Eagle

Gimmick.

Ummm ... WHAT CB radio are you asking about?

What was your method for removing the window without damaging the gasket?

A friend of mine had the same issue. After gluing the window back in, he, too, was left with the open channel surrounding it. My suggestion was to cut a piece of plastic (like maybe an expired credit card) into a scraper with the profile of the gasket, then just go around the window with back sealant and use the scraper to form the sealant into the shape of the gasket. But ... he sold the truck before we had a chance to try it, so I don't know how successful it would have been.

You do realize that both of those links are for universal tachometers that use a magnetic pickup (the reference to "Hall sensor") rather than picking up a signal from the ignition system ... right? It means you would have to mount some kind of bracket, probably near the crank pulley/vibration damper, for the sensor to "read" the rotational speed of the engine. Hijacking. Is there decent analog display tachs like this? Like what? This thread seems to be about digital tachometers. What analog tach are you asking about?

What empty spaces under the radio? The video link doesn't work for me. "404 Not Found" You do realize that both of those links are for universal tachometers that use a magnetic pickup (the reference to "Hall sensor") rather than picking up a signal from the ignition system ... right? It means you would have to mount some kind of bracket, probably near the crank pulley/vibration damper, for the sensor to "read" the rotational speed of the engine.

Yep - I can't count how many tune-ups I've done using Filko points and condenser sets.

Wasn't there a write-up a year or so ago by someone who had refurbished his taillights? Did you check the DIY discussion area?

Send them back.

Bob Salemi's Pro Stock Comanche is a Renix ... http://comancheclub.com/topic/17726-drag-comanche/

Hoo, boy. Getting old ain't for sissies. This was the summer I was going to clean up the yard, paint the house, and get at least one of the MJs back on the road. Update: Not gonna happen. Last Wednesday (the 15th) I felt poorly after lunch and left work early. Still felt badly the next day. Called the doctor around noon, they said to to the emergency room. The emergency room confirmed my suspicion -- gall stone attack -- and admitted me. Since then I've been through two laparoscopic procedures to install drains and clean out the gall stones. I just got released this afternoon, but it's only temporary. I'm wearing one of those external drainage bags, and I'll have to back in six weeks to have the gall bladder removed. Meanwhile, I'm not allowed to lift more than fifteen pounds while the drain is in place. Not a happy camper ...

Agreed

I don't use anyone's calculator. I made my own spreadsheet, using actual revolutions-per-mile data from the tire manufacturers. With all (un)due modesty, I think it's the most accurate RPM to speed chart available. There's a sticky post somewhere here with a link to it on-line.

31" tires and 4.10 gears should only turn 3020 RPM at 65 MPH with an AX-4. Tell us more about this 2.5L stroker. I'd be very interested in a stroked 4-cylinder but, unlike the 4.0L, there aren't any other versions of the engine around that had different displacements and cranks with longer throws. How did you stroke it?

I don't think 1" of steering wheel movement is excessive for a recirculating ball steering setup.

2700 RPM @ 70 MPH is not overrevving it. The 2.5L engine is a development based on the AMC 199/232/258 cubic inch I-6 that dates back to 1964. That was before most cars had overdrive, so top gear was almost always 1:1 ratio. The typical gearing and tire sizes used by AMC resulted in a ratio of 24 MPH per 1000 RPM -- and I owned several of them, so I know this from my own, personal experience. If you do the math from that, 60 MPH was exactly 2500 RPM, and 3000 RPM was 72 MPH. With gearing like that, my 1966 Rambler American got 28 MPG on the highway. The engines lasted forever. The one we know the most about was my brother's 1970 Gremlin. He ran it to about 250,000 miles, then he sold it to an auto parts store that used it for delivering parts. It was well over 300,000 miles before we lost track of it.

I wonder what happened to the original poster. He hasn't been back to the forum since posting the question.

Tire size? I'm running 215/75-15's. Pretty small tires. There's a good reason the factory used 3.55 gears with the 4-speed and 4.10s with the 5-speed. I have an '88 2.5L 4-speed on stock tires, and there's no way I would describe it as "peppy." If I get energetic, I have intentions of converting it to a 5-speed and swapping the rear axle for one that's set up with 3.73 gears and a Traclok, but I regard it as an experiment. I fully expect that the 5th gear will be useless at anything slower than Interstate cruising speeds. In 5th gear on 215/75-15s, if you have stock 4.10 gears, 70 MPH should be 2700 RPM, not 3200.

Remember Morganstern's theory of relativity: "Everything is relative."

But 1 inch of steering wheel movement before the tires start to turn really isn't very much -- and I don't understand what jacking up the front does for checking the steering. It's best done with the tires firmly on the ground, with as much resistance to turning as possible. I think a lot of people today are accustomed to driving newer vehicles with rack-and-pinion steering, and they don't understand that the older, recirculating ball steering like in the MJ can never be as tight as rack-and-pinion.

At this point, since you're not even willing to join the strokers' forum, my advice would be not to throw anything away for now. About the only thing you can be certain you won't be using is the pistons.

What if you DON'T lift the front wheels off the ground? If you just park and turn the ignition key to OFF but not locked, how much free rotation is there in the steering wheel before you can see the front tires start to move?

That part probably doesn't exist. It was specific to the Comanche, not used in the Cherokees, and for that reason it's highly unlikely that any of the aftermarket body panel makers/vendors will have it. When my friend replaced the driver's floor in his MJ he used a spot weld remover to cut out and preserve the original part from his truck so he could reuse it after welding in the new floor. What happened to yours? Was it so badly deteriorated that there was nothing left, or did it get destroyed cutting out the bad floor?

J0181613

And I thought we were friends ...