Eagle

You beat me to it. Are those the ones with three locating holes? That's what I was thinking of but I didn't know who makes them.

$125 plus the price of a pair of Spyderco spacers (plus shipping).

The AMC 2.5L uses the same small bellhousing bolt pattern as the GM 2.8L and 3.4L V6s. The AX-15 bellhousing won't mate to that block. Dodge used the AX-15 behind the 2.5L for a few years in the Dakota pickup. You'll need a Dakota bellhousing to make it work.

Both are good rules. The first, especially -- many other wise people also advise never lifting more than you absolutely need to. The corollary is that the price of lifting increases exponentially with the height of the lift (in other words, twice the height costs four times as much).

How many miles on the engine? I have an '88 2.5L that runs okay, but at 209,000 miles it's pretty tired.

As noted, the shortbed tank is different from the longbed tank, so be sure to order the correct size for your chassis. New tanks may come with the locking ring (I don't remember if the new tank for my '87 did), but they won't come with a new gasket. Be sure to buy a new gasket (it's a big O-ring). In fact, buy two, because you may tear one up trying to seat the lock ring. Before buying a new tank, check carefully to be certain that the leak isn't where the two steel lines enter the fuel pump mounting flange. I made that mistake. Bought the new tank, installed it, drove to the gas station to fill up -- and saw gas running across the concrete when it got to about 3/4 full.

Disk brakes are less of an advantage when crawling trails than they are when racing. I'm not crying my eyes out at night because none of my XJs or MJs have rear disk brakes. Offsetting the possible advantage of the 8.8 having disk brakes is the fact that it's narrower than the XJ/MJ axles, so to run even stock tires on stock rims you need spacers. The XJ 8.25 is already the correct width, so just flip the perches to where you want them and you're done.

Go with the XJ axle -- IF it's an 8.25. My understanding is that the late-model XJs used the 8.25 if they did NOT have ABS, but the ABS vehicles still used the Dana 35. I've never seen an XJ with ABS up close and personal, so I can't verify that.

The problem is that the 4.0L transmission has a larger bellhousing than the 2.5L transmission, so you can't attach the '95 transmission to your engine. BUT ... When Chrysler was using the AMC 2.5L engine in Dakota pickups, they used it with the same AX-15 transmission as your '95 XJ. So what you would need to do the swap you have in mind is a bellhousing from a 2.5L Dakota. Oh, and you'll almost certainly have to have the length of your driveshaft altered.

Personally, I would rather buy a motor from a junkyard. My thinking is that someone started working on this, and then for some reason they stopped. WHY? Is it cracked? Are the cylinders scored (maybe not a problem since you would be replacing pistons anyway, but depends on how badly scored.) Are the cylinders out of round? (Again, maybe not a problem if you'll be boring for new pistons, but ... how bad?)

They could not have used a clutch for a BA 10/5. The BA 10/5 clutch pressure plate and disk are too large to fit the 4-cul flywheel and bellhousing, and the slave cylinder/throwout bearing is a larger diameter.

No. The link is to an ad for a Renix 4.0L block. To make that into a stoker, he'll still need to source a 258 crank, plus rods and pistons.

Dunno. There are subtle differences. If you have keys to an AMC-era XJ or MJ, compare the ignition key to the door key. Aside from the shape of the head, the actual key part is slightly different. I don't remember which way it works, but IIRC either the ignition key will go into the door locks but the door key won't go into the ignition -- or t'other way around. I'm not talking about operating the locks -- just putting the key into the cylinder. So they ARE different.

But they're not. The ignition cylinders are basically GM cylinders, but pre-AMC their predecessor, Hudson, used Briggs and Stratton keys, and AMC continued to use the same keyway even after the shape of the key head changed. As for cutting off at 1984, that's not correct. My 1988 Cherokee was bought new, delivered in January of 1988, and the keys are AMC keys.

Would it work? Depends on what you mean by "work." You'd be buying a block for $100. Seller says it has "supposedly" been gone through, which means somebody sprayed it with degreaser and a quick shot of ugly yellow Wal-Mart spray paint.

