Eagle

2 MPH faster at what speed? If the tooth count is off, the speed difference will not be the same at all speeds. In actuality, +/- 2 MPH is about as close as the factory ever came anyway. They typically set them up to read slightly fast, so that people could blame speeding tickets on a speedometer that reads slower than the actual speed.

Oil Pressure: 84 - 85 . . . . . 5300 0834 86 . . . . . . . . .5300 4550 86 - 90 . . . . . 5300 5218 91 . . . . . . . . .5602 6782 92 - 93 . . . . . 5602 6779 Coolant Temperature: 84 - 85 . . . . . J324 2662 (4-cyl) . . . . . . . . . . . 3300 1543 (6-cyl) 86 . . . . . . . . .5300 4681 (4-cyl) . . . . . . . . . . . 3300 1543 (6-cyl) 86 - 90 . . . . . 5300 5309 91 . . . . . . . . .5300 5309 92 - 93 . . . . . 5602 7012

87 thru 91 The parts manual I was looking at is the 86 - 90 manual. I didn't check, but I'd guess it was the same sensors for the 84 and 85 XJs, as well.

You're young aren't you? No, he's right. Pumping just aerates the brake juice. Some years ago I stopped by to say hello to a racing and AMX friend, who was the service manager at the Jeep deaalership when I bought my '88 Cherokee (and my '68 Javelin, for that matter). He was muttering about not being able to bleed the clutch on a Hornet he was repairing for one of the dealership's old customers. He was pumping and pumping, and then opening the bleeder -- and not getting anywhere. I had him do it the way YXMJ describes -- I worked the peddle, Joe opened and closed the bleeder when I told him to. Took about three minutes to get a clutch, maybe less. I was amazed -- Joe is a year older than I am and he had never seen it done that way. I learned from my grandfather.

The 86 thru 90 all take the same temperature sending unit, and they all take the same oil pressure sending unit. This is per the factory parts manual.

^^^ Correct. That's the old style gauge face design, used from 84 (XJs) until mid-way through the 1987 model year. Also my favorite design.

We used to have snow here in Connecticut. I hate ABS. If I could have gotten it for my daughter I think it would have been a good idea, because she couldn't figure out how to pump the peddle or apply the brakes carefully -- or steer out of a skid. For people who know how to drive? Horrible.

What year did Jeep switch back to using an external slave on the 4-cylinder XJs? I have to replace the clutch on an '88 MJ 4-banger, and I think I might try to track down a newer bellhousing so I can convert to an external slave. Don't know what years to look for.

I'm having difficulty comprehending why this might be construed as bad news ...

Not sure yet if I'm actually in the buyers' market, so I'll post here rather than in the Classifieds: My current job assignment is winding down, and the next one will involve travel to two different construction sites. One is a round trip of 150 miles (per day), the other will be a bit over 200 miles. None of the Cherokees or Comanches I have now will break 20 MPG, and even that would have to be on a good day, so I'm thinking about trying a 4-cylinder. But there aren't any available around here, and I have no idea what I might expect to pay for one in decent condition. Do any of you ever encounter 4-cylinder XJs or MJs? I'd prefer a slightly later one, with multi-port injection rather than throttle body. I know Jeep built them -- I just don't know where they all went. What are they going for, if you can find them?

Just as an example, a thread is 18.5/32" (MickeyThompson), that is 1.15", on a 35" tire it is 3.3% so if you put half worn tires on the front and brand new on the back, you will get about 1.6% diameter difference. Here I shown 0.7%, less than a half of that. That's in theory. What you are ignoring is that tire revolutions per mile aren't based on theoretical, unloaded tire dimensions. When I made up my spreadsheet for tire sizes and speeds by gear ratio, I went to various tire manufacturers' web sites and printed brochures (this was back when they still had printed brochures) and I looked up their published specs for revolutions per mile. They can be quite different from the theoretical, due to deflection of the sidewall when loaded. Example: Take a 31x10.50-15. The revolutions-per-mile I got from some manufacturer (probably BFG, but I don't remember) is 680. Theoretically, most 31x10.50s have an actual diameter (listed) closer to 30.5. That makes the circumference 30.5xpi = 95.8066", or 7.9839 feet. A mile is 5280 feet, so to travel one mile that tire would theoretically rotate 661.33 times. That's a difference of 2.8 percent between actual and theoretical. For mismatching of gear, what we can get away with is very small. Like to the second decimal place -- due to different ring gear sizes, we consider 3.54 and 3.55 to be the same, or 4.10 and 4.11. But those differences are tiny -- using 4.10, the difference is .01/4.10 = 0.24 percent. You want to run with a difference that five orders of magnitude greater. I don't think it will work. And that's ignoring the need to carry two spare tires.

I suppose it is a generational thing. It isn't the fact they shipped me a part that didn't look at all like the OEM part it was supposed to replace that upset me. Mistakes happen. What upset me was the way they blew me off after I notified them that the part wasn't correct. People of my generation don't tolerate that kind of attitude.

