Eagle

If you still have the old springs, you could take apart both the old and new packs and swap the #2 leaf -- use the old second leaf with the new main leaf and third leaf.

I agree. Heating springs takes the temper out of the steel. It's a VERY bad idea.

The factory service manual says NOT to resurface the flywheel. If it's not badly hot-spotted, I;d use it again.

The oxygen sensor should be replaced approximately every 80,000 miles. The CPS does fail, but I don't recall there being a recommended replacement interval, and I've found that their life span varies greatly.

Be sure to post a follow-up. If those work at all in an MJ I'll be amazed.

Except that when the wheel physically locks, you have to either flip a lever (manual tranny) or shift out of Park to unlock it. How new and how tight is your serpentine belt? The symptoms you describe still sound like a power steeling box or pump issue to me.

My fuzzy recollection is that the TPS and IAC don't like to get wet.

Thank you.

No. The rear frames are totally different, as is the wheelbase.

They do -- but they're still different from MJ brackets, because the floor framing is different. You can put late-model XJ seats into an MJ, but you will have to make custom adapters to attach the seats to the MJ seat pedestals/brackets.

You are looking at a 27 year old truck that has been extensively modified by someone whose work you know nothing about. The basic rule of all Jeep people is: When they are buying, it's worth $500, tops -- when they're selling, it's worth $10,000 minimum. There's no blue book on 27-year old, extensively modified Comanches. It's worth however much you are willing to pay for it. Personally, I will never again buy a Jeep that someone else has lifted. I made that mistake once, and it cost me dearly.

However, Pete's suggestion to combine two MJ packs is the ideal way to go, because the unloaded arch of the leaves is pretty close to the same (in theory, they should be exactly the same, but ...). Since the OP already has two sets of MJ springs, there's no reason to look elsewhere. Pete is also correct that re-arching leaf springs is a short-term fix, and that it can't add load-carrying capacity. Adding leaves does increase the capacity. If it were mine, I would start with just the second pair of main leaves with the eyes cut off. Since the overload leaf in an MJ doesn't carry any weight until the suspension is basically bottomed out, we're starting with a 3-leaf spring. Adding even one leaf will increase the capacity by approximately 33%. I haven't done the home-brew AAL in an MJ (yet), but I have done two XJs. Adding just a second, cut-off main leaf raised one XJ by an inch, and the other by 1-1/4-inch. Both were sagged badly, so that basically brought the vehicles back to stock height. I would expect about the same result with an MJ.

Yes, there have been a few write-ups.

That is definitely NOT true -- as my ex-wife discovered when she parked my cherry 1968 Javelin on a hill and didn't think she needed a parking brake. The guy whose car she smashed was not amused ...

Agreed.

Affordable, and looks easy to install. But the wiring diagram doesn't make any sense -- from the diagram, the lights would be on all the time.

Yes, the factory daytime running lights just use the low beams (I think perhaps at reduced voltage, but I've never had them so I'm not sure about that). That's NOT what I want. I'm looking for a way to add LED running lights, without having to use a switch to turn them on and off.

Don, that's a great solution if you have conversion headlights, but I still use sealed beams. And your description calls for the city lights to be activated by the headlight switch. I'm looking for a way to have some LED lights come on automatically, but NOT be on when the vehicle isn't in gear. Like the way Generous Motors does their daytime running lights. But -- our transmissions and shifters don't have a switch that turns on in the Drive position, so the best I can think of is to have the lights default to ON when the ignition is on, and use the neutral safety switch to control OFF. DC -- the late wife's XJ that I'm driving these days (until I get my '88 running again) is a 2000. The '88 is a 5-speed -- that's an entirely more complicated problem to accomplish the same goal.

As I drive around in 15 to 25+ year old vehicles, I find myself looking at new cars with their LED daytime running lights with some envy -- especially on dim days and early evenings, when it's not quite time for the headlights but something to make a dark truck stand out would be nice. Mounting an inexpensive set of LED lights of some kind wouldn't be difficult, but the question is how to wire them up. I don't want them on all the time, but I also don't want to have to remember to flip a switch to activate them or turn them off. At the moment, I'm mostly driving my late wife's XJ, and that got me thinking about running the LEDs off a normally closed relay, and using the neutral safety switch to remove power from the light relay when the shifter is in neutral or park. Is this possible?

I can give you the FSM specs from the 2000 XJ FSM. These are for 134, but keep in mind the 2000 XJ system was designed for 134. I don't know how directly these numbers translate to an R-12 system that has been converted. For an ambient air temp of 90 F: Air temp at outlet: 37 to 48 degrees Inlet pressure: 38 to 47 psi Discharge pressure: 250 to 300 psi

If you're getting 55 degree air at the outlets when the outdoor temperature is 90, I'd say that's pretty good. What were you expecting?

All the same

You have more problems with that axle. The J10 trucks used 6-bolt wheels, so you'll need nw wheels, and the rear wheels won't match the front wheels. If possible, I would take it back. Trying to use it is going to be very expensive.

^^^ This. A line lock applies hydraulic pressure to the system. The system isn't designed or intended to be left under pressure for extended periods. VERY bad idea.

Length of the rod isn't the issue. The lever on the proportioning valve should be approximately level (horizontal) when the truck isn't loaded. Maybe your springs have sagged?