You've bumped an old thread. You would be best to post the specs of your MJ. The chances are that it will share driveline components with a like model XJ, and that will be the easiest way to get the needed parts to do a 4wd conversion. ^^^ In fact, thisa thread is three YEARS old. You'll get much better information if you start a new discussion with your question, and include some information about your truck.

Video doesn't play for me. What's it supposed to show?

Dino has been the "go to guy" for stroker info for at least ten years, probably closer to fifteen. It's virtually impossible to cover everything you need to know in one post or one thread. You get into permutations and combinations, such as do you use stock pistons with 258 rods, or do you use custom pistons with 4.0L rods? Do you deck the head or not? Do you enlarge the combustion chambers to correct for compression? Do you worry about quench height or not? And that's just for starters. My advice to anyone contemplating building a stroker is to allow at least six months (yes, I said "months") for research and study before even starting to firm up your plans.

Don't remember. Your lug nuts are 1/2" fine thread. See if a lug nut goes one. I woke up to snow on the ground this morning, so I won't be crawling under any Jeeps for a few more days. "Global warming" -- HAH!

Looking at Hornbrod's diagram, I forgot that the Renix fan used a fusible link. That's the wire that supplies power to the fan (not to the control/switch side of the relay). You are testing with the ignition in the RUN position, right? Do you have 12 volts on that red wire coming into the relay (terminal 30)? And I see I was wrong about the diode ...

I'm glad someone was finally able to get you the right part. I'm a bit surprised about NAPA, though. I thought NAPA bearings and such were made by Moog.

So you attached to the underside of the MJ frame rails rather than to the sides? About how much did you have to stretch the hitch?

The older fans supposedly only draw around 20 amps, so a 30-amp relay should be plenty. If you're buying a new one, though, why not go for the 40? FWIW, the fuse for the aux fan on my late wife's 2000 XJ is a 40-amp maxi-fuse.

I think you misunderstood. There is already a relay for the aux fan on the Renix XJs and MJs. I'm pretty sure there is no diode. The photo is my '88 XJ. On the inside of the fender, just behind (above, in the photo) the coolant catch bottle, there's a relay. That's the relay for the aux fan. That's the relay I had to cut out and replace in the '88 MJ. You probably don't have a catch bottle there. I added that when I dumped the factory plastic coolant bottle and converted to a Moroso aluminum surge tank.

Let's keep it very simple. First, ignore the discussions above, since they pertain to the '91 and '92 HO models. Hornbrod mentioned somewhere in there that the Renix aux fan is controlled differently. That's key information. That sensor that was supposed to thread into the tank of your radiator is nothing more than an ON-OFF switch. Below the preset temperature, the switch is open (off). When the coolant temperature in the tank reaches the preset limit, the switch closes and activates the relay, which in turn activates the fan. Since you no longer have the bung in the radiator, you don't need to maintain that sensor/switch. Don't throw it away, but remove it and set it aside. Go to Auto Zone or Advance or NAPA and buy a new connector that matches the one on that radiator sensor. Attach wires to it, plug it into the harness where you removed the radiator tank sensor, then run the two wires to a toggle switch in your cab. It doesn't matter which way you connect the wires to the toggle switch -- it's all the 12-volt power to the control ("trigger") side of the relay. Done. I got male connector that matches the female connector to the fan switch, attached new wires and ran them to a toggle switch. When I pluged the connector into the harness and flipped the toggle switch nothing happened, the fan would not come on. I thought maybe it was the fan motor but was able to jump it and it ran just fine. I recall that the fan should kick on when the A/C is turned on, when I moved the climate control knob to max A/C the fan never came on. Would these two things be tied together? Yes, they would. Check to see if you're getting 12 volts to the fan circuit side of the fan relay. When I bought my '88 MJ the aux fan didn't work at all -- which I didn't know until it overheated in stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day. When I pulled the relay to check it -- two of the terminals broke off. There was so much corrosion that the relay was junk and the relay socket couldn't be salvaged. I cut the wires off the socket and wired individual terminals to each wire (didn't have a source for a replacement socket), plugged them all in, and it worked fine.