No, It could not be a Dana 44. It could be a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25. General rule of thumb: W/o ABS ==> Chrysler 8/25 W/ ABS ==> Dana 35

Don't waste the effort. Definitely not worth any investment whatsoever. Find a 97+ Chrysler 8.25 out of a Cherokee, or a Ford 8.8, and put a eal axle under your truck. The Dana 35 is fine for street driving and light wheeling, but once you're into a lift and large tires, it won't cut it.

Yes, I knew it was made in Italy. The notion of buying a Fiat at all wasn't one I was ready to jump into. Once I realized what a Trailhawk would cost ... not gonna happen. I'd be much happier finding a 4-cylinder XJ and rebuilding that for fuel economy, and I could do it for probably a quarter of the cost of a new Renegade. Plus not be paying property taxes on a new, $30,000 vehicle.

I would go with setting the shocks to run at mid-length at normal ride height. YMMV. But what does the shock length have to do with welding on the spring perches? The spring perches should be set to give you the correct pinion angle at normal ride height.

Rear shocks are not the same, and if you will be welding your own shock mounts to the axle when you swap it to the MJ, then the only frame of reference you'll have will be your own measurements. Stock XJ rear shocks, fully extended, are about one inch too short to go into a stock-height MJ. (And, of course, the upper mounts are different -- open eye on the MJ, bar pin on the XJ.) I must have missed something -- what axle is under the XJ? Yes, I saw that it's a 1999 -- but not all 1999 XJs had Chrysler axles.

An old saying, well known to my generation: "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me." Once is enough. Sending me an incorrect part is something I could accept as being luck of the draw. Telling me it must be correct because the maker of the part says that's the correct part number, without making ANY effort whatsoever to investigate the problem, is NOT something I'm willing to accept. That's a shoddy way to conduct a business.

If you're not going to replace the springs, then the springs don't affect how much lift you get by going SOA. It's typically about 5-1/2", but the 8.8 has larger tubes than the D35 so figure around 6" as a ballpark. How to calculate:

I'm confused. Where are you advertising it? How are you asking people to contact you in the ad? If you listed an e-mail address, and people e-mail you and you don't respond ... I'd say they figure either the truck has been sold, or YOU'RE a scammer. I know if I respond to an ad and the seller doesn't get back to me, I'm sure as hell not going to waste my time sending more messages or making more phone calls. Same for phone calls. So you listed a telephone number, trying to sell a truck most likely to someone you don't know (because if someone you already know wanted to buy it, it would be sold), but you won't answer phone calls? And I won't do a TXT MSG for something like a vehicle purchase. Too much money involved for a TXT MSG. Communication implies a two-way exchange. How can you possibly even begin to determine if someone is a scammer if you won't even respond to their contacts? I'd say you don't really want to sell you're truck, because you're doing everyrthing possible to ensure that nobody who might be interested will ever see it.

None of the factory sizes on the XJs and MJs were 70-series, they were all 75-series. And the 70 vs. 75 does make a difference. {Edit}Correction: I think the Briarwood XJ might have had 70-series tires for a year or two. And my wife's 2000 XJ Classic has 70-series 16" tires, 225/70-16 that are exactly the same size as a 225/75-15.{/edit} A 225/70-15 is nominally 27.4" in diameter. To match that, it falls between a 205/75-15 (27.10" diameter) and a 215/75-15 (27.7" diameter). But I would not expect an inspector to be that knowledgeable about tires and tire sizes. I would expect that he's going to want to see four tires of the same size, because the vehicle came from the factory with four tires of the same size. Dunno how tight money is for you. Last autumn I picked up a set of five Kumho ATs, with about 50% to 60% tread remaining, already mounted on Jeep rims, for $200 from Craigslist. You can often get really good prices on used tires from junkyards.

Basically, a very long time ago (even before Al Gore invented the Internet, and that was before he invented global warming), JC Whitney stopped linking catalog numbers to specific applications. The catalog number only gets you to a part by brand and type, and when you order they take care of matching it to your specific vehicle based on the information you provide. It made it extremely difficult to orders parts for multiple vehicles in one order. With the advent of the Internet, they likewise gave up on showing what the part you would be getting for your application looks like. Want to order a trailer hitch? They show you a picture of "A" trailer hitch. It might be the hitch for a Ford Explorer or a Chevy 1500 pickup, but that's the only photo you get to see. It's stupid, stupid system. I started buying stuff from JC Whitney when I first got my drivers license, in 1960. These days, I just can't be bothered trying to deal with them. Between Auto Zone and Advance Auto for routine stuff and Summit Racing for other things, JC Whitney just doesn't offer anything I can't live without.

There was no factory hitch for the MJs. Not listed in the Jeep parts manuals, they only show hitches for the Cherokee. And I don't think Jeep ever "approved" a Draw-Tite hitch. FWIW, every hitch I've seen for the MJ mounts to the same locations as the factory bumper brackets.

Most MJs with a manual transmission don't have this. Jeep didn't start using it until a couple of years after Chrysler took over.

I don't think you can roll start an automatic.