Eagle

^^^ What he said. If you used the CPS that was with the "new" transmission, and if that's what you bought for replacements -- it couldn't work. They are different sensors and they work on different priciples. Totally not compatible.

Should not be. Open up the harness below the fuel pump relay socket. i opened up the harness below the relay an orange wire is strip but its not touching anything is it possible something could be grounding under dash also getting ground going to the trans fuse under dash? You don't "get a ground" to anything. Ground is ground. Fuses go in power (hot) leads, not ground leads. If you "get a ground" to a fused lead, you have a short circuit that instantly blows any fuse you put in the fuse holder.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/4695-mj-to-xj-pop-valve/

Check if you are getting power to the fuel pump with the key in the RUN position. It sounds like you have be getting power with the key in START, allowing enough fuel to start the engine, then when you release the key to RUN the fuel pump is shutting down and the engine dies due to no fuel. This is common on the '88 and newer Renix models that have a ballast resistor in the fuel pump circuit -- the resistor fails, but the start circuit bypasses it. An '96 2.5L shouldn't have a fuel pump resistor, but there may be something funky about your ignition switch or wiring.

It's not a "hole," it's a threaded boss -- a blind hole. The Chrysler ECU doesn't use a knock sensor, but there's not need to plug to hole.

I used to lust after the SX/4 version. Carburetors aren't that expensive. The body appears to be solid. Go for it.

It has the factory hidden winch option.

I assume by this you mean you forced your springs out of line and installed the Cherokee axle into your Comanche as a spring-over-axle conversion, without relocating the perches. Yes, that is bad. I recommend that you not drive the truck that way. You are putting a lateral loading on the springs and the spring shackles and bushings that they were not designed or intended to handle. As PFCLeist already commented, you need to cut off the spring perches and relocate them on the axle. Was your MJ originally set up as a spring-over-axle? Why did you replace the original axle -- did it fail, or were you hoping the Cherokee axle would be a bolt-in SOA conversion?

They may have sold you the u-joints for the front drive shaft rather than for the axle shaft. You need Auto Zone part number 1-0174DL.

The easiest thing to replace in the front suspension is the shocks. There is nothing else that you should even consider working on "while [you're] under there." The shocks are easy -- everything else is work.

Or be safe and just use a nut buster. http://www.amazon.com/Nut-Splitter-Tools-2-Pc-Set/dp/B0000AX88Q%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB0000AX88Q Use anti-sieze when installing the new shocks. Of course, I said all that three years ago ...

^^^ Too true. When I first got my driver's license, my grandfather encouraged me to go out in the first snow storm, find an empty parking lot, and intentionally create skids so I could learn how to handle them. Good advice. Nothing succeeds like success -- for many years thereafter I made it a practice after the first couple of snow storms to head off to a parking lot for a skid recovery refresher. It has definitely saved my posterior more than twice.

My thoughts exactly. Back in my younger days, I was a member of the original Javelin/AMX Sports car Club. We "allowed" Javelins, but we were really all about the 2-seat AMX, which was only made for three years, and not very many of them. Sort of like the MJ, in fact. We had one guy in the club who single-handedly totaled at least half a dozen rare, 2-seat AMXs. He never ever tried to repair one, either. He'd wreck one, go out and buy another, and two or three months later he'd show up at a meeting and tell us he had wrecked another. Note: They don't make Comanches any more. Take care of them.

A potential issue with swapping to an "open" type radiator in a Renix 4.0L is that most of the new style radiators don't have a bung for the temperature sensor that controls the auxiliary fan.

30.1", actually. 265/70-16 is closer to a 31x10.50-15, at 30.6" diameter.

Yes, they are. And the latch mechanism in the female end does break, so NEVER throw away a functional seatbelt.

You may be right about that, the folks that is. Although I've never made a bad deal on CL yet. That's because you know enough not to buy a set of tires and wheels that won't fit your vehicle. There really are people out there who think that "15-inch" is the only description necessary. And then there's the aspect ratio -- that's just black magic to many people. Ask them about that and their eyes glaze over.

I'm pretty sure they changed the style of fittings in the box where the hoses connect. Don't remember what year that happened, though.

If it's an '88 with the original, closed cooling system there is no water outlet. The plastic tank on the firewall is an expansion tank, and it's not supposed to be filled more than halfway when cold. As the coolant gets hot, it expands, and the air in the plastic bottle gets compressed to allow for the expansion. Most people don't understand that and haven't read the owner's manual, so they fill it to the top, with the expected result that when the coolant gets hot it blows out around the cap. The closed systems are a PITA to "bleed" when filling. It's actually not rocket science, it just takes a bit of patiece and maybe 20 minutes of time to do it right. If the truck is clean, grab it.

Yes, but it was a 225/70-16. Note the change from 75-series to 70-series. I have a 2000 XJ Sport with 225/75-15s and my wife's 2000 XJ Classic has 225/70-16s. The tires are the same diameter -- almost exactly. 225/75-15 = 28.3" 225/70-16 = 28.4"

As CJ_Sackett already explained, if the other numbers are the same, the wheel size adds diameter. A 245/75-15 is 29.5" in diameter. A 245/75-16 is 30.5" in diameter, and a 245/75-17 should be around 31.5" in diameter. To put this in perspective, a 245/75-15 is already two sizes bigger than anything that came from the factory on an XJ or MJ. At 30.5" in diameter, a 245/75-16 is basically the same size as a 31x10.50-15, which means that a 245/75-17 is roughly the same as a 32-inch tire. I'd say that makes a difference. Going from stock tires to 31s is a difference of 10% to 11%. I've never even figured out the difference between stock and 32s -- probably 15% or more. I think that's significant.

The ECU has no idea when the valves open and close. The valves are controlled mechanically by the camshaft, there is nothing electronic about it. Is it possible that your expectations are unreasonable? An "RV" camshaft is designed for low RPM grunt pulling power, not for drag racing. It produces low-end torque, but not high end horsepower. If you're looking for sports car performance, you may have picked the wrong cam grind.

Connecticut small claims court forms: http://www.jud.ct.gov/external/super/smallclaims.htm You do not need a lawyer. In fact, for small claims court you are not allowed to use a lawyer. Everything you need to know about small claims court in Connecticut: http://www.jud.ct.gov/Search/JudSearch.aspx?col=allconn&qp1=url%3Awww.jud.ct.gov&qs1=&qc=&ws=0&qm=0&st=1&nh=20&lk=1&rf=0&oq=&rq=0&qp2=url%3Awww.jud.ct.gov&qp3=url%3Awww.jud.ct.gov&qs2=&qp=url%3Awww.jud.ct.gov&qs=&SinglePane=Y&qt=small+claims+court&Search.x=16&Search.y=4 The filing fee is $90. You can serve notice on the defendant by priority mail with delivery confirmation or by certified mail with return receipt requested.

This thread has been up for almost a week. Several people have asked what happened, and so far ... crickets. I'm glad nobody seems to have been hurt, but I'm also curious as to what happened.

I've never heard of an impound yard that would cut any deals, but you can always ask. IMHO you should sue your FORMER friend. He certainly didn't do you any favors. You won't get anything, of course, but it'll send a message. It only costs a filing fee to sue in small claims court, and I believe you can have notice of the suit delivered by registered mail. (I'm not sure about that.) More than likely he won't bother to appear at the hearing, since he's in another state, so you'll win automatically. The problem is, you'll get an award in Connecticut, and then you'll have to do something to have it enforced in New York. I don't know how that would work, and that's why you probably won't actually collect anything. The legal costs of transferring the judgment to New York could be as much as whatever you get in the award. Overall, it sounds like a hard and expensive lesson.