Axeminister
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ANSWER: FREE FREE FREE I had these bolts strips on me, just too soft and seized from age. I took it to my local TCAT school(vocational/technical school) where they teach machine tool technology. They can put a metric or standard on it and its done by a precision machine that makes it a perfectly machined head that will fit a size or two down. They then dipped it in a hardener to firm the metal back up so it wouldnt strip again. If you strip these bolts you cannot(maybe rarely) get them conventionally(internet, parts stores, dealership). Not all is lost, find a machine shop or trade school and they will either fix the head or make a new bolt. In my case: don't let them get ahead of themselves and make a brand new bolt before trying to fix the head, they are students and eager but a new head is the way that fixed me up and it took under 24 hours. If they do need to make an new bolt the sizes above are correct M12x1.25x35mm, grade 10.9 If anyone does not have access to a facility of this type PM me and ill be glad to help by mail or other. -Axe
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it is 7MM, but do not buy a 7mm adapter from walmart(stanley in particular), they will break off before turning that pin, i did it twice because i thought maybe the first time i was just being a meat hand. Also be sure if you buy an allen key ring to make sure it has the right size, the one that was hanging out in my garage only went to 6mm which was frustrating. Go to auto zone if your pins are real stuck and by a good 4-5 dollar adapter thats well made
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Ill invest in the multimeter this weekend. Here is the latest. The wiring for the rear end comes up under the driver side seat and around to a connector above/near the emergency brake. I disconnected the connector and tested each one for power, in hopes to find the break was happening after that connector or before. On the fuse box side i am only getting two wires showing light, the blue and tan, which are directly beside each other. I'm guessing this is the brakes and hazards? My fuse box shows power to the socket and my fuse is fresh, but power isnt making it to the first connector. Does this help explain anything further?
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Ill check the rear connector. I used the voltage checker light and there is no power at the connector in the cab near the fuse box or in the lines at the rear...fuse box shows there is power going to the lines and at least two show power but the rest are dark from the fuse box to the light. Could a break or faulty connector at the rear cause power in the front coming from the fuse box to also break?
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Ill check the trailer lights. I replaced the bulbs myself with dual filament, so those should be good
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Hey guys i have an 87 MJ and the tail lights and one brake light are out. I have read the write ups elsewhere on the forums regarding this problem but i would like to lay out everything ive done and see where i can go from here. I'm a full time state employee and a full time student at the University of Tennessee. I'm getting pulled over regularly and its a drain on everything i do, so help would be appreciated and if your in the knoxville area i would readily pay for assistance. Tail lights out: The tail lights stopped working which led me to replace the headlight switch, fix 3 bad connections, and rewire the ground in the driver side taillight. All of this resulted in the taillights working for about 2 miles then caput. I retraced those steps and no luck. I have tested the wires in the headlight switch harness and all show power. I have tested the fuse connector and they show power. The power coming from the fuse is dead for all rear lights except one brake light and the hazards which are on another fuse. I have checked the fuse box for moisture from a leaking master cylinder and all checks out. Interior dash lights work, headlights and blinkers work. All other electricals work. I have been detailed as i can be and have done a bunch of due diligence on this forum and my own time investigating but I'm at my very wits end and i have no idea where to go from here. PLEASE HELP
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Comanche broke down-help!
Axeminister replied to Axeminister's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
my plan is to take the starter off tomorrow and get it tested, then consider ignition switches and such if that is a dead end. i roll started it so as for the engine ground being bad...would the engine not start if it wasnt grounded? -
So i fixed the short!! I have tail lights and dash lights!!! it ended up being a bad ground even though the ground looked fine......made a new hole and connector and it worked......sorta after fixing it i installed a new radio and had to splice it for lack on an adapter......now the tail lights are out but the dash lights and fuse are still good. ive read somewhere that the tail lights somehow run through the radio?? i did have three wires left over from the over adapter i just taped off......do one of those need to be powered? or is all this crazy talk and they are unrelated?
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Hey guys, went in to a gas station to get a coke and come out and she won't start. All lights and buzzing comes on but does not even try to turn over..... This happened a few weeks ago but it was just a screwy wire going to the starter relay, cleaned off the corrosion and boom, she fired right up. This time no such luck.....i have already replaced the relay and hooked it up exactly how it was on the old one and checked every fuse on the box with a meter. I got it push started and its home but she is dead in my driveway. The next thing I'm doing is taking the starter off and getting it tested. Does anyone have an alternative idea or experienced this before?
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hey guys, i took my comanche to work today and it drove like the champ it is, and on my break did just fine running to the store.....i come back and work the rest of my shift and its dead when i go to leave. The lights and radio work fine and battery test came back good. There is no attempt to crank, its like I'm not even turning the key..... HELP, its stuck in a parking lot!!
