Eagle

You are looking at a 27 year old truck that has been extensively modified by someone whose work you know nothing about. The basic rule of all Jeep people is: When they are buying, it's worth $500, tops -- when they're selling, it's worth $10,000 minimum. There's no blue book on 27-year old, extensively modified Comanches. It's worth however much you are willing to pay for it. Personally, I will never again buy a Jeep that someone else has lifted. I made that mistake once, and it cost me dearly.

However, Pete's suggestion to combine two MJ packs is the ideal way to go, because the unloaded arch of the leaves is pretty close to the same (in theory, they should be exactly the same, but ...). Since the OP already has two sets of MJ springs, there's no reason to look elsewhere. Pete is also correct that re-arching leaf springs is a short-term fix, and that it can't add load-carrying capacity. Adding leaves does increase the capacity. If it were mine, I would start with just the second pair of main leaves with the eyes cut off. Since the overload leaf in an MJ doesn't carry any weight until the suspension is basically bottomed out, we're starting with a 3-leaf spring. Adding even one leaf will increase the capacity by approximately 33%. I haven't done the home-brew AAL in an MJ (yet), but I have done two XJs. Adding just a second, cut-off main leaf raised one XJ by an inch, and the other by 1-1/4-inch. Both were sagged badly, so that basically brought the vehicles back to stock height. I would expect about the same result with an MJ.

Yes, there have been a few write-ups.

That is definitely NOT true -- as my ex-wife discovered when she parked my cherry 1968 Javelin on a hill and didn't think she needed a parking brake. The guy whose car she smashed was not amused ...

Agreed.

Affordable, and looks easy to install. But the wiring diagram doesn't make any sense -- from the diagram, the lights would be on all the time.

Yes, the factory daytime running lights just use the low beams (I think perhaps at reduced voltage, but I've never had them so I'm not sure about that). That's NOT what I want. I'm looking for a way to add LED running lights, without having to use a switch to turn them on and off.

Don, that's a great solution if you have conversion headlights, but I still use sealed beams. And your description calls for the city lights to be activated by the headlight switch. I'm looking for a way to have some LED lights come on automatically, but NOT be on when the vehicle isn't in gear. Like the way Generous Motors does their daytime running lights. But -- our transmissions and shifters don't have a switch that turns on in the Drive position, so the best I can think of is to have the lights default to ON when the ignition is on, and use the neutral safety switch to control OFF. DC -- the late wife's XJ that I'm driving these days (until I get my '88 running again) is a 2000. The '88 is a 5-speed -- that's an entirely more complicated problem to accomplish the same goal.

As I drive around in 15 to 25+ year old vehicles, I find myself looking at new cars with their LED daytime running lights with some envy -- especially on dim days and early evenings, when it's not quite time for the headlights but something to make a dark truck stand out would be nice. Mounting an inexpensive set of LED lights of some kind wouldn't be difficult, but the question is how to wire them up. I don't want them on all the time, but I also don't want to have to remember to flip a switch to activate them or turn them off. At the moment, I'm mostly driving my late wife's XJ, and that got me thinking about running the LEDs off a normally closed relay, and using the neutral safety switch to remove power from the light relay when the shifter is in neutral or park. Is this possible?

I can give you the FSM specs from the 2000 XJ FSM. These are for 134, but keep in mind the 2000 XJ system was designed for 134. I don't know how directly these numbers translate to an R-12 system that has been converted. For an ambient air temp of 90 F: Air temp at outlet: 37 to 48 degrees Inlet pressure: 38 to 47 psi Discharge pressure: 250 to 300 psi

If you're getting 55 degree air at the outlets when the outdoor temperature is 90, I'd say that's pretty good. What were you expecting?

All the same

You have more problems with that axle. The J10 trucks used 6-bolt wheels, so you'll need nw wheels, and the rear wheels won't match the front wheels. If possible, I would take it back. Trying to use it is going to be very expensive.

^^^ This. A line lock applies hydraulic pressure to the system. The system isn't designed or intended to be left under pressure for extended periods. VERY bad idea.

Length of the rod isn't the issue. The lever on the proportioning valve should be approximately level (horizontal) when the truck isn't loaded. Maybe your springs have sagged?

Actually he is right at a 29" tire (28.9") now. right! its the 225 that's the 27/28. 225/75-15 is 28.3" diameter. 205/75-15 is 27.1" -- maybe that's what you're thinking of.

The Grand Wagoneer used 6-bolt hubs.

When mated to the 4-speed manual the 2.5L usually had 3.55 gears.

You don't have "15s." 15-inch only tells the diameter of the steel (or alloy) wheel rim, it doesn't tell the width (depth) of the rim or the size of the tire. The photo shows that you have 235/75-15s. That means it's a 15-inch wheel. The cross-section width of the tire at the widest point is 235mm (about 9.25 inches), and the height of the tire on one side of the rim is 75% of the cross-section width (235x.75 = 176mm or 6.94 inches). On factory wheels, 235/75-15 is the largest size tire you can run without the tires hitting bodywork somewhere. You have aftermarket rims, which probably move the tires farther out (away from the vehicle centerline) than factory wheels, so you may already have some interference. The largest tire size from the factory on an MJ was 225/75-15.

I understand that. But the vehicle drives so the torque converter obvious IS engaging. There's no way for it to NOT be "engaged," since there is no mechanism to "engage" or "disengage" it. And fourth gear is not disabled if the TCU doesn't work. The torque converter lock-up is disabled, but the 'D' position on the shifter is fourth gear, and you can manually shift into fourth.

The above is incorrect. The truck will drive with the torque converter not locking. The behavior described is exactly what will occur if the TCU isn't functioning, and the FSM test procedure tor TCU problems is is to pull the fuse and shift manually. Slipping is what an automatic transmission does -- the torque converter lockup is to eliminate the slippage at road speed. Do follow the advice to check the fuses. If the transmission drives the vehicle and shifts manually, it doesn't sound like a mechanical problem, it sounds like an electrical (or electronic) problem. With luck, it'll be one of the fuses. Otherwise, you may be looking for a TCU.

Good news. Thanks for the update.

I don't think it would matter if the check valve was inside the ball or inline, somewhere before, or on the outside of the ball. It's all about keeping the vacuum from bleeding out until it's needed (called upon). Yes, but if the check valve is in the line and can be grabbed from a junkyard (or reused), it makes fabbing a substitute canister much easier.

Put jack under front end. Measure from ground to bottom of flare. Jack up truck until it looks like you want it to look. Measure again to bottom of flare. Subtract first measurement from second measurement. That's the spacer you need. I seriously doubt it's 1-1/2 inches or more. My guess is about one inch.

Some years ago my brother gave me a set of Split-Fires for my '88 XJ. Worst spark plugs I ever ran. I replaced them with NGKs and never looked back.