Eagle

"MT" means Metric Ton -- it was the heavy-duty version of the MJ, and that's why it had a D44 rather than a D35. The Trac-Lok is a clutch-type limited slip. When the clutches wear out, it then acts like an open differential. You can buy rebuild kits for around $60 to $75 (I think -- used to be $50, but I haven't followed the prices). Be sure to use friction modifier in the gear lube or you'll destroy the clutches very quickly.

Most likely the starter. They do wear out.

I received no response from Rock Auto. The return was handled through their brain-dead on-line system -- that being the system that essentially told me "We don't care if the part is actually what it's supposed to be or if it really fits your vehicle. We shipped you the part number you ordered so FOAD." (No, I didn't order the wrong part number. I checked. It's just that the part corresponding to that number doesn't happen to be the same as the part it's supposed to replace.) So, no more Rock Auto for this cowboy. I'll stick with Auto Zone and Advance Auto. At least I can talk to a store manager if there's a problem. Besides -- what kind of operation would take an order for four wiper blades, and ship two from one warehouse and two from another warehouse, thereby doubling my shipping cost? Between the extra shipping costs on the wipers plus the lost shipping and the return shipping on the struts, I would have been much better off just buying from Auto Zone.

195/75-15 (not 70) was the smallest factory tire size for the '86 XJ and MJ. Will 195/75s fit on your wheels? That depends on what you have for wheels. If you have factory Jeep base wheels, which are 6 inches wide, the 195s will fit fine. If you have 7-inch rims, 195s will go on but they are not recommended for that size rim. 195s should not be mounted on 8-inch or wider rims. Keep in mind that an inspector may not give you a pass if you have mixed tire sizes on the vehicle.

I saw one on the road a couple of days ago, saw something that looked sort of "Jeep-like" about the grille,, and had to look it up and see what it was. I guess I've been out of the loop -- who knew Fiat was building "Jeeps" these days. Does anyone know anything about them? If I needed an economical commuter heap with 4WD for winter, would a Renegade be tolerable, or would a Patriot be a better choice? I can't find fuel mileage numbers for either vehicle on Jeep's web site. Are they that ashamed of the numbers?

For many years I used a Radio Shack mini, similar to the Uniden minis that are still available. It worked fine with a short, gutter-mount steel whip antenna. The only problem was that the microphone didn't screw in, it was a 6-pin DIN push-in connector (identical to the keyboard connector on the old, original IBM PCs), and after a number of years the strain of the coiled cord pulling sideways cracked the printed circuit and that killed the radio. Now I use a bigger, better (but still quite old) Radio Shack radio that's very similar to a Cobra 25. I usually look in the CB case when I'm at a truck stop, and I think if I were buying today I'd get either a Cobra 25 or a Cobra 29.

Don't worry about being new to Comanches. Most older vehicles develop wiring gremlins (check out Chevy brake lights some time!), and it's always a guessing game to isolate the problem. Basically, if you have disconnected all the lights and it still blows the fuse when you pull the switch to the parking lights position, but doesn't blow the fuse if the switch is full on, it's not the lights and it's not the wiring between the switch and the lights. So we have to ask -- what's left? I have three '88s (two Comanches and a Cherokee), and I can't think of anything that would be on with the parking lights that would NOT be on with the headlights. Yours is a Sportruck, right? With the idiot lights instead of gauges? Do you know if it has a headlight delay module? That would not have been standard on a Sportruck (I think), but might have been an option.

How much is engaging the tail shaft? I agree with the rocket -- that looks WAY short to me.

The truck has timbrens installed and the trailer will have a weight distribution setup so hopefully that will help. These? That should help.

1/4 ton? A standard MJ has a rated payload of over 1400 pounds -- that's a 3/4 ton. The Metric Ton models are rated for a full metric ton, which is 2200 pounds.

No, that's not where the ground connection goes. That's where the positive cable attaches to the solenoid (which is mounted on the starter motor). You said it was just turning over -- how much did you crank it? A lot? Yes. I was trying to get it to start for several minutes The starter motor is the highest current draw of anything in the vehicle. That's why it has the fattest wire leading to it. You're not supposed to crank an engine for more than a few seconds, so you don't (1) run down the battery, and (2) overheat the cables and perminals. I'd say you overheated the cables and terminals. Now ... the problem is to figure out why it didn't start.

Avoiding sidewalk cracks is reputed to bring good luck (or ward off bad luck), too ...

Lift springs are made for lift and (usually) for flex, NOT for load capacity. You might need helper springs or air shocks for towing. With 32" tires, your effective axle ratio is cut back from 3.55 to 3.21. That's not much different from the stock ratio for a 5-speed. To tow that kind of weight, you need more gear. 4.10s would be about ideal. And you should add a tranny cooler and, if you don't already have one, an auxiliary fan.

No, that's not where the ground connection goes. That's where the positive cable attaches to the solenoid (which is mounted on the starter motor). You said it was just turning over -- how much did you crank it? A lot?

The pinion angle doesn't look fine. The middle portion of the coils is bowing toward the front (and the sway bar). That seems to suggest that the pinion angle is too high (too much above horizontal), resulting in the lower spring perch on the axle not being parallel to the upper perch on the body.

My bad. I thought Kano808 was looking to block off round holes for refrigerant lines. I didn't understand he wants to delete the entire fan and heater box.

Very typical, and not really that difficult to repair. But ... it does require welding to do it right.

How about electrical box knockout covers? They are available in a variety of sizes. Get 'em at Lowe's or Home Despot. Install with a bead of RTV and you should be good to go.

The only dollies I've ever seen have the front wheels of the towed vehicle strapped tightly to the dolly. There is no strain on the steering mechanism at all, because the front wheels of the towed vehicle don't (can't) turn.

Heat = friction = wear. Since the Pennzoil Synchromesh isn't recommended, I'd go with the Redline.

Are you saying you tested a stock AMC Jeep XJ/MJ coil against an aftermarket "hot" coil, or just some factory coil off whatever vehicle you happened to have a coil from? The factory Jeep ignition is an HEI system. Don't waste money trying to "improve" it.

What year Wrangler?

I thought it was time to settle this question, so I contacted the experts (HAH!) at Pennzoil to ask what to use in each of the available Jeep XJ and MJ transmissions. You all ain't a-gonna believe what they told me: In summary, they referred to obsolete information that the Jeep factory superceded many years ago. NOT helpful. Not a surprise they don't have any GL-3 products. They are, after all, gear oils. GL-3 was replaced in the marketplace by GL-4, which was in turn replaced by GL-5. So I guess the answer for the manual transmissions other than the NVG 3550 is either Redline or 10W30 motor oil (to which I would add a molybdenum disulphide additive such as Mr. Moly).

You are correct -- an XJ or MJ with the Renix ignition/injection system simply won't run with the 91+ Chrysler HO flywheel (or flex plate).

What do you mean by one-piece hub rotor assembly? The 4WD front axles always used a combination hub/bearing unit and a separate rotor -- see the parts list I posted above. The early 2WD axles used a conventional spindle that was part of the steering knuckle, and the hub and rotor were an assembly with loose, serviceable, conventional wheel bearings. Is that what you have?