, and it's really not all that difficult (for a body man who knows his trade) to remove the bent uniframe "ears" and inner fenders, and weld in replacements from a donor vehicle.

Be careful with General springs. Several members here have reported that their "stock" springs sit significantly higher than OEM stock ride height.