Eagle

http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/

But the improvement in efficiency is created by slowing the flow of coolant through the radiator so there's more time for the heat to be transferred from the coolant through the tubes and fins and into the air. That's the reason the racers trimmed the impellers -- to make the system move LESS coolant at high RPMs. That's essentially what the restrictor is doing, and it seems to counteract the purpose of a high flow water pump.

Same idea as the old-time stock car racers trimming the impellers on their water pumps. Does this suggest that the high-flow water pump isn't a great investment?

Something doesn't sound right here. First, if you were spinning the crankshaft with no timing chain installed, you could bring #1 to TDC but it won't be on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke, because that's determined by the camshaft and the valves. Next, if you want #1 to be at TDC on the compression stroke (which you do), you should NOT be setting the cam gear to just before the intake valve opens. At TDC on the compression stroke, both valves are closed, and they STAY closed until the #1 piston has gone down, and is starting back up on its next stroke -- which is the exhaust stroke. Then the exhaust valve closes somewhere near TDC and the intake valve opens, so that as the piston goes down it sucks fuel/air mix into the cylinder. It sounds to me like you're setting it up for TDC on the exhaust stroke, and then setting the distributor to fire when there's no fuel or compression in the cylinder.

The resolution (and the refresh rate) were my concerns. I don't know (since right now there's only one minitor connected to the computer) whether Windows 7 allows dual monitors to be set for differing resolutions. Cable isn't a problem -- I have a bazillions cables around here, including a couple that will work. I know I have several VGA cables, and I'm pretty sure I have an HDMI cable as well. Computer is used for work (word processing, spreadsheet, etc.) light CADD (AutoCAD LT, 2-D only), and web surfing. No gaming.

I have a relatively new Dell Inspiron desktop computer with a Dell 23-inch flat screen monitor. Operating system is Windows 7 (factory install). The computer is set up to support dual monitors. The specific Dell monitor that shipped with the computer has been discontinued, and I don't feel like spending Dell's asking price for a mismatched monitor to try out dual screens. I have a flat screen television in the guest room that's the same screen size. It has both VGA and HDMI inputs. Is there any reason why I couldn't connect the spare television to the computer and run that as a second screen?

You don't need to carry a caliper to the bone yard. Do you have a set of open-end wrenches? If a 1" wrench will fit over it, it's a 24mm. If you have a 1-1/16" wrench, that will fit over a 26mm but not a 28mm. And a 1-1/8" wrench will fit over a 28mm.

But the drop brackets are designed to return the control arms to stock geometry with a 4-inch lift, so your 6-inch lift with brackets is equivalent to a 2-inch lift as far as control arms are concerned.

My guess is that it was NOT stock, but it doesn't matter. I prefer the floor shifter, especially with bucket seats.

The front park/turn light sockets are bad. The sockets aren't providing a normal path to ground, so when one filament needs to light up it uses the second filament as a ground path and back feeds the circuit. Seeing the dash indicators light up is the clue. There's a socket available in the HELP! aisle of the parts stores that's a direct fit. It's listed for a Ford, but it works in the XJs and MJs.

My '88 MJ Chief has a bench seat and mini console. (It's a 5-speed, so no question there about the floor shift.) Maybe bucket seats and a floor shift could be ordered in a Chief with automatic, but I'm more inclined to think that a previous owner made some upgrades.

Does anyone have a factory track bar -- or the bolt -- out of the vehicle and handy? Is the bolt 8mm or 10mm? My local Auto Zone has the track bar in stock so I want to check it out to see if the busing has the correct size ID.

If the fuel pump doesn't do it, possibly a failing CPS (getting heat soaked after driving?).

One other thought -- My friend in Greece also did some kind of ignition upgrade when he did the Weber carb conversion. I didn't remember what it was called, but it came back to me. Google "Nutter bypass."

I have a friend in Greece who used to own a 1984 XJ 2.5L. In fact, that's how we met -- through NAXJA. I asked him about his XJ, because I thought I remembered that he had a Weber conversion. I was right. Here's what he just e-mailed me [Note: I think by "double throttle" he means two-barrel]

I don't think a carburetor "upgrade" is dumb at all. I have an '88 MH 2.5L and I'm seriously considering getting rid of the throttle body injection and switching over to a carburetor.

Upper left / lower right

Are you sure you replaced the right flasher? If the hazards flash, it shouldn't be a grounding problem.

No e-Bay. Don't have an account.

It looks like my wife's 2000 XJ needs a new track bar. It's all stock, so I don't need an adjustable track bar -- OEM replacement is what I want. My Jeep dealer has a genuine Jeep unit -- for $225. Auto Zone has one with a lifetime warranty for $55. BUT ... Multiple reviews on the Auto Zone web site say that their track bar has too large a hole on the axle end -- 10mm, where the factory bolt is 8mm. Has anyone used a stock, OEM replacement track bar from Auto Zone? If so, was the hole on the exle end the correct size, or was it too large?

Don't forget that the 2.5L came out in 1984 in the XJ. The '84 and '85 models had carburetors and HEI distributors, no CPS or injection.

All a relay is is an electronic switch. Inserting a switch into a circuit does not, by itself, enhance the circuit in any way. In fact, it adds another device that can cause current loss. The power to the blower motor goes through a resistor pack under the dashboard. Where in the circuit are you going to place your relay, and do you intend to maintain the multiple speeds offered by the factory setup? I would try Hornbrod's ground enhancement suggestion first. Much simpler.

And just how did you do that if it doesn't start? A timing light uses a magnetic pickup on the #1 plug wire to trigger the light when the #1 plug fires. Or are you using one of the old timey lights that hook up in series with the plug wire? If the #1 cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, the spark plug will fire but the engine won't. The #1 cylinder has to be at TDC on the compression stroke when the distributor is installed and oriented. Don't ask me how I know this ...

To reiterate: Are you certain you set the #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?

You're doing it backward -- you want to be in 2nd or 3rd gear. 1st gear gives the engine mechanical advantage over the wheels. To push start, you want the wheels to have mechanical advantage over the engine. Using low range will not help, it will make things 2.47 times worse.