Eagle

He's got some expensive parts in it. As much as I don't like to say it, it probably IS worth what he's asking ... to somebody. Personally, I'm only interested in stock MJs, so I wouldn't even consider that one. For me to buy it, I'd have to factor in how much it would cost me to return it to stock ... which might not be possible if the rear fenders are cut out beneath those flares. Beautiful truck, though.

Why would you want slower steering? Personally, I want faster. (But ... I don't do any rock crawling these days.)

So would I. Ummm ... where the heck is Nunavut?

Anybody running Firefox? There's a new add-on that by-passes Photobucket's "third party hosting" block. A friend sent me the link, I installed it, and it seems to work transparently. https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/fir...d-fix/?src=api

This doesn't make sense. To reduce slop in the steering box, the over-center adjustment screw is turned in, not out. If you have slop when it's turned in as far as it will go, then it's time for a replacement steering box.

Why is starting in neutral and drive a problem? The whole concept of making it impossible to start in gear was a knee-jerk reaction to stupid people doing stupid things. Personally, I would be very happy to see the starter work when the transmission is in gear. For a variety of reasons.

Is the fuel filter clogged?

If we weren't still here ... would it matter if your bills were paid?

Looks like my link didn't bring the comparison through. The two I was comparing were the Duralast Gold DGC477C (ceramic) versus the Duralast Gold Max DGC 477M (semi-metallic). I was leaning toward giving the ceramics a try this time. The old pads are one of the two cheaper ones, but they all carry a limited lifetime warranty. I wonder if they'll let me upgrade for the difference in prive ...

Are you certain that you used the correct bearings? Was the crank machined as part of the rebuild? If so, was it turned to .010 or .020 undersized? And did you buy bearings to match the undersize?

Are we referring to Goatman, from NAXJA? I noticed several other Jeep and AMC vehicles in the lineup, too.

Since I replaced the front brake pads on my late wife's 2000 Cherokee Classic, the pads have been dusting very badly. Like, a week of normal driving leaves the front wheels almost black. With the factory pads, they didn't get as black in two or three years of driving. Mercifully, the replacement pads are themselves getting close to needing to be replaced. Looking to step up the game a bit. I wouldn't mind an improvement in braking, but I don't speed or tailgate, so the braking isn't an issue. But I would like to get something that's going to run cleaner. Looking at two upgrade options fro Auto Zone. Any comments or experience with either of these? http://www.autozone.com/productComparisons/productComparison.jsp

So does the tranny from the WJ have a sender for the speedo, or not?

That is good infor. I'd like to know where it's from, because my 1988 factory electrical manual doesn't have those charts in it. All these years I've thought the temperature gauge ran on the same 0 - 88 ohm range that the fuel gauge and oil pressure use. Live and learn!

Correct. The rear load sensing proportioning valve actually doesn't have any idea how much load you have, it adjusts based on the change in ride height. This is why Monroe doesn't list a Load-Leveler (coil-over) shock for the rear of the MJ. They have some that will fit, but the added load capacity of the coil-over shock reduces how much the bed drops, which means the height sensing valve won't increase the rear braking enough to compensate for the added load. The same applies to helper springs, air shocks, air bags, etc.

What rubber seal? THe XJ and MJ windshield is glued in. 97+ XJ window seals are rubber. Like stated above the glued in one's break pretty much every time. The 97+ XJ windshields can be removed without breaking the glass but it ruins the rubber seal. I didn't see a year on the donor so I guess when I read it I assumed it was a 97+ donor. No, they aren't. That rubber gasket is just trim, it's not the seal. The seal is still the urethane bead that the glass gets set into.

What rubber seal? THe XJ and MJ windshield is glued in.

Anti-seize is good. Just remember that anti-seize qualifies as a thread lubricant, so reduce specified torque by approximately 20 percent.

Get a Prius then. :rotfl2: Can I fit 33s and full-size axles under a Prius?

Unless they're Patriots, or Compasses, or Grand Cherokees, or Fiats. It's even difficult to think of the current Wrangler as a Jeep, when the front axle needs hundreds of dollars worth of reinforcing just to be able to mount bigger tires and go off-road.

For the 1987, the range is 0 to 88 ohms. I believe 0 is cold and 88 is hot. I don't remember if the FSM provides values for points in between. Out of curiosity, how are you reading 100 degrees on the gauge? The scale is not linear, and I don't think there's an enumerated point for 100 degrees.

Of course it was a factory setup. The two bolts for holding the license plate are still there, just below the light.

Finding 3.54 gears for a Dana 44 is a walk in the park. EVERYONE has gears for the Dana 44.

No, I have not. I have noticed that after closing my browser, and re-opening it, and opening the bookmark to this page, I need to log in again. I have not noticed this behavior on other sites that I visit. That happens to me on my notebook, but not on my desktop computer. Both Windows 7, both running Firefox browser. There's a reason why we call them thangs "confusers."

The transfer case will work, but I share the advice to swap both your axles to get a better ratio. XJ axles out of any 4.0L automatic should be 3.54 ratio, which is a lot more civilized than 3.